99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Ali i think if he selects 5bar it will work till he gets the car tune , because my old map from 3 years ago was made for a 5 bar, and now i am on a 3bar and all i did was just select gm 3bar and she fired right up.

Just make sure the map sensor is not faulty and your Tps is also working properly !

My map sensor was reading 15psi with the key turned ON, put another GM 3bar and i was good to go.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

So i go back to the shop to do some troubleshooting with quicksc4 on the phone and now im not able to get connected to the aem using a serial to usb. Getting the good old "parity error" from aempro... so im thinking instead of spending hours to make it work with the serial to usb cable, im going to track down an old laptop with a serrial port on it and have that as the "tuning laptop".

Until than ill report back with an update with whats going on with the MAP sensor.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Thats what I used to do, I had an old p3 500mhz stone age laptop that had one of those ports, it actually worked pretty well for it because I went on amazon and bought a new battery for it, which nowadays is like 5 times as strong as they used to be, battery would last for like 5 hours which I though was pretty amazing.

I only ever found 1 cable out of like 10 that didn't give me that error.. lol.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

So what do you think of this?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

looks like the diagram to wire up those 1ZZ coils. looks good, everything looks like it goes where it should

*EDIT* The IGT and IGF is wrong, the 6 IGT's and 1 IGF from the coils should go straight to the ecu which has 6 IGT pins and 1 IGF pin (see my diagram on page 1)
you can't really use the stock ignitor in the mix, I am guessing you are trying to get the tach to work.
I may know of an easier method, Tap into the IGF signal for the tach and see if it works before trying to do all the second ignitor stuff.

nasc300

Just remove the IGF, IGF and +B pin of the stock ignitor, connect each coil to the corresponding wire remove from the ignitor and ad a ground for each coil. Thats it, correct?

So will the tach work? What do you do with the tach wire off the stock ignitor?

And not that you would want to, but if you were to wire up these coils as above using the GE ecu wouldn't it work?
Then again I have a buddy who is perfectly happy with is NA-T using a GE ECU with Map ECU and would just like to get rid of the dizzy.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

You don't remove, you leave it plugged into the ignitor, then your tap the wires like an AFC install.

You won't see any GE ECU love in here, but technically all 6 coils are fired by just one IGT signal, as they are all wired in parallel to fire in batch mode.

Either way the distributor is the Cam/crank sensor so it has to stay in there.

nasc300

Sounds good it should work the same for the GE ECU then, of course you would remove the GE ignition coil.

Because the 1ZZ coils only use 1 IGT signal is why when using the GTE ECU there would be no need to all 6 IGT's together, correct?

This seems like a very good option when going with the GTE ECU and is quickly reversible, as no extra wires need to be placed between the ecu and VVTI/TT ignitor, it simply "piggybacks" on the stock harness.

How effective is batch firing? Seems like a lot of extra work for the coils when not actually needed. Will this cause a problem at high rpm or boost? I do realize that the GE coil fires just as many times but its a much bigger more robust coil designed for the task.

For my JDM NA-T all I would have to do is: install 440cc injectors (with resistor pack if needed) tie the cam and crank grounds together, replace the GE map sensor with the GTE map sensor, unplug the GE coil and Piggyback the 1ZZ coils. Nice

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

That's the idea!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

wait a sec spoolxexo i think there is a problem with that diagram. you cant fire all the coils in batch that would be a really bad idea. you just run those 6 IGT's to their respective spot on the gte ecu, which has IGT1-6.
you cannot use the stock ignitor to deal out the spark to the 6 coils, because its actually the distributor that sends the spark to the right coil. bypassing the dizzy, you are firing all 6 coils 6 times, which is a really bad idea.

you can't really use the stock ignitor in the mix, I am guessing you are trying to get the tach to work.
I may know of an easier method, Tap into the IGF signal for the tach and see if it works before trying to do all the second ignitor stuff.
some piggybacks splice into IGF for RPM so in theory the IGF and tach signals are very very similar, and may drive the tach just fine.

I though that little box was the ecu and not the ge ignitor, I should have looked closer, do not start your car like that seriously.

nasc300

OK so noway this can work with the GE ecu. Makes sense now. thx

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah there is no way to run coilpacks with the GE ecu, with the ge ecu you are limited to 1 coil.
The TT ecu has 6 coil outputs, so you can run 6 coils, 3 coils in wastespark, and the stock coil w/distributor if you tie the outputs of the 3 channel or 6 channel ignitor together but the stock coil setup is still untested and I am not sure how reliable it is yet to tie the outputs but a member seems to have had some success so it is possible.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

This is a 4 -cyl Toyota ECU with a Distributor. It's because of the sequential fuel injection why you can do this.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

That is from A few Australian forums, So I only assume.

But yeah, wire all 6 in would be the best way.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

You wouldn't want to go that route on a turbo vehicle. firing on the exhaust stroke is one thing but if you get combustion on any of the other ones it would be bad. with turbo cars there is usually times where there is increased fuel delivery and at high rpm's.. asking for trouble.