jessev1

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I just had a few questions on this car I bought recently. It ran great for a while but just recently a couple weird things have been happening.

I went on a few fun runs and the car ran great no problems at all, but about a week after that I dyno'd the car and it would not rev passed 4200rpm and ran really rich. The guy at the shop checked it out and said i needed new spark plugs and there was a vacuum hose loose on this that he reconnected.

What is this?
I'm pretty sure it was loose before when i was on the fun runs and it ran fine, but since it's been plugged back in the idle is low and the car dies at times when its cold and i put it in neutral. When i disconnect it the car idles great like it did when i first got it but the profec boost controller wont read boost.

Another problem that popped up since i dyno'd the car is the a/f gauge and profec e0-1 fails to turn on and will randomly come on when im driving or not at all.

lemmiewink

That's the heater core vacuum actuator. The only thing it will do with the vacuum line off is that it creates a vacuum leak.

jessev1

iTrader: (1)

hmm when i take its vacuum hose off of the intake manifold it does not read boost on the boost controller and the a/f runs really lean like in the 15-16's at idle. The vacuum hose does T off onto something else though i'll get a picture tomorow and mess around with it. Maybe he connected the wrong hoses somewhere?

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

sounds like someone didnt do a few things correctly with that install...I read your post over on clubna-t.

The a/f gauge and e0-1 issue sounds like a loose connection somewhere, so start digging through the wires, and check for any cheap crimp connectors, or broken/loose wires.

as for the vacuum line, get a closer picture if possible, and find the vacuum line going to your boost gauge and "t" it inline with your FPR vacuum signal line, or straight off the throttle body.

jessev1

iTrader: (1)

Alright well the guy messed around with the tune on the car and he said it was the main problem, i dunno how because it ran great before the dyno, the car is still kind of finicky on a cold start it really needs to warm up or else the engine dies.




1. Is coming from the intake manifold
2. Is going to the old boost gauge, the car seems to idle better when i disconnect this(i dont use it anyway) and leave that valve open. But when i plug the valve, the car runs the same as if it was plugged into the old boost gauge.
3. I would guess is going to the e0-1 or emanage as that sensor says greddy on it
4. I still dont know what it is.

I just messed around with it and seems the car doesn't really die anymore just the idle gets better(tapping the throttle and with a/c on) the more i leave open.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

wow, your pressure sensor for your ecu is half way across the engine from the intake manifold and has just about everything T'd into it.
PRESSURE SENSOR SHOULD SEE MANIFOLD VACUUM DIRECTLY, with nothing T'd into it.

I wouldn't try and tune that car with a 50 yard stick. please find a tuner who can route vacuum lines normally, just looking at that rats nest makes me want to fix it.

use one of the vac nipples on the front side of the intake manifold for the map sensor (#3). do not T anything into it. you can use the one for the fpr and for the fpr you can T that into something else.. like the other one right next to it for the power steering idle up valve.

I run it with the map sensor dedicated to the very large spot for the power steering idle up valve, and I just capped off the power steering valve cause it doesn't seem to matter much.

For the boost gauge you can T into any of the vac lines really except for the map sensor line and also you may want to avoid the bov line.

you should use the stock vacuum routing diagram to return all those to stock in that picture.
those are not the right vac lines to tap at all. if anything you should be tapping the unmarked vacuum port on the backside of the throttle body.

the reason why your car runs better with it disconnected is because of the tune and not reading the right vacuum. when you have a vacuum leak, your idle raises up, which in this case "appears" better because its covering your problem of the map sensor not reading right.
I bet when you pull that hose the emanage reads 0 vac.

jessev1

iTrader: (1)

Ah ok, well i bought the car like this and its my first car other than a honda so bare with me here haha. So basically I just pull everything off of 3 and run it straight to the intake manifold nipple, and 4 i can either splice into the vacuum hose that is running the fpr or just cap off without problems? The boost gauge I dont need as it's reading boost on the e0-1, I dunno why the previous owner had 2 boost gauges but that one i'm just going to pull out.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you got part of it right, mainly put the sensor on 3 straight to the manifold.

for number 4, it needs to go back where it came from (looks like 1), theres a vacuum diagram on the top of the hood if you look up. connect those 2 together and take out that T for the boost gauge you are not using.

if you want to keep the boost gauge you could use the T in the fpr line and make sure its a good fit/ not leaking. I actually use a T into one of the tiny vacuum spots on the firewall side of the manifold (was for something useless like egr or whatever). for vac/boost readings closer to the manifold the better, and things like a bov/wastegate can pollute the vacuum readings which is why we don't T into these for the map sensor. the gauge wont change how your engine runs =)
we are interested in the readings inside the manifold, not in that particular line.

I'll try and take a picture later today when i go to my car.

*edit* you know someone blocked off your iac valve right? that will make getting a good idle pretty difficult.

jessev1

iTrader: (1)

Yes I know, and most of the throttle body vacuum lines are welded off. It was something about deleting most of the vacuum for some reason i dont know why. The car ran fine before i dyno'd it, maybe when one of the hoses popped off on the dyno he reconnected them like that. I'll give it a try though there isn't many places i can hook vacuum lines to now.

jessev1

iTrader: (1)

Would this work?

I'm not sure if that black line near the power steering resevoir is a vacuum line though, its just capped off there.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

use the one you marked in green for map source .. thats what i use for my aem but do not tee anything off of it ....

jessev1

iTrader: (1)

I put the map at #1 and the heater valve T'd into the fpr. Car still runs the same with a/c on car will die when i get off the throttle. The throttle screw is all the way in so i cant raise the idle any more.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that red line is just a hard line that runs across the block. it looks like its been capped off.