I dare you to figure this one out.
#1
Lead Lap
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: louisiana
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I dare you to figure this one out.
Ok.... So check this out...
My car was running perfect at 9psi... NA-T, billet 6262, tial 44mm, mapecu.
I recently added a TT head gasket, ARP head studs, PTE 580cc injectors, mk4 resistor, and upgraded to map-ecu2 for timing control.
the car ran strong and pulled really hard at 16psi / 93oct.
I recirculated my dump pipe into my exhaust, and it was really quiet and felt amazing.
the next day, I drove it around and right when i'd floor it i heard just a little tiny hesitation... or hiccup, kinda small popping sound out of the exhaust, then it would go away at higher PSI and pull strong.
Well the more and more i got on it, the more popping i'd hear and the AFRs would just get leaner and leaner.
so i bought new plugs, NGK bkr7e's gapped them down to 26, threw them in... and cranked it up and the car was running dead rich at idle.
i went for a test drive and had the same problem, severe popping/missing under boost.
the next step i took was to replace the entire ignition system, I threw on a new igniter, coil, cap, rotor and new wires. same problem.
It would drive good, untill i got under boost, sometime i'd hit boost and the car will just shut off and wont start back up for a while.
I checked it for boost leaks, zip tied a couple vacuum lines, nothing major. It still pulls good vacuum at idle, we found a small boost leak coming from the throttle body, where the shaft for the pedal line connects, so i swapped out the entire TB, with new TPS, and IACV. Still the same problem.
It actualy got to the point where the car would start dieing on me out of nowhere... just randomly dieing on me in traffic and wont start back up for about 15 min.
Right now when i start it up, it'll idle fine, perfect 14.7 and then it'll just randomly die. no sputtering, nothing.
I also stuck a wrench on each injector to listen to them, and they all seam to be working, each of them clicking perfectly.
I can't even drive it anymore.
So i thought, maybe it was a sensor, so i replaced all of the sensors on the motor... coolant temp, and both knock sensors... same problem.
I also replaced the ECU, no difference.
Does anyone have any idea of what this could be? Because I'm seriously stumped here.
My car was running perfect at 9psi... NA-T, billet 6262, tial 44mm, mapecu.
I recently added a TT head gasket, ARP head studs, PTE 580cc injectors, mk4 resistor, and upgraded to map-ecu2 for timing control.
the car ran strong and pulled really hard at 16psi / 93oct.
I recirculated my dump pipe into my exhaust, and it was really quiet and felt amazing.
the next day, I drove it around and right when i'd floor it i heard just a little tiny hesitation... or hiccup, kinda small popping sound out of the exhaust, then it would go away at higher PSI and pull strong.
Well the more and more i got on it, the more popping i'd hear and the AFRs would just get leaner and leaner.
so i bought new plugs, NGK bkr7e's gapped them down to 26, threw them in... and cranked it up and the car was running dead rich at idle.
i went for a test drive and had the same problem, severe popping/missing under boost.
the next step i took was to replace the entire ignition system, I threw on a new igniter, coil, cap, rotor and new wires. same problem.
It would drive good, untill i got under boost, sometime i'd hit boost and the car will just shut off and wont start back up for a while.
I checked it for boost leaks, zip tied a couple vacuum lines, nothing major. It still pulls good vacuum at idle, we found a small boost leak coming from the throttle body, where the shaft for the pedal line connects, so i swapped out the entire TB, with new TPS, and IACV. Still the same problem.
It actualy got to the point where the car would start dieing on me out of nowhere... just randomly dieing on me in traffic and wont start back up for about 15 min.
Right now when i start it up, it'll idle fine, perfect 14.7 and then it'll just randomly die. no sputtering, nothing.
I also stuck a wrench on each injector to listen to them, and they all seam to be working, each of them clicking perfectly.
I can't even drive it anymore.
So i thought, maybe it was a sensor, so i replaced all of the sensors on the motor... coolant temp, and both knock sensors... same problem.
I also replaced the ECU, no difference.
Does anyone have any idea of what this could be? Because I'm seriously stumped here.
#7
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (5)
my bet is that it's the distributor b/c mines kept dying randomly in traffic and when the engine bay gets hot it won't rev past 3k rpms and if i try to rev it past 3k rpms the car will lose all power and shut down on me. sometimes it will take 10+ tries or until the engine cools before the car will actually start again. i also did the 12v mod but nothing. replaced it w/ a new distributor and everything went away...
Last edited by SC300_704; 07-11-10 at 05:13 PM.
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#8
#9
my bet is that it's the distributor b/c mines kept dying randomly in traffic and when the engine bay gets hot it won't rev past 3k rpms and if i try to rev it past 3k rpms the car will lose all power and shut down on me. sometimes it will take 10+ tries or until the engine cools before the car will actually start again. i also did the 12v mod but nothing. replaced it w/ a new distributor and everything went away...
u can't drive ur car if the transformer is burnt out
#12
I had some similar problems on my MR2 turbo. I found a few things causing problems. I had a broken wire going to the fuel injector resistor pack. That took forever to figure out because it was intermittent.
The AFM wasn't secured and the that made it do some strange things under accel.
Had a plugged fuel pressure reg that caused it to run super rich.
I never had much luck with the NGK bkr7e plugs. Too cold, unless I was really hammering on the car all the time, they wouldn't get up to self cleaning temp. I ended up going back to platinums.
Have you changed the crank position sensor?
The AFM wasn't secured and the that made it do some strange things under accel.
Had a plugged fuel pressure reg that caused it to run super rich.
I never had much luck with the NGK bkr7e plugs. Too cold, unless I was really hammering on the car all the time, they wouldn't get up to self cleaning temp. I ended up going back to platinums.
Have you changed the crank position sensor?
#15
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (2)
what fuel pump are you running? have you done the 12v mod? hop one step cooler on the plug and gap it at .8mm DO NOT GAP irridium plugs by the way. doesn't hurt to change the fuel filter, but that shouldn't be causing the problem like that. are you using top feed injectors and a fuel pressure regulator?