Battery Relocation. Clarification Needed
02-28-12, 09:12 AM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Battery Relocation. Clarification Needed
I want to relocate the battery to the trunk and just wanted to know a few things. First Off the way I want to do it is to run the alternator wire and Starter wire to a distribution block, then to the battery In the trunk. I've heard that there should be a fuse inline with the power wire near the battery, but I do not know what size. I think it should be the same to handle the cranking power of the battery? Any insight will be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by SOLID300; 02-28-12 at 09:28 AM.
02-28-12, 10:00 AM
#2
i did this pretty cleanly on my 1jzvvti sc400 a while back. i did what you did in that diagram, but i used a 150a thermal circuit breaker where you have "fuse" labeled. i think people like to use these circuit breakers because they can be flipped off/on pretty easily, and you don't have to replace a $20 150a fuse if you ever blow it for some reason. i kept my stock fuse block in the original spot, and just ran my battery cable up to where it went originally (attached into the front of the fuse box on that stud) then used my original batter/alternator cables. it was pretty simple.
if i ever needed to disconnect my battery to do work on the car, i just flipped the little circuit breaker instead of unbolting my battery cable. it's convenient, easier than dealing with big (100+amp) automotive fuses, and they are simple to hook up. the only drawback is that i think the circuit breaker was like $38 from advance.
and to answer your original question; yes, you seem to have your diagram drawn up correctly, but i would put a marine/automotive circuit breaker in instead of a fuse, and a distribution block will work just fine to keep up in the engine bay to split the battery cable for alternator/starter.
if i ever needed to disconnect my battery to do work on the car, i just flipped the little circuit breaker instead of unbolting my battery cable. it's convenient, easier than dealing with big (100+amp) automotive fuses, and they are simple to hook up. the only drawback is that i think the circuit breaker was like $38 from advance.
and to answer your original question; yes, you seem to have your diagram drawn up correctly, but i would put a marine/automotive circuit breaker in instead of a fuse, and a distribution block will work just fine to keep up in the engine bay to split the battery cable for alternator/starter.
Last edited by cartmill; 02-28-12 at 10:03 AM.
02-28-12, 10:17 AM
#3
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks you man. That Circuit breaker is a really good Idea. I am also going to use that. And my fuse box will be in the trunk so I will also use the original stud on it as well.
What gauge is your power wire? I bought 2g because I was told it works fine.
What gauge is your power wire? I bought 2g because I was told it works fine.
02-28-12, 11:13 AM
#4
i also recommend using 2ga welding cable. it doesn't cost much more than good battery cable, it is made for flowing lots of amps (think of a welder) and it's VERY durable for running back to the back of the car. i mean, people drag their welders around on shop floors all day long
i like to use welding cable, copper lugs, and heat shrink. it looks factory, and that welding cable
i like to use welding cable, copper lugs, and heat shrink. it looks factory, and that welding cable
02-28-12, 11:27 AM
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i also recommend using 2ga welding cable. it doesn't cost much more than good battery cable, it is made for flowing lots of amps (think of a welder) and it's VERY durable for running back to the back of the car. i mean, people drag their welders around on shop floors all day long
i like to use welding cable, copper lugs, and heat shrink. it looks factory, and that welding cable
i like to use welding cable, copper lugs, and heat shrink. it looks factory, and that welding cable
and I corrected my little diagram to a better one.
02-28-12, 01:06 PM
#7
Audio Shops can sell you a good distro box.
Cartmill's setup is nice and clean, take heed DIY'ers!
Although it should be noted that when you move your battery to the rear, some racing sanctions require a box and breather tube if the battery isn't sealed like an Optima.
Cartmill's setup is nice and clean, take heed DIY'ers!
Although it should be noted that when you move your battery to the rear, some racing sanctions require a box and breather tube if the battery isn't sealed like an Optima.
Trending Topics
02-28-12, 01:35 PM
#8
Audio Shops can sell you a good distro box.
Cartmill's setup is nice and clean, take heed DIY'ers!
Although it should be noted that when you move your battery to the rear, some racing sanctions require a box and breather tube if the battery isn't sealed like an Optima.
Cartmill's setup is nice and clean, take heed DIY'ers!
Although it should be noted that when you move your battery to the rear, some racing sanctions require a box and breather tube if the battery isn't sealed like an Optima.
much appreciated. and the stock carpet/cover fit over it so you couldn't see anything. i shouldn't have sold that car...
yeah, nice note about the sealed box. i've also heard that the small amount of gas that emits from the conventional acid batteries is corrosive and can do some damage to your trunk carpet/seals/etc. (no idea if that's actually true or not, but it does make sense).
also, OP, for power distribution with big wires like the battery/starter/alternator, since you're not doing the factory style like i did, i'd use a power post and "T" your main battery wire with the starter and alternator wire on one post in the engine bay (attachment): i'm not really a fan of the screw-in style stereo amp distribution blocks, but they work.
also just FYI marine retailers are usually a good go-to for battery related stuff because they usually have multiple batteries/cables and they have to protect stuff from the elements (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ne=1&page=GRID)
Last edited by cartmill; 02-28-12 at 02:11 PM.
03-01-12, 07:30 PM
#10
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Austin,Tx
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just got some 0/1 gauge wire, new battery terminals that will work with 0/2/8 gauge wires right off the terminals. I also have a distribution block that will handle 0/2/4/8 gauge wire so I can split off of that to my Alt, Starter, and fuse box. I have the terminals on the battery so that I can run wiring to my Cap and amp set up for my audio system.
Let me know if this sounds right or if I am thinking completely wrong.
I already have my battery in the trunk. Just wanted thicker wiring from it to the engine compartment.
Let me know if this sounds right or if I am thinking completely wrong.
I already have my battery in the trunk. Just wanted thicker wiring from it to the engine compartment.
03-01-12, 08:22 PM
#11
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: texas
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you need to run a separate fuse for the alt jic you need to diagnose electrical probs in the future. i would do it from the dist box to fuse box then fuse box to 100amp breaker then breaker to batt.. i also used 0 gauge wire. or you can do it that way and just run an inline fuse where the block to alt is
03-02-12, 07:30 AM
#12
I just ran my positive battery cable from the stock cable to the trunk with a 2 gauge wire from the auto store.
that goes to a 200amp breaker right next to battery (I got at car toys for audio stuff; it says 0 or 4 gauge, but 2 fits in there just fine). from the fuse straight to the battery. Ground side of the battery is just a 2-3 foot cable grounded in the trunk. Works fine for me.
in the engine bay the 2 gauge wire connects to the starter wire and the fusebox, which are both considerably smaller wires, so I figured the 2 gauge can handle it and there was no need to run the starter all the way to the trunk. Starter works just fine, but I would recommend changing that short starter wire to a 4 gauge piece, they have short ready made ones at the auto store even with ends already on it.
that goes to a 200amp breaker right next to battery (I got at car toys for audio stuff; it says 0 or 4 gauge, but 2 fits in there just fine). from the fuse straight to the battery. Ground side of the battery is just a 2-3 foot cable grounded in the trunk. Works fine for me.
in the engine bay the 2 gauge wire connects to the starter wire and the fusebox, which are both considerably smaller wires, so I figured the 2 gauge can handle it and there was no need to run the starter all the way to the trunk. Starter works just fine, but I would recommend changing that short starter wire to a 4 gauge piece, they have short ready made ones at the auto store even with ends already on it.
03-02-12, 09:10 AM
#13
this is my plan which is basicaly the same thing but everything is run off the distributor box after the 150a breaker. I would of got a 200a braker but the auto store didnt have it. 4g wire should be fine for the starter and the fuse box right? or should 2g be used all around?
Forgot to mention Im putting the fusebox under the dash sencs I got no AC/heater under there.
Forgot to mention Im putting the fusebox under the dash sencs I got no AC/heater under there.
03-02-12, 09:22 AM
#14
I would swap around those starter and alternator wires. i am pretty sure Toyota used 2ga for the starter and 4ga for the alternator.
i could be wrong (it's been a while since i did my battery relocation).
i could be wrong (it's been a while since i did my battery relocation).
Last edited by cartmill; 03-02-12 at 09:31 AM.
