Supra510

Ok, pulled the codes and they are 14,15,(both ignition) and 41 (TPS). Based on Klaus' results, I guess I'll go with new coil packs, but check the ignition fuse first per Chin's success. Anyone know where the ignition fuse is? In the footwell area I assume as it's not under in the engine fuse box.

Klaus

iTrader: (1)

Don't buy new aftermarket coils though- I would recommend picking up a set from a local yard that has a return policy. Hook them up and see if it works. While you're there pick up a set of igniters to try those too. If none of those works, it's then quite possible you have an ECU issue. But there are only 3 very simple systems that can actually trigger code 14 and 15- coil, igniter, ecu. Off chance, it's your wiring harness.

Supra510

Ok, so I replaced both coils with no results. Weird thing I tried is starting the car and keeping the key turned all the way. The car will run normally.

Obviously I can't drive it that way as it's raping the starter and I have to have a hand on the key, but it runs normally so I don't think its the igniters (where are they anyway?).

ECU? Maybe just the connection? Who knows, wish the coils would have worked.

Klaus

iTrader: (1)

Well the starter mechanical keeps the engine running, sort of forces it. But your ECU actually keeps it running. This could very well be a bad ECU- did your pick your coils up from a yard? See if that same yard has an ECU and try it out, it's super simple to replace. BTW that lower coil is kind of a ***** to replace isn't it? haha

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

guys im really sorry to see your going through this.

i just went through the same thing and i almost gavce up hope for a while.

my car died on the road...wouldnt start---than it would start and die again later on..so on and so forth.

code 41 at first..replaced it nothing----than code 12------than code 13---

lexus dealer couldnt figure it out---3-4 mechanics couldnt--tried swapping ecu---battery-tps nothing..

turned out i had a loose plug on my cam sensor---

---please check the fittings on your sensors and anything else you can guys.

i really hope u get this problem fixed in a timely fashion..

i know how frustrating it can be

good luck

Supra510

Update--So I had the ECU rebuilt. They said they found issues in it when I called, so I had high hopes waiting for it. Installed it and....no go. Still starts then stops. Still will continue running (I can even rev it up) when I keep the ignition switch in the start postition. Very frustrating. I will pull codes again to see if the ignition code as gone away.

I will check the connections on the sensors as noted above. If it's still spitting out the ignition code I will go with the ignitors.

Really sucks that the codes only get us so far.

Supra510

Pulled the codes again and it's 14 and 15 still. No 41 for TPS as before, possible I was misreading that code. I've looked for the ignitors but failed. Can anyone point me to where it's located?

ming15237

iTrader: (3)

Send me an email and I will send you over all of the information we have in our archives with relation to similar problems on this vehicle. wolfer15237@comcast.net

Supra510

It runs!! Pulled off the left front wheel as I was going to check the main battery ground . Looked up in the wheel well (yes, car is lowered) and the small black/orange wire was broken from rubbing. Soldered a new wire. Voila'

I thought it might be the wiring after I did some more reading. The car would keep running with the key in the start position with the starter whirring away you could even rev it. After researching it appeared the IGF signal to the ECU was the culprit. Honestly not sure if the black/orange wire is the IGF, but it solved my problem.

Trying to be positive at least I took care of any possible coil/ecu issues 'til this thing drops dead. And the fuel pump ECU as well so if this thing takes a dump again it won't be for those reasons.

Good to have it back on the road.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Black Orange is switched 12v, runs to many many places.

QwkSC

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar issue

Symptoms:
-Car would start then die, or start and rough idle Round 250-500 rpm.
-Even if I reved the engine, it would still immediately die.
-Condition was exacerbated in hot weather.

Cam sensors were replaced, no further issues to date.

Chasrb

I have a 94 sc400 205k on it. Have a very similar error, but not exact. Took the car out for a drive it died in 3 minutes. No rough idling just quit. All the dash lights were on.

Pushed the car back to the house. Let it sit a while. While it sat I unplugged and plugged back in all the fuses, checking them for any blown ones. All good.
Got back in the car and it started right up. Good smooth idle, rev to 4k smooth and responsive.
Let it sit overnight.
Took it out the next day stated up ran good. drove 15-20 miles...died all dash icon on,
Read through the forum and ended up replacing the FUEL pump ECU.
Again ran great for about 20 mile and then...died.

So I am going to run the tests to see what code I pull and work from them.

I am guessing that if my fuel pump was not working the car would not start since there would be no pressure in the lines.

Will update as I get time to pull code.

Chasman

Chasrb

Did the codes not sure I really had any, but what I did have was the check engine light and the o/d light blinked together. no pause just a continual blinking. I can't find what that means if anything.

Duck05

Reads like an ECU issue or as this thread panned out to a faulty wire.....

2jznosht

Well if the pump is in fact on it's way out, it could bee enough to keep the car running, but not while in gear...so it could be a dying pump, or Ann ecu related issue.