2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
08-31-10, 02:04 PM
#31
good luck with the trans, hopefully it will work out.
i found some helpfull info for you in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-1g-gs300.html
"The reason swapping a TT auto is complicated is because of the line pressure issue with the valve bodies. Believe it or not, the cable the n/a auto has is NOT a kickdown cable but a cable to control line pressure. The problem with the TT tranny is line pressure is controlled electronically via a solenoid. The solenoid is linearly controlled and allows for more precise line pressure control. So far, the only way to control the TT tranny is with an AEM, however"
Since you are doing the opposite, if you could retain the cable to control the line pressure (doesn't it come off the throttle body to the trans? its already there so don't remove it), then the transmission could theoretically operate just like before and just leave the electronic control from the TT ecu doing nothing (theres no where to connect it to anyways). I would imagine you may get a code or 2 for this, but maybe there is a way to trick it into thinking its connected.
i found some helpfull info for you in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-1g-gs300.html
"The reason swapping a TT auto is complicated is because of the line pressure issue with the valve bodies. Believe it or not, the cable the n/a auto has is NOT a kickdown cable but a cable to control line pressure. The problem with the TT tranny is line pressure is controlled electronically via a solenoid. The solenoid is linearly controlled and allows for more precise line pressure control. So far, the only way to control the TT tranny is with an AEM, however"
Since you are doing the opposite, if you could retain the cable to control the line pressure (doesn't it come off the throttle body to the trans? its already there so don't remove it), then the transmission could theoretically operate just like before and just leave the electronic control from the TT ecu doing nothing (theres no where to connect it to anyways). I would imagine you may get a code or 2 for this, but maybe there is a way to trick it into thinking its connected.
Yeah you did get lucky, and I really wish my SC was a 5-speed, but working with whats here for now, and trying to get more information/knowledge posted up for future reference.
08-31-10, 03:57 PM
#33
ok for the o2 sensor im looking @ the AEM wiring diagrams you got both the zoomed in & original, it looks like 2 wires are plugged into pin 47 and 1 into 72 for the sub o2 sensor same for the main (2 to 48 & 1 to 73)
i think this is the way the 3 wire o2 plugs in, let me know wat you think
i think this is the way the 3 wire o2 plugs in, let me know wat you think
08-31-10, 06:20 PM
#34
thats not right, 2 wires hardly ever go to the same pin, it works like this.
they are actually 4 wire 02's in that diagram.
for ox1 according to the ecu pinout:
signal is 73B (pin 1 on o2 sensor) and
heater ground is 48B (pin 3 on o2 sensor)
now there are 2 wires left (pins 2 and 4) for the o2 sensor, one is power for the heater circuit and one is power for the actual o2 circuit.
I know that wire labeled BR (pin 4 on the o2 sensor) is 5v, same color as the 5v for the maf and IAT sensors.
now the last wire (pin 3) is labeled B-R which i'm not 100% sure what that is but I would guess its a switched 12V. someone should double check and see what that wire is.
that was just for one sensor, the good news is both the power wires for second o2 sensors can be spliced off the first one (they should be close to each other).
so basically from a stock viewpoint you need to run 2 wires to the ecu for the heater grounds (one for each o2 sensor), and 4 wires for power (either from ecu or close by, and you can just run 2 wires and splice at the sensors).
they are actually 4 wire 02's in that diagram.
for ox1 according to the ecu pinout:
signal is 73B (pin 1 on o2 sensor) and
heater ground is 48B (pin 3 on o2 sensor)
now there are 2 wires left (pins 2 and 4) for the o2 sensor, one is power for the heater circuit and one is power for the actual o2 circuit.
I know that wire labeled BR (pin 4 on the o2 sensor) is 5v, same color as the 5v for the maf and IAT sensors.
now the last wire (pin 3) is labeled B-R which i'm not 100% sure what that is but I would guess its a switched 12V. someone should double check and see what that wire is.
that was just for one sensor, the good news is both the power wires for second o2 sensors can be spliced off the first one (they should be close to each other).
so basically from a stock viewpoint you need to run 2 wires to the ecu for the heater grounds (one for each o2 sensor), and 4 wires for power (either from ecu or close by, and you can just run 2 wires and splice at the sensors).
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-31-10 at 06:24 PM.
08-31-10, 11:03 PM
#35
ok so for main sensor u run one wire to pin 71 and then 2 wires to pin 48
then pretty much same deal for the sub 1 to 72, 2 to 47
then just splice the double wires together
im pretty sure ur guna say wrong again
so ill ask what voltage does it need 12v or 5v
then pretty much same deal for the sub 1 to 72, 2 to 47
then just splice the double wires together
im pretty sure ur guna say wrong again
so ill ask what voltage does it need 12v or 5v
Last edited by solprps92; 08-31-10 at 11:39 PM.
09-02-10, 10:03 AM
#39
lol you could in all honesty not worry about it at first, its not going to keep your car from starting or driving not having the heated sensor in there. the regular ge sensor should get the job done but it will throw a code for the heater not connected, but definately something you can deal with later on after a couple dozen burn-outs 
09-02-10, 11:04 AM
#40
lol you could in all honesty not worry about it at first, its not going to keep your car from starting or driving not having the heated sensor in there. the regular ge sensor should get the job done but it will throw a code for the heater not connected, but definately something you can deal with later on after a couple dozen burn-outs
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LEXXIUM (11-28-19)
09-02-10, 05:51 PM
#43
And this is where my issues arises..my SC has been under the knife so long, my tags are out. I know where I can get a sticker, but would rather do it legal, plus I cant stand having the CEL light on in my dash, bugs the crap outta me. Thats why I had asked if you knew what resistor would simulate the heated o2. I have excellent access to all kinds of electronics, and could simply make a resistor box to fit under the hood somewhere, just not sure what resistor to use.
I guess you guys haven't seen this thread. This is the first thread I ever saw proof and instructions for it all working. It has majority of the info but he never used the stock ignition. He went straight to coilpacks.
post 16 he tells what resistor to use for the o2 sensor.
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=7291
09-02-10, 06:15 PM
#44
lol most people do tags before it goes under the knife, but i understand my 2 years are coming around as well. sorry i was too lazy to look it up before.
I guess you guys haven't seen this thread. This is the first thread I ever saw proof and instructions for it all working. It has majority of the info but he never used the stock ignition. He went straight to coilpacks.
post 16 he tells what resistor to use for the o2 sensor.
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=7291
I guess you guys haven't seen this thread. This is the first thread I ever saw proof and instructions for it all working. It has majority of the info but he never used the stock ignition. He went straight to coilpacks.
post 16 he tells what resistor to use for the o2 sensor.
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=7291
And out of all the threads I read through, I had never seen that one, but figured it was between a 30-36ohm's. Guess its time to take a trip to the electronics part store this weekend and get some resistors and a heat sink
Thanks again Ali (for the 10th time)
**After looking through the thread for the wiring of the resistors, its says to wire them from pin 71 and 72 on the GTE ecu, but the GTE ecu diagram I have shows OX1 Main htd. Sensor @ pin 48 (E9) and pin 71 (E9 for HT1 main htd. sens.)?? ** FAIL, i found it. The diagram I have doesnt have the sub's listed (pins 47, and 72). But now that I see those, your post (#34) make much more sense.
Also any specific switched 12v signal I should be using?**
Last edited by turbodremz; 09-02-10 at 06:47 PM.
09-08-10, 07:30 PM
#45
Im having a little trouble finding a jdm iat sensor
it the only thing i need left
any body got anywhere that can sell good jdm parts
also im looking into where to put the MAP and IAT Sensors
i know theres a vacuum line under the plenum somewhere i havent really looked into yet
but my real question is what place should i put the IAT
the pic is of the stock intake now when i do this im guna do a BFI and make some piping
i think itd be easier to drill into that piping (yellow) then the other piece (red) i pointed out idk what it is exactly just part of the throttle body
anyway let me know what you think
it the only thing i need left
any body got anywhere that can sell good jdm parts
also im looking into where to put the MAP and IAT Sensors
i know theres a vacuum line under the plenum somewhere i havent really looked into yet
but my real question is what place should i put the IAT
the pic is of the stock intake now when i do this im guna do a BFI and make some piping
i think itd be easier to drill into that piping (yellow) then the other piece (red) i pointed out idk what it is exactly just part of the throttle body
anyway let me know what you think