DIY Tire Well Harness Relocation
#151
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#152
Lexus Test Driver
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yellow srs wires are too short to be relocated without cutting and extending, which is not recommended. Due to electrical magic that I can neither understand nor confirm, it may render your airbags useless. We've all seen those safety videos of the no-helmet-wearing watermelons riding bicycles. No one wants that all over their interior. you'll just have to figure out a way to secure it way up onto the frame.
The hood latch, on the other hand is pretty simple, it took me an hour or so the first time to figure out a way to do it, but once i figured out a plan, it was pretty simple.
step 1. locate hood latch release lever under your dash. (I'm gonna assume this is common knowledge)
step 2. tug on the release lever while positioning your head awkwardly underneath the dash so you can see what's going on. You're going to want to undo the cable that hooks onto the back of the release lever. It's the same setup as the throttle cable and door handle so you'll have to rotate it a bit and slide it sideways to freedom.
step 3. undo any clips holding the cable in place inside (i think there was actually only 1, but been a while since I did one of these)
step 4. Get out from the dash and take a breather to recover from the light-headed feeling. Get into the wheelwell and yank the cable out into the wheelwell (make sure the cable is actually free from any clips, wire binds, etc inside the cabin).
step 5 Undo any clips/zipties securing the cable onto the frame.
step 6 see the hole in the frame that the hood release cable is coming out of towards the front of the wheelwell? I'm gonna call this the Bore A. Forcefeed the cable back into Bore A into the frame like it's comatose, but make sure to feed the cable towards the back of the car.
step 7. now the hard part. There's another hole (Bore B) in the frame, this time, more towards the back of the wheelwell. IIRC, it was about a foot or so behind Bore A. Stick your finger into Bore B while feeding the cable through Bore A. Grab the cable with your finger through Bore B and pull it allllllll the way out. This step took so long for me the first time, 1. because I couldn't seem to get a grasp on the end of the cable through Bore B, and 2. the cable always got caught on something when trying to yank it through. What I did was as the cable was inside the frame, i forced it towards the outside of the car since the wall inside the frame will help guide the cable along to the Bore B.
step 8. The cable is now through. excellent! Now all you have to do is force the cable back into the cabin, hooking it onto the lever, and clipping it in place.
I'd post pics for reference but it's kinda a pita to jack up my car so my meager explanation will have to do. Hope i was able to help someone.
The hood latch, on the other hand is pretty simple, it took me an hour or so the first time to figure out a way to do it, but once i figured out a plan, it was pretty simple.
step 1. locate hood latch release lever under your dash. (I'm gonna assume this is common knowledge)
step 2. tug on the release lever while positioning your head awkwardly underneath the dash so you can see what's going on. You're going to want to undo the cable that hooks onto the back of the release lever. It's the same setup as the throttle cable and door handle so you'll have to rotate it a bit and slide it sideways to freedom.
step 3. undo any clips holding the cable in place inside (i think there was actually only 1, but been a while since I did one of these)
step 4. Get out from the dash and take a breather to recover from the light-headed feeling. Get into the wheelwell and yank the cable out into the wheelwell (make sure the cable is actually free from any clips, wire binds, etc inside the cabin).
step 5 Undo any clips/zipties securing the cable onto the frame.
step 6 see the hole in the frame that the hood release cable is coming out of towards the front of the wheelwell? I'm gonna call this the Bore A. Forcefeed the cable back into Bore A into the frame like it's comatose, but make sure to feed the cable towards the back of the car.
step 7. now the hard part. There's another hole (Bore B) in the frame, this time, more towards the back of the wheelwell. IIRC, it was about a foot or so behind Bore A. Stick your finger into Bore B while feeding the cable through Bore A. Grab the cable with your finger through Bore B and pull it allllllll the way out. This step took so long for me the first time, 1. because I couldn't seem to get a grasp on the end of the cable through Bore B, and 2. the cable always got caught on something when trying to yank it through. What I did was as the cable was inside the frame, i forced it towards the outside of the car since the wall inside the frame will help guide the cable along to the Bore B.
step 8. The cable is now through. excellent! Now all you have to do is force the cable back into the cabin, hooking it onto the lever, and clipping it in place.
I'd post pics for reference but it's kinda a pita to jack up my car so my meager explanation will have to do. Hope i was able to help someone.
Last edited by ArodDaLob; 12-13-12 at 01:50 AM.
#154
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
FYI..... there have been a lot of studies with airbags vs airbags with seatbelts and you are only gaining about a 10-15% increased chance of survival with your front airbag + seatbelt vs just your seatbelt
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21720604
#155
Lead Lap
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Just did this today, wish you would have emphasized the unplugging.
Quick tip, I slid the driver's seat all the way back before unhooking the battery, removed the footwell panel, and also leaned that corner of the carpet out of the way to give me more room to unplug the wires.
I took off the retaining clip on the airbag plug to make more room to unplug the big white plug.
P.S. - It's much more difficult on a manual since there's a clutch master cylinder, but still doable.
Quick tip, I slid the driver's seat all the way back before unhooking the battery, removed the footwell panel, and also leaned that corner of the carpet out of the way to give me more room to unplug the wires.
I took off the retaining clip on the airbag plug to make more room to unplug the big white plug.
P.S. - It's much more difficult on a manual since there's a clutch master cylinder, but still doable.
#156
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2012
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question about this thread... I purchased my car lowered and while in motion my car currently died. I removed the tire and noticed that the wire were rubbed into and exposed. I believe this is the problem but has anyone else experienced the same thing as I did? I am currently trying to fix the wires and hopefully the car will start again and then relocate the wires. so I am just curious has this happened to anyone else...
#158
Driver School Candidate
This is a great write up! I did it a few months ago and it just seems like the better option then to cut and add wires. Be patient with it and it will come out looking good under the hood and you get no more tire rubbing your harness.
#160
Footwell plugs hard to disconnect
For the guys that have done this, is there a trick to disconnecting the footwell plugs? They are hard to disconnect. Are there some tabs im suppose to push in or something? Because I dont see them, maybe I need a flash light, I worry that I might damage the plug/junction box. Its easy for the big plug but what about the other ones? Any help would be appreciated.
#161
Driver School Candidate
For the guys that have done this, is there a trick to disconnecting the footwell plugs? They are hard to disconnect. Are there some tabs im suppose to push in or something? Because I dont see them, maybe I need a flash light, I worry that I might damage the plug/junction box. Its easy for the big plug but what about the other ones? Any help would be appreciated.
Good Luck!
#162
Driver School Candidate
How in the world do I get this out of the metal piece? I tired cuttin a little piece but Im afraid of cutting to much If need be I will get another but I want to know what I can do
#164
Lexus Champion
man people do way too much work for this. all you need to do is tuck it up into the fender, it takes 5 minutes, there's no need to reroute into the engine bay. but whatever i guess.
#165
Driver School Candidate