jinsoku3g

1JZGTE Swap with R154 Trans

Okay I've been searching for a while now, I can't find an answer.. I hate posting threads that have already been answered, I find similar stories.. but not quite the same..

I believe my car is in limp mode...

Symptoms:
Car Idles Smooth
will NOT rev past 2krpms
In gear can't go past 1500rpms
this limits my speeds to about 37mph

I take off power to the battery for some time, hook it back up.. car runs like a bat out of hell..

and about 1-3 minutes later, car doesn't shut off, it bogs all the way down until i eith A)Slow down almost to a hault get it to like 30mph and put it in 5th, or B) take it out of gear and slow down until I can do the same..

Last week I replaced the TPS, negative.. I already paid for the ECU to get rebuilt by Drift Motion, I'm sending the ECU Monday with hopes that it could possible be the Capacitors in the ECU heating up and killing power to me, which the rebuild would fix..

bad thing is im still learning about the car, it sat for a year with the swap before I bought it a little over a month ago.. guess what, even with this crap.. I still freaking love this thing, my 3rd SC this year (i keep finding one a little better) this is definetly the keeper.. i just gotta get it running reliably!!

My other guess is possibly a bad ground somewhere.. I do notice at night if I have my turn signal on, the headlights flicker with the signal.. maybe thats nothing, but i notice it..

tomorrow after work I want to check the grounds, I just can't find any info on exactly where each one should be. Anybody?

Any input, or experience, or opinons would be soo appreciated..

I'm in Jacksonville Florida if any gurus happen to be local LOL

THANK YOU CL


if you were wondering about the other 2 I had this year, 92 sc400 240k, bought as project realized I was going to spend way more than I need to to have a respectable SC ($1750) ran ok, interior was crap, paint was crap.. 2nd was a 96 SC300, interior great shap body good shap except for some oxidation, everything worked, 282k of course bad leather $2795on the odo, rough idla after a while, and sounded like a chain was dragging even in park.. Picked up this SC for $6000, 181k on odo, 80k on engine.. one crack on door sill, newer paint, redone leather/suede, exactly what I want have all the receipts from 07 for the swap, it was done professionally and previously ran well..

Even thoguht I'm going through this, I love it.. better than my old Prowler, Solstice, MR2, all of em.. great car!

Here she is, lets get her to LIVE!! Yep those are FWD wheels form the previous owner.. fml. Worried about looks later lol

jinsoku3g

I haven't even gotten a chance to clean her up good yet, my time goes into my sloow drive to work.. another thing im doing tomorrow is degreasing that engine bay lol

jinsoku3g

i'd appreciate any kinda input!!

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Have you checked engine trouble codes?

Just don't get any electronics wet when you degrease it. WD40 works great, just wipe it off with a rag.

Does the car have a boost controller installed?

jinsoku3g

thats the problem with the swap, they didnt connect the CEL, im gonna try to figure that out in the upcoming weeks

ok wd40 works, i definetly dont want to mess anything else up!!

yeah it has the Greddy Profec B

heres the mods:
1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo Engine
greddy Front Mount Intercooler
3" polished intercooler piping
Greddy Profec Boost Controller
HKS SSQV Blow off Valve
Megan Racing coilovers
Stage 2 Clutch
R154 5 spd transmission
autometer oil pressure gauge
autometer boost gauge
F1 racing Light Weight Flywheel
Goodridge Stainless steel Brake lines
cross drilled & Slotted Rotors
EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads
Kenwood DDX8019 DoubleDin touchscreen
Custom Leather and Suede interior by 904 MotorSports
cone air filter
Oil Catch Can
walbro 255 fuel pump
greddy shift ****

jinsoku3g

ok, so gave a oil change yesterday, and theni noticed on my driveway that there was a wet spot by the back passenger side wheel.

GASOLINE.

pulled out the trunk liner and found the pass side of trunk was filled with gas under where the cd changers go, what happened her was the main filler line.. right next to is is a smaller line going to the tank.. maybe to read pressure? it had busted off the bracket and was just going in my trunk, i jb welded it back together for a good temporary fix, the car last all day with no issues.. drove 88 miles.

i turn it on again this morning and its already in limp.. wtf?? i feel like its not the ecu or it wouldnt of let me drive that much yesterday

FuMoFFuTT

iTrader: (2)

I hope you can fix your problems.. maybe check soarercentral, they deal with a lot of the 1jz's in their soarer.

jinsoku3g

thank you very much, i really want it to just be all better lol.. ill do that, searchin for that site now

6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

So all your problems went away after fixing the filler neck fuel line?

Try doing a fuel pressure test to see if your getting adequate fuel pressure. That small line is most likely your fuel vapor line.

jinsoku3g

it seems like that fixed it, but its right back in limp mode...how do i do a fuel pressure test?

6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

http://www.automedia.com/Fuel_Pump_P...cr20080201fp/1

http://www.ehow.com/how_2143018_test...ssure-car.html

I would check if you have any DTC stored, but in your case it doesnt work so I would check for fuel pressure.

Most fuel test ports are located near the fuel rail. Ideal pressure would be 35-44 psi if I remember right.

If you dont have a fuel pressure tester, see if your local autoparts store rents them out..

jinsoku3g

ok fuel pressure is all good. just got home from autozone, i pull the battery off, put it back on, start the car, revs up great.. let it stay idle for a minute and you can hear it lower the idle rpm when it goes into limp mode.. woulod this be a ecu? it seems like if it was.. it would never let me drive correctly, but it ran fine all day yesterday.

i might be one of the selct few in jacksonville with a 1j, i cant find anybody around here, before i ship this out monday it would be awesome to try a different one and se eif it does the same.

jinsoku3g

does anyone happen to know much about this Dakota Digital Signal Interface? i just found it under the carpet next to the ecu running in line on a yellow wire, i googled the product and it is for the speedometer.. just wondering if this would at all contribute to the bug

6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

I dont know if you read the link below but theres a lot of good stuff in there. I myself dont have a 1JZ yet, Im planning on swapping one in soon and getting prepared by reading and searching. Just thought it might be in there, give it a shot.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ap-issues.html

jinsoku3g

closest thing i found in the 13 pages was somebody's cars cutting off at 1500 rpm.. and something about a 12v mod? idk what that is.. what does a fuel cut feel like?

when im in gear ill give it gas lets say in 5th, when it hits between 1500-2000 rpms, around 38 mph, power just KILLS until i slow to about 25-30. litterally, car does not make a sound pedal doesnt do anything. i also notice when im idleing, if i hold the gas down so it will hit 2 and back 2 and back the boost guage being in vacuum, the cut of revving is right at 0 between boost and vaccuum