B1TEM3

Old member here, I have 92 sc300 stock 2jz-ge, 5speed w58, 140000 mile with bad head gasket (its blown). So, since I have no time wreching this thing myself. I was quoted for $1000US to get this car running again. Here I am asking input, is it a bad price? should I install the 2jz-gte gasket and ARP head studs while at it (which means lowering the compresion, I know) thinking of going NA-T in the future here.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I would be kind of skeptical on the pricing up front because the head could be warped or cracked.

I might get a quote for just removing the head, then either take the head to a machine shop to be checked or have the shop do it, if you trust them.

You don't want them to just replace the gasket without checking the head. The block deck need's to be checked for straightness as well.

While the head is off you might think about replacing the stem seals, and have the exhaust valves checked.

Also, if going na-t I would definitely install arp's & the 2jzgte head gasket at this time..but I would also have the head completely redone while it's off. The valves can be checked and may not need to be replaced.

Good time to do the timing belt, water pumpand any seals you can get to.

Just get the complete engine gasket set for the GTE, comes with everything you need.

B1TEM3

thank you for the heads up, the timing belt, water pump, oil pump, clutch fans, serpentine, radiator, rad caps, distributor caps, are all new. TB and manifold are very clean.

no cracked block or head, car is running, it just running bad. Typical white smoke. Initially I had bad idle issue, which rpm going up and down between 750 to 2000 ish rpm, and shaking like no tomorrow on low RPM, it wasnt the idle control valve or sticking TB (its shiny clean, as I dont have EGR anymore). It was diagnosed in the past, it probably was slight head gasket seeping issue (it ate coolant). One Friday, the car was loosing pressure on the coolant side faster and had bad radiator cap, so replacing radiator cap did not fix it. I replaced the whole radiator and the cap. Now coolant is holding the pressure fine but I think this caused the head gasket issue worsen. The 1000 deal was quoted from a reputable shop, include compression check as well.
How much is a typical machine shop would charge for re decking the head? and check exhaust and stem seals?

Do you require to deck the block too (aside just the head)? I heard the tolerances is 0.03 which doesnt leave a lot of room to machine.

I would like to explore my option with 1000 budget, should i fix this engine? or should I get different engine?

fastgsr95

If that includes ur parts thats a steal. Im doing my head gasket on mine and it is alotta damn work thats for sure. Im hoping to finish it in the next couple of weeks

good2go

iTrader: (6)

Have you done a compression test? Just curious, because there have been a number of people here recently who thought they had a blown HG, but it turned out to be a fuel related issue (too rich).

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

put the gte headgasket and arp headstuds on while you are in there.
unless you want to have to redo it all when you go na-t (trust me you don't)

I wouldn't even bother fixing the head or doing the headgasket if the head is warped or requires any machining. just get another ge and move on (they are cheap and readily available). in fact dropping another ge in would be cheaper than rebuilding yours back to stock spec. the only reason to rebuild at all would be to upgrade, so its up to you really.

B1TEM3

I am scouring for rebuild ge head here is WA, so far no luck. fastgsr95, the new timing belt, serpentine, waterpump, radiator, rad cap those are already on the car, the blown head gasket issue was recent. So the 1000 is just to rebuild the head and change head gasket and making the car running again.

good2go, good advice there, the shop charge 150-200 for compression check, so perhaps local part store have a tools I can rent for much cheaper? like autozone or baxter. I may need to call around.

if I have ARP headbolt and gte gasket, without turbo, would it ran lousy?

good2go

iTrader: (6)

AutoZone (in Cali) has them; you just pay a "deposit" to take them out, and it's refunded 100% when you return it. I don't want to give you false hopes, but it's sure nice to be able to verify a HG before you pay for a mechanic and machining.

Is there a fuel smell associated with the white exhaust cloud by any chance? (If it's rich enough to put out white smoke, you should DEFINITELY be able to tell. It's NOT subtle.)



I've never run an unboosted SC with a TT gasket (lowered compression), so I can't say for sure, but my guess is it should run ok; just without as much punch. Kinda like an old tired engine that's lost it's compression, but still runs. IDK if that's "lousy" in your estimation or not, but it should work ok otherwise. Maybe consider whether or not it would benefit from a set of hotter plugs in that situation.

norcal2jz

i have 1995 SC300 5spd 2jz-ge blew my head gasket and ported the head and put the tt gaskets on with arp head studs.car runs fine even mpg have increased slightly in my guess.
my plans in future are to buy another 2jz-ge and just take the already ported head off my current one and slap into my new engine.

meangreen1

iTrader: (13)

Is your car blowing white exhaust? Or does the oil look like a milkshake? These are tale, tale signs of a blown HG.

B1TEM3

reviving my own thread ..lol

The SC was still garaged and not yet repaired, and I warm up the car every 3 days. I was side tracked with other priorities ...

Now that I have more time Im planning to rent the compression test tools as originally planned very very soon.

On the other hand I am also sending my speedo to OLT for a white with light blue needle upgrade.

meangreen: the car does puff white exhaust smoke. The oil does not look like a milkshake, however the engine over heat very easily, even when the radiator has full coolant (and no trapped air bubble, I use MacTools radiator funnel). Thermostat, waterpump, radiator, and the cap are new replaced.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

ive never been in your situation but im quite sure if i was I would lean towards just buyia whole new engine to replace the one u have.

To pay a thousand dollars for this head gasket only to find theres others issues later on or you could of bought a 1jz for $1500 would make me think twice.

Good luck though

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I just went through something similar. I was fortunate to have the resources to do the job myself, but it took about 4 work days and 25 hours to finish. You'll need two people otherwise you'll get frustrated.

I went to a auto repair shop and they quoted me about $1,500 and the engine speciality shop said $75 for a head check/test/cleaning.

It sound like you do't have the time to do it yourself or do a 1JZ swap on your own. I don't know how complicated the 1JZ swap is and it's probably much more esxpensive. If you just want to get the car running, take it to the shop you know, take the head to a dedicated engine shop and pay the $1,000.

Cornhusker

Hey there B1Item1, I'm new to this site and am wondering if you check it occasionally. Did you end up replacing your head gasket or swapping the motor in your 95' SC300? I noticed the original post is from 2010 but curious how long people track these threads... I'm considering installing a new Head Gasket or doing an JDM engine swap in my "new" 93 GS 300 and could use some advice. Dave in Woodinville, WA