Rear main seal leak fixed for $6 vs $2300
08-18-10, 08:57 AM
#21
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Agreed. If it swells the worn rear main seal to the point of sealing, does that mean that it OVER-swells all the other working and un-worn seals to the point of being too tight and developing leaks??!!?
08-18-10, 10:06 AM
#22
I don't know man. For the labor and parts of a rear main seal, you
might as well get another engine. Lower mileage 2JZGE's are all over the place
these days for cheap. I've been calculating all of my required & very recent future engine maintenance (timing belt/WP, rear main seal, etc) and it's really
adding up.
might as well get another engine. Lower mileage 2JZGE's are all over the place
these days for cheap. I've been calculating all of my required & very recent future engine maintenance (timing belt/WP, rear main seal, etc) and it's really
adding up.
08-18-10, 10:24 AM
#23
I would never use additives to fix a problem; some have already mentioned, all it does is swells up seals to slow the leak. If you check your oil level often, I would say don't worry about the RMS until you actually have to pull the tranny for service and then replace the seal. I've seen a lot of rear main leaks, don't ever remember seeing one going completely bad.
08-18-10, 10:56 AM
#24
I don't know man. For the labor and parts of a rear main seal, you
might as well get another engine. Lower mileage 2JZGE's are all over the place
these days for cheap. I've been calculating all of my required & very recent future engine maintenance (timing belt/WP, rear main seal, etc) and it's really
adding up.
might as well get another engine. Lower mileage 2JZGE's are all over the place
these days for cheap. I've been calculating all of my required & very recent future engine maintenance (timing belt/WP, rear main seal, etc) and it's really
adding up.
. Same here. Mine has leaked ever since I've had it and I know it has leaked previously. I would say at least 2 years now. The leak has slowed, not sure what I did. All I've done is change the oil and filter every 3000.
I would never use additives to fix a problem; some have already mentioned, all it does is swells up seals to slow the leak. If you check your oil level often, I would say don't worry about the RMS until you actually have to pull the tranny for service and then replace the seal. I've seen a lot of rear main leaks, don't ever remember seeing one going completely bad.
I would never use additives to fix a problem; some have already mentioned, all it does is swells up seals to slow the leak. If you check your oil level often, I would say don't worry about the RMS until you actually have to pull the tranny for service and then replace the seal. I've seen a lot of rear main leaks, don't ever remember seeing one going completely bad.
08-18-10, 11:16 AM
#25
I've had mine about a year and a half. The rear main seal is part of the engine. Honestly, I would just wait if you plan on swapping over to the 154. I thought about replacing my RMS when I first got the car but knew I was going to be swapping over some things over the next few years and just left it alone. Just monitor your oil level and add to it if needed.
Last edited by SChema; 08-18-10 at 01:00 PM.
08-18-10, 12:55 PM
#26
I've had mine about a year and a half. The rear main seal is part the engine. Honestly, I would just wait if you plan on swapping over the the154. I thought about replacing my RMS when I first got the car but knew I was going to be swapping over some things over the next few years and just left it alone. Just monitor your oil level and add to it if needed.
if you were to fix it now, it would be around 5 hours (or more) of work. (and you still would need to swap the trans, later.
08-18-10, 02:00 PM
#27
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Yeah, some rlly hilarious replies near the start.
The mechanic said it was leaking in at least one other place too, and either he couldn't tell or it didn't matter in comparison to the RMS leak. And the bottle's fine print basically says it fixes most oil leaks, but specifically formulated for the RMS.
From the actual advice and people not accusing me of trolling*, sounds like the thing to do is keep checking the oil, especially if i smell it burning all the time again, and wait until I need a trans swap/rebuild before getting the RMS replaced. The other leak is hopefully something easy like a valve cover gasket, but thats wishful thinking cuz i think the mechanic said it was something lower down.
*Whats with all the trolling s***? did this place recently get hacked & owned or something, or are internet forums just finally at the point now where nobody can ever be taken seriously anywhere, ever again?
The mechanic said it was leaking in at least one other place too, and either he couldn't tell or it didn't matter in comparison to the RMS leak. And the bottle's fine print basically says it fixes most oil leaks, but specifically formulated for the RMS.
From the actual advice and people not accusing me of trolling*, sounds like the thing to do is keep checking the oil, especially if i smell it burning all the time again, and wait until I need a trans swap/rebuild before getting the RMS replaced. The other leak is hopefully something easy like a valve cover gasket, but thats wishful thinking cuz i think the mechanic said it was something lower down.
*Whats with all the trolling s***? did this place recently get hacked & owned or something, or are internet forums just finally at the point now where nobody can ever be taken seriously anywhere, ever again?
Last edited by PanicUnit; 08-18-10 at 02:05 PM.
08-18-10, 02:04 PM
#28
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Now I just gotta get my pass. window to work again and my car will be in great shape... I think I tried searching for a thread already but didn't find a good one. Gonna just browse old threads when I get more time, but if anyone remembers a recent topic about diagnosing & repairing pwr windows (for 95 sc300) I'd appreciate a link! I'm alot more DIY capable with electrical issues than mechanical.
Last edited by PanicUnit; 08-18-10 at 02:14 PM.
08-18-10, 02:06 PM
#29
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95% of them members never see because we have some smart automated spam tools both for signup and for validation that you're a "real person" not a bot.
The other 5% the moderator team catches, or I see suspicious stuff in their member profile at signup and do a pre-emptive ban or our fine members report the spam posts.
I didn't think you were a spammer because you didn't give a link to purchase (as well as your profile info, IP info, etc). But betcha I checked you out and with good reason
Last edited by DaveGS4; 08-18-10 at 02:09 PM.
08-18-10, 02:07 PM
#30
and this will solve hyper blink, and slow/sluggish blinkers:
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or mabey the inside of your engine needs to be cleaned...?
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Point is, some additives are like the "performance chips" on ebay that are nothing more than a scam. Yes some may work, for a little while, but they are simply temporary bandaids. Do it right, do it once..
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=6
or mabey the inside of your engine needs to be cleaned...?
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=7
or the ultimate, one and only go fast part:
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=28
Point is, some additives are like the "performance chips" on ebay that are nothing more than a scam. Yes some may work, for a little while, but they are simply temporary bandaids. Do it right, do it once..