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Mark's Engineering has a couple pics on his Facebook page I think.
Hsokhi - hopefully I'm not overstepping my bounds here, but here is the pic he send me of his.
and he said he can do logos for extra $$ as well
They look real nice. But really a plasti-dipped Home Depot one would probably look fine and cost hardly anything.
Hey halon,
Dawhorl and I are working together. Basically in the machining world, making one off parts is very expensive due to set up and design costs. The product dawhorl is selling is the one that I designed programmed and machined. Dawhorl buys in bulk and is able to sell to the community at a reasonable cost whereas if someone wanted just one and I didn't have the machine already set up, it would be way more expensive.
Would this clear a 4 or 5" turbo inlet? I am contemplating using the stock distributor or a 7m CPS. And that is my other question, do you make a billet cover for a 7m CPS?
The stock distributor cap without the leads on it almost clears, so basically anything shorter than that will clear just fine, should even clear a 5" intake just fine looks like.
Sounds good! I am looking at doing a MS3 pro with LQ9 coilpacks, and either a borg warner S367 or S364 FMW. Definitely interested in picking one of these up.
my wires for the supra ignitor are different colors from your sc300, but I assume that they are the same from 1-5 right?
second question,
I CAN NOT for the life of me get the coils to "click" into place.. i push the coil all the way down but i can effortlessly pick it up with two fingers. Do I need some bracket to hold the 3 coils in the spark plugs? Is the coil suction cup suppose to even "click" in? The wires coming off the coils are great and click in great in the spark plugs.
and third question is, is this https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...COPDiagram.png the exact way to wire it up in the AEM? The reason I ask is because i keep reading people say they are running such and such wire to the aem box? i thought we were supposed to run the wire to the ecu connector and pin it in the appropriate location then just connect the aem box and its done.
Mine suction in place pretty firmly. I dont recall it clicking in, just pushing them on solidly and the suction is quite strong and holds them in place. I bought new boots so that may also be why they are nice and snug. No brackets for me.
I have just completed this mod, turned on the coils as directed and retarded the map by 14 degrees, but the AEM won't let me change the ignition tooth 01 setting from 22.00 to 21.53, it will not save?
Mine suction in place pretty firmly. I dont recall it clicking in, just pushing them on solidly and the suction is quite strong and holds them in place. I bought new boots so that may also be why they are nice and snug. No brackets for me.
just changed my boots to some brand new ones and jesus the suction is ridiculous!
I will be attempting this mod soon in my 2JZGE swap. I hope to have all of this set up "QWIKLY". I was thinking of running a trigger wheel but this seems to be smoother way to go. Do you guys think that this is more accurate than using a trigger wheel on the crank?
my wires for the supra ignitor are different colors from your sc300, but I assume that they are the same from 1-5 right?
second question,
I CAN NOT for the life of me get the coils to "click" into place.. i push the coil all the way down but i can effortlessly pick it up with two fingers. Do I need some bracket to hold the 3 coils in the spark plugs? Is the coil suction cup suppose to even "click" in? The wires coming off the coils are great and click in great in the spark plugs.
and third question is, is this https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...COPDiagram.png the exact way to wire it up in the AEM? The reason I ask is because i keep reading people say they are running such and such wire to the aem box? i thought we were supposed to run the wire to the ecu connector and pin it in the appropriate location then just connect the aem box and its done.
The cups will suction into place, no clicking. the diagram is the exact way to wire it up. even though it shows it going into the aem box, its actually just going into the ecu connector, like all the other ecu pins. the numbers are on those ecu connector A is the smaller one 40 pin, and B is the larger connector 80 pin. so you in it into the appropriate place and plug in the aem box and yes done if you did it right =)
Originally Posted by QWIKSTRIKE
I will be attempting this mod soon in my 2JZGE swap. I hope to have all of this set up "QWIKLY". I was thinking of running a trigger wheel but this seems to be smoother way to go. Do you guys think that this is more accurate than using a trigger wheel on the crank?
Its accurate enough to use the distributor but to answer your question, No, it is inherently less accurate than a crank trigger wheel (on the crank) because any cam/belt driven crank sensor will have some play in the slack of the timing belt and usually results in swings of 1-3 degrees at the extreme end. Now it turns out the 1-3 degree difference doesn't really matter as long as you do not tune directly on the edge of what the motor can take and there is no problem, people have gotten lots of power out of these setups.
Generally you hit a sweet spot of timing in tuning where more timing leads to peak power, and then past that more timing will make you loose power, and then detonate. so when they tune to peak power and then back off a few degrees, you are basically just fine and always in the range you want to be even with a cam driven distributor crank sensor. Its that accurate all the way to redline so no need to worry about it.
You can also install a 96+ ge oil pump and tt crank trigger wheel and use that for the crank sensor and install a cam trigger on the head or use a gte head. One could also use the distributor for just the cam signals, then it would be like a gte with crank signal on crank and cam triggers off the cams/belt but only instead of actuall cam trigger it would come from the distributor.
Its really not worth it to do all that the stock distributor works so well I would never bother unless I had a gte head and the motor was out of the car to install the oil pump. otherwise its a total pain to improve on it and it works just fine.
Originally Posted by David2009
I worked out how to make the settings changes save and the engine will run, but it's not happy.
It sounds like it's running on 5 cylinders yet it's definitely firing on 6.
Coils 1, 2, 3 & 6, 7, 8 are turned on and I've retarded the timing map by 14.1 degrees.
Here's a video of engine and pic of the settings.
Could someone please confirm these are correct or not?
I have also swapped from a resistor pack to an AEM injector driver, could that be causing this?
Set coil 1 to 21.53. save, motor should sound funny now. Then resync your timing via the software and timing light as it will be off again. Verify the values for the 5 other coils are correct, they are normally in the base cal. mot should sound good again.
You set your crank and cam sensors to falling edge, motor will sound funny again, Then resync your timing via the software and timing light, as it will be off. motor should sound good again.
why do you even have a resistor pack, are you using low impedance injectors? if you are using high impedance injectors take it off. I don't know about the aem driver at all, probably replaces it.
probably you didn't make the falling edge correction, you have to do both and resync timing after both or doing all the changes.
read this thread and the 2 links inside. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-settings.html
The cups will suction into place, no clicking. the diagram is the exact way to wire it up. even though it shows it going into the aem box, its actually just going into the ecu connector, like all the other ecu pins. the numbers are on those ecu connector A is the smaller one 40 pin, and B is the larger connector 80 pin. so you in it into the appropriate place and plug in the aem box and yes done if you did it right =)
Its accurate enough to use the distributor but to answer your question, No, it is inherently less accurate than a crank trigger wheel (on the crank) because any cam/belt driven crank sensor will have some play in the slack of the timing belt and usually results in swings of 1-3 degrees at the extreme end. Now it turns out the 1-3 degree difference doesn't really matter as long as you do not tune directly on the edge of what the motor can take and there is no problem, people have gotten lots of power out of these setups.
Generally you hit a sweet spot of timing in tuning where more timing leads to peak power, and then past that more timing will make you loose power, and then detonate. so when they tune to peak power and then back off a few degrees, you are basically just fine and always in the range you want to be even with a cam driven distributor crank sensor. Its that accurate all the way to redline so no need to worry about it.
You can also install a 96+ ge oil pump and tt crank trigger wheel and use that for the crank sensor and install a cam trigger on the head or use a gte head. One could also use the distributor for just the cam signals, then it would be like a gte with crank signal on crank and cam triggers off the cams/belt but only instead of actuall cam trigger it would come from the distributor.
Its really not worth it to do all that the stock distributor works so well I would never bother unless I had a gte head and the motor was out of the car to install the oil pump. otherwise its a total pain to improve on it and it works just fine.
Set coil 1 to 21.53. save, motor should sound funny now. Then resync your timing via the software and timing light as it will be off again. Verify the values for the 5 other coils are correct, they are normally in the base cal. mot should sound good again.
You set your crank and cam sensors to falling edge, motor will sound funny again, Then resync your timing via the software and timing light, as it will be off. motor should sound good again.
why do you even have a resistor pack, are you using low impedance injectors? if you are using high impedance injectors take it off. I don't know about the aem driver at all, probably replaces it.
probably you didn't make the falling edge correction, you have to do both and resync timing after both or doing all the changes.
read this thread and the 2 links inside. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-settings.html
04-05-14, 03:38 PM
