Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the mustang tps does not have a IDL circuit, the stock ecu will not be completely happy, I would not run one.
I would only run the toyota or nissan tps which the IDL circuit can also be connected, stock ecu looks for this signal and will have a wierd tip in and decel fuel cut among other small things without it working properly.

what piggyback would I recommend for you starting out on the tt ecu mod?
None, get it working with normal size injectors like 440-525 like you have first and then upgrade from there.

when you install all that stuff and then the 725's and then your piggyback and then you ask me which part isn't working right, I will tell you to go check all your wiring and all the extra stuff you did, cause most likely , you wont get it started right away.

The stock ecu's get more difficult the larger the injectors you run. get it running first on normal size injectors before moving up or you won't know what part to check when it doesn't start.

the ecu's look for high impedance which you have right now, so keep those injectors and get it started first.
AFTER THAT AND IT RUNS, then install the piggyback and larger injectors or I won't help troubleshoot, seriously I am not trying to be mean but everyone wants to go with completely custom versions of the mod and ask me why it doesn't work and its really a bit old. please do your research and start out the mod simple and then build from there.

you only need the resistor pack if you have low impedance injectors, the resisitor pack makes the lows into high impedances. but since you have them on your na-t already they are high impedance or have the resistorpack so you don;t have to change that at all. both ecu;s ge and gte look for high impedance.

subeone

you're a big meanie now i have to source a fricking MAF for the GTE

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

HAHA you might think I am a meanie now but if you follow my advice when your car starts and runs you will probably be happy, and then when you upgrade to all that stuff and it doesn't start and run right at first you might actually want to thank me for saving you from having to troubleshoot literally everything you did at once instead of just a small part of it cause you knew it was working before =)

you know that when using like the map ecu and emanage and stuff it needs to be tuned right?
the whole simplicity of having an ecu that just works goes out cause you wont know if its the tune or the wiring for the piggyback or your ignitor wiring or your coil wiring, all of which is easily solved by doing it in 2 steps.
If you have to do the larger inejctors and use a piggyback that will work more easily maybe try a vpc with the right chip, or maybe the map ecu basemaps are really good and don't need tuning, but I don't really know every combination and don't want to guess at what works really but people have run those setups in the past so it is possible, but realize its much more complicated. so unless you really plan on using that extra 200cc then its not really worth it to do it all at once unless you are super confident in your wiring skills.

judging by the track record of usdm installs so far I would say you should stay on the safe side, but its your call.

oh and you don't want a upper gte plenum welded to the lower gte plenum, it doesn't match up right just cause its welded doesn't make it better.
the only thing you should never mess with is the air entering smoothly into the lower runners, the gte runners do not match up that well and you will have different mixtures in 2 of the cylinders. if you run rich enough you may survive a long time that way, but if not its an easy way to detonate and destroy a 2jzge.
just thought you might want to know before anything happens.

going FFIM is a little complicated you have to pick your throttle body according to your ecu setup.
but I want to say they make an adapter for a toyota tps on a mustang throttle body now, just search.
if you can get an adapter I always opt for using the toyota tps and for the q45 the stock GE tps will work just fine with the adapter.

subeone

lol yea i understand why you are telling me to do it. So I can troubleshoot if its the COP setup or the piggyback setup . I do know i have to tune the car, i have already tuned it with map ecu once but couldn't control timing so it was not that great. I tune GM vehicles via Hptuners so its no problem for when it comes to tuning basics. And in regards to the welded upper GTE plenum to the bottom GE runners the ports have been matched so I doubt there will be any uneven distributions...

can the USDM GTE start the car if i have the map sensor but not the MAF sensor? or does it work in conjunction? I am used to GM as they can be converted to speed density by eliminating the maf and using the stock map sensor. Thanks again ali

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I would have to see that plenum cause every one I have seen does not match up properly even when removing material to match it. again I was just letting you know that its a generally accepted bad idea, it was hardly a good idea when it used to be more common and people won't want to admit to you they blew their motor over it, It is possible you will have better results, if you do then please share them, but most reliable way is aftermarket FFIM or gte head and crank gear setup.

if you are used to the wiring and stuff you can try and go for it all at once and then you wont have to get the maf, but getting the maf at first is not a bad idea. I want to say all you need is the maf sensor to start the car on USDM ecu and drive it, the map sensor on the US models is not for fueling it is for controlling the sequential turbo operation and wastegates (not important for single turbo) and all that stuff, and for boost cut. you will get a check engine light without the map sensor, but it should drive and probably even boost as that is all off the maf sensor, not sure if it will be in complete closed loop or not with that CEL on but that is something I was gonna play around with if I use a usdm gte ecu on another build.

no if you unplug the maf you won't be able to start the car unless you have a map ecu or the vpc simulating the signal, but then that requires tuning. If you know you can wire it up confidently enough to pull it off then go for it, but TT maf's arent that bad to get a hold of and shouldn't have a problem selling it later.

subeone

damn, its that bad? (in regards to the ffim) its port matched and the transition is smooth from the lower runners but even if its port matched it will risk engine damage? jesus.. gona have to sell it now ****

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If it is matched as well as you describe then maybe it would be fine for certain power levels but I haven't seen many good examples of it at all. I don't know how bad it is in general or yours could be but not alot of people do that conversion anymore, there are more and more options for FFIM's online or the custom route with the aluminum D plenum and choose a throttle body flange. I would choose a bolt on type of FFIM, or get a bolt on type welded on to the lower runners, or the stock intake because the stock intake gives extra torque down low.

subeone

Thank you Ali I have decided to keep it and use it, I forgot to ask, when using the tt throttle body do I need to change the tps wiring for the Gte tps or is it the same thing? Do I need to change any coolant lines or can I just plug them? Cheers!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

coolant lines on TB plug them but you will also have to plug the lines coming off the water pump and going back in on the passenger side by the firewall, basically the 2 lines that run to the stock throttle body.
you could just keep the coolant lines and run them through the GTE throttle body also, up to you.
on the gte its run from the hose on drivers side by waterpump, to throttle body, to the IACV (cause its seperate on a gte), and then to the passenger side by the firewall where that pipe is, but I wouldn't hook up all that, I would bypass it completely or just hook up the throttle body just to keep from deleting the lines/plugging them.

GTE TPS yes if you are using your GE harness then the wires are reversed. its in my other tt ecu mod thread somewhere but yes you have to flip the wires around on your connector to use the GTE tps, so instead of pins 1-4, you will arrange them from 4-1

subeone

very straightforward thank you this keeps getting better and better!

subeone

Ali Sc3 got a question,

i bought a jdm 6 speed ECU obd1 (screw the MAF)

will it work if i have a jdm or usdm map sensor?

subeone

there's an 1100 series aem v1 being sold for 600 in my city, can it work if i do the tt ecu mod, i have both a usdm and jsm 2jzgte ecu. don't know if ill need the 1101 instead...

cheers

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

usdm and jdm 2jzgte map sensors are interchangeable, so are 3sgte map sensors and 1jzgte map sensors.

both the 1100 and 1101 will work on na-t or a gte, you just have to upload the right map.
If you get an 1100 aem v1 that is a standalone so it will work with whatever setup you have just have to put in the right settings. it can work with vvti coils and a ds62 ignitor I had my aem v1 set up that way for a long time. you will not need the tt ecu if you get the aem v1 as the aem replaces the factory ecu.

drifterx27

iTrader: (1)

Tons of good info in here. I have to convert my car, my HKS DLI seems to be acting up. LQ9's are in my future.

psimatthew

can i use the supra maf sensor instead of wiring in the iat and map sensor?

thanks in advance