1uzfe4147

Hello, seems like all the posts that are about crankshaft pulley/bolt are on different models. Even if they have the 1uz, some things are still different like the part where i could shiv a thick drill bit in the flexplate. Seems like the spot where i could be able too do that on the Sc400 is different then on the LS400. Jacked up the Sc400, got under tried too find the spot where i would be able to take off the 2 12mm bolts holding up a small shield to reveal the spot where i can shiv something inside, but its not like that at all. Anyone happen to have a link or picture on where and what id have to do to get the flexplate too be visible? I need to stop the crankshaft pulley from moving while i remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.

Gspec

Use a breaker bar and socket....then bump the stater to break the bolt loose.

1uzfe4147

problem with that is i need a way 2 keep the shaft from moving, which would also be for putting it back on. so as far the tools i have and the way i can the flexplate lockup sounds like the best way. Anyone care to help a little on this matter?

good2go

iTrader: (6)

I see people saying to use this method a lot. Personally, I'm not a fan as I think it's potentially unsafe, but I am curious how people who advocate using this method expect to be able to retighten the bolt to the correct torque spec? Do you guys all have precision calibrated starter motors and super fast fingers to let off the key when it's torqued to spec?
It has just always seemed short sighted to me.


To the op, I haven't tried holding the flex plate method on a 1uz, but it's pretty easy to make a special tool to hold the crank damper so you can do it all right there in the front of the engine.

1uzfe4147

Yea id love to make my own, because i am quite good at that sort of thing. But i am in no way of being able to come up with a welder. and i definitely don't want to spend 100 bucks and another week or waiting for the specific tool made for it. but you are correct.... i suppose i will have to somehow make a tool that i can use 2 hold that dam thing. Another idea someone suggested and it worked for them was the Grip Wrench idea? i really want to try this but no place carries them.... and like i said i cant really wait a week for it too get here.

good2go

iTrader: (6)

Are you saying you don't have this access :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/landar/...7622883357340/


As far as having a welder, I just found a muffler shop and paid the guy $5 to cut out the bigger hole for the socket. I've seen numerous variations on homemade tools; they all accomplish the same thing so specifics aren't really important. Here's a link to a thread with mine:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...lley-bolt.html

1uzfe4147

Funny you say that, the first part of your post, if you go 2 the link, i commented on that pic with the flywheellock. except that picture is not off of a sc400. they might have the same engine but the flywheel area is different and that specific pic doesn't show what i see. And i like the tool you made, now i just have to find a solid steel bar like that and i would be set.

good2go

iTrader: (6)

Also, if you do use the flex plate method, be sure and keep whatever you are using to stop the flex plate at right angles with the plane of the flex plate. Some people have bent the plate by just slipping a tool in at any angle and hoping the wedging friction will hold it. Eventually it will, but the flex plate may become distorted in the process.

good2go

iTrader: (6)

Hmm...I thought that was excerpted from this 1uz tutorial. Must have been for an LS rather than an SC

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=61372

I've seen the tools made with just a long, flat sheet of metal (3/16) or a regular piece of angle iron (90 degree). The one I made is fairly overkill, I just had that channel piece available already.

1uzfe4147

thank you for that link, if i need more help i will just post there. Thanks again

1uzfe4147

and damn i just realized that is for a LS400, he used the idea with the flywheel lock i wanted too use. but it doesn't work the same for the SC. i am going to go ahead and make my own tool, i found some steel i am pretty sure that will work. thanks again

Gspec

I use a strap wrench and a torque wrench for installation, but that's not what he asked. And good luck breaking it loose using a strap wrench to hold it. Couldn't tell you how many times at the shop I've resorted to this method when unable to get an impact gun on the crank bolt. 10+ years as a mechanic and never had it fail...thanks for the sarcasm though.

1uzfe4147

Ok so i made the tool! But now i get the issue where in order for the tool 2 have the pulley stay in place the pulley will not be on the 0. If i were too loosen the bolt how would i get it too all line back up? Or then would i have to go through and redo the timing? ( which i do not know how too do )

1uzfe4147

Yea.. for some retarded reason no auto parts place carriers a strap wrench. and i am not going to wait a week in the mail too order one off online somewhere. Unless my auto parts store's have retarded salesmen....

good2go

iTrader: (6)

The pulley is keyed, all you need to do is crack the bolt loose and then rotate the pulley back where you want it, and THEN pull the pulley off. Are you changing the timing belt? I didn't see where you even said exactly why you were removing the pulley.




Ok I can see that and I'm sorry if I offended you there, I didn't intend for it to be directed at you personally. But it is a real question that I see a lot of people overlook in the rush to just "crack that damned overtightened bolt". Makes me wonder how many SC's there are out there with either serverely over/under-tightened crank bolts after the typical DIY job.

All that being said, I am quite frankly surprised that after being a mechanic for 10+ years, you are still using (professionally) a second rate method of loosening the bolts...and I'm NOT being sarcastic there.