mtnrat

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I started the install today. Since I was taking the tranny out to get the balance of my flywheel and pressure plate checked. I figured I would have lots of time as I have to send the parts out for balancing.
I can now take the tranny out in an hour. Practice makes perfect I guess.
All I did today was remove the cats and will go in a little deeper tomorrow. Cats were not too bad with the tranny gone. A little penetrating oil, a snipe to get the nuts loose, and a ratcheting box end wrench for the harder to get nuts, and that went well. Looks pretty tight in there though. Good thing I am not too large as I am doing the job with the car on jack stands.

fazy_uk

im very interested in how well this goes, as I will be looking to do the same pretty soon.

good luck!

LEXXIUM

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Keep us updated, I'm very interested in pics if possible
Thanks!

mtnrat

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Been at it for 2 hours. Got the passenger side out without dropping the subframe or removing the motor mount. Drivers side looks like a different story. Removed the two rear bolts and the O2 sensor. 7/8" box end wrench works great for removing the sensors. The plug fits through the wrench and you can get a good grip. Got the heat shield unbolted, but cannot remove because the lack of room. It seems if the steering shaft is put out of the way I would be able to remove it and see a little better. I don't think that is possible, so I am going to take out the drivers side motor mount. I think I have every shape and size of 14mm wrench and that has helped me get into tight places.

mtnrat

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Well, ended up dropping the drivers side front subframe that attaches to the lower control arm. I only loosened the two 17mm nuts about 1/4". Just enough so I could get the motor mount out. That top motor mount nut was tough, but with an assortment of shapes and lengths of 17mm wrenches I got it out. I then lifted the engine by putting a piece if 2x6 between a floor jack and the oil pan. That allowed me to origami out the heat shield. The nuts and studs holding the manifold were not too bad, but again every combo of 14mm wrenches and sockets were used. Man a super short slightly offset 14mm combination wrench was invaluable, especially with the install. Remember to take out the dipstick. Took me about another 1hr and 15 min to get the manifold out. Installation was tricky, but hung the gasket on the studs and then put the header on the studs. The headers would not go on till I dropped the engine a little, (put the motor mount back loosely at this point). At this point I was only able to get a couple of the front nuts on, as the exhaust pipe flange was hitting the body. I then slowly let the engine down on the mount whilst putting on the nuts as I could. Then the time consuming tightening of the nuts.
The O2 sensor plug is attached to the engine with a bolt. This needs to be removed so the plugs will meet. Add another 1 hr 30 min to put the drivers side header in.
Note to self: Remember to put the dipstick tube back.
Well so far so good. Tomorrow I will put in the passenger side. Looks WAY easier.

gstracer

deff would like to see some pics an hear how the rest goes good stuff man!!

masagsxr

Yeah.. Post pix please..... There was also a DIY about this that you might want to check. Might give you some tips that you don't already know about.

mtnrat

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I will take a couple of pics. I haven't been able to finish because I only had one exhaust manifold gasket. I assumed they came in pairs. One is on its way via courier. Closest dealer is 3 hours away. I should have it soon and will finish the job. A couple of comments is that it is a finicky job, but not that difficult. If you have 5 spd swap, removing the tranny is easy and gives a ton more room. Since you have already done the job, second time around is a piece of cake. The biggest leap of faith is loosening the bolts on the front subframe and removing the motor mount. The rest is just patience getting to the exhaust manifold studs. Skinny arms are an asset.
Yea the DIY was done by KC95SC400. Has pics and was a great help.

mr2tosc4

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Subscribed. Just waiting for the r154 adaptor plate from Quantum to be available, hopefully I can tackle all this by early spring.

spdrcr771

iTrader: (21)

I did my S&S & this is one B och of a job. I had to lift the motor for the driver side too. There is still a couple of nuts hard to get tightened down just cause of the pipe position & angle with the motor in the car. Maybe the IMF are easier. Let us know how the passenger side goes w/the EGR pipe. VVT-i doesnt have EGR, 1+.

mtnrat

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Since I have the transmission out the egr is a snap. I just removed it completely and will reinstall by bolting to the header, then the intake, then bolt the middle brace.

mtnrat

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Finished it off today. Another 2 hrs 30 min. So It took a total of about 10 hrs 30 min which includes R&R the transmission. Here are some pics over a few posts.
Here is the drivers side subframe that I dropped about 1/4" just enough to get the motor mount out.

mtnrat

iTrader: (1)

Some pics of the drivers side:

mtnrat

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Used 5/16" bolts cut off to make studs for the EGR.

mtnrat

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Here is the passenger side. Way more room on this side. The second pic is the finished product. And last but not least the most helpful tool to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts.