SC300_704

iTrader: (5)

well as some of you know i keep running into problems w/ my build and now i have another issue. the PTE injectors high impedance that i bought was for the 2jzge but for some reason it won't fit the injector hole on the intake manifold like it should, not unless this injector wasn't what the seller described?

PTE injector



OEM injector



the circle/tip of the PTE injector is a little to big



side by side comparison. do anyone know if this is the right part # for a high impedance 550cc? i think it's really a 525cc...

good2go

iTrader: (6)

I ran into this exact same issue. I returned the injectors to Precision and had them machine the tip to conform to the stock NA intake. It was cheap to do, and I can tell you, if you don't do it, you'll never get a proper seal/seat on your injectors....plus, you'll basically be rubbing metal-on-metal inside your intake due to the improper fitment. In theory, you could be shedding metal debris into your cylinders I think I may have some old pics to show you what I mean. I'll look for them.

SC300_704

iTrader: (5)

i was told that this injector could be for the gs300 which is a little different than the sc300

That-Guy

iTrader: (1)

these aren't boostwerx injectors by any chance are they?

SC300_704

iTrader: (5)

no. i got them from Ryan Woon

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Yes you have to get them machime to fit the stock fuel rail unless you got with aftermarket fuel.
I got 1000cc getting them machine tomorrow.

SC300_704

iTrader: (5)

it fits the fuel rail but not the ports for the injectors on the IM. here's some pic of the modification i did to a spare IM. lmk what you guys think if it'll probably leak or if it's good and the PTE is actually in there tighter than the stock one.. btw i used a 7/16 drill bit iirc...

stock hole



modify hole









flush w/ the inside of the IM



stock injector

good2go

iTrader: (6)

Note, the following comments apply only if you are NOT looking for a quick and dirty ghetto solution on your project.



WHOA...STOP!! Please don't do that! I can see the metal burrs from here.

Listen, I've been right where you are and I considered doing exactly what you did, but I'll tell you why I didn't. You are destroying the seat for the toroid O-ring (square profile, like the stock injector uses) that you need to properly seat, locate, and seal the injector. You will never get a proper, lasting seal with a round O-ring...if you get one at all; you MUST use a "square type O-ring like the stock injectors. You need to consider that the fuel rail is located at a fixed height above the intake!!....think about that a minute! You have to establish the proper height of the injector, or you never get the fuel rail at the right height. You can shim the rail up slightly with some fine washers, but you can't drop it unless you do some more difficult machining. I called and spoke to Mike at Precision Turbo and got some excellent help from him. Basically, what they do is cut that fluted end off the (Mitsu style tip) injector that you have and slip a plastic collar around it that has outer dimensions that conform to the dimension of your stock injectors (pentle type tip). Then, you can use a stock square O-ring over the new plastic collar and properly establish a consistent height and seal for your injectors. When it was all done, I came out about .040 taller than stock injectors, so I had to use some .040 stainless washers to shim the fuel rail off of the mounts. This may be different on yours depending.

WHen I first got the injectors, I was told that all I needed to do was put the stock square injector O-rings on and I'd be fine... HA HA HA...good f***in luck. Even if I could stretch one to make it fit over the fluted end, it still wouldn't have sealed right and would allow the metal tip to hit the intake. As you can see below, I drew a picture to explain it to Mike.

The injectors I worked with, had had the upper shaft machined down on a lathe (Boostwerks, Dave H. maybe?? I think...dunno for sure, bought them unused, 2nd hand that way) so I mic'ed out how much it would penetrate up into the fuel rail and I determined they'd hit inside if I didn't shim the rail up. Ideally, you want a fuel injector that is tight in it's position, but still somewhat moveable (twistable),..... "suspended" firmly in the squish of the O-rings, but NOT so tight that there's no squish left; NO "direct" contact!!...they should "float". I recommend you use a machinist's dial type inside/ouside slide caliper and get some precise measurements so you know what you're working with there. Here's some pics of the injectors I worked with, and then one of the set AFTER modifying them






(I know, I'm no artist)


AFTER modification and with square washers installed:
note the black plastic tips replacing those fluted tips.

madmax98

we need more drawings lol

TroySC300

iTrader: (1)

Wow I learned a lot from this thread. Thanks

good2go

iTrader: (6)

careful what you wish for

no problem

SC300_704

iTrader: (5)

excellent explaination good2go. how much did it cost you to get the injectors modify like yours? as for the sharp edges i was gonna smooth it out today and the injectors is not really tight in there, i could wiggle it back and forth. i know it's shorter than the stock when connecting to the fuel rail that's why i was planning on using washers or modifying the stock washers so it'll fit good...i'm having a hard time w/ this issue! btw what did you mean by this comment? NO "direct" contact!!...they should "float"...do you mean the metal tip of the injector can't touch the inside of the manifold?

good2go

iTrader: (6)

I think they charged $10 each plus return shipping fees.

If you're going to go ahead with that method, be sure to properly size any O-rings you use; you need to be within its intended "squish" range for both the inside and outside dimensions. I think you'll find this is not really possible when you look into it further, unless you get some custom made O-rings...I spent countless hours on this...I DO KNOW! But, granted this assumes your tips are the same dimensions mine were (they sure look the same). Bottom line here, don't forget, this is GASOLINE UNDER PRESSURE that we're talking about here....keep a fire extinguisher handy if you're gonna re-engineer the seals on your own.

Yes, by my comment, I just meant there shouldn't be any direct contact of two "hard" surfaces (ie. spray tip to IM, upper tip to the inside or top of the fuel rail holes, any shoulders or edges on the injector body to fuel rail or IM, etc.), each injector should fit snugly, but with NO part of it touching anything that isn't rubbery, flexible material.

SC300_704

iTrader: (5)

just some update. i'm gonna go ahead and try my method and hope to god it doesn't leak...but if it do then i'll definitely send them off to PTE to get it modify. will definitely have a fire extinguisher handy.



they're on there tight can't even move them left and right, should i loosen them a bit?



i used 3 different size o rings that i got from the assorted o rings kit and it fits perfect



used 4 washers on each bolt

good2go

iTrader: (6)

Yea,.... though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil


G/L bro