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Cracked Radiator... please help guys

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Old 03-12-10, 11:58 AM
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SCrollinSD
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Arrow Cracked Radiator... please help guys

I hope this is in the right section.

So, as I was making my way from rain city Seattle down to my new home in San Diego, somewhere in mid to norcal i noticed smoke billowing out of my bay and my temperature gauge maxed out all the sudden. luckily, i pulled over at the first exit and was able to limp to a gas station where i bought some coolant and a temporary rubber cement patch kit (all they had). i tried putting some radiator stop leak in there too but it just made a mess and didnt stop the leak at all. lol.


so now that i made it down here, im looking for a more permanant DIY solution before I spend 300 dollars on a new radiator.


i will take some pics of the crack shortly and get them posted. I have bought some jb weld and an aluminum patch kit to go over the top of that, will be putting that on today and letting it cure for a full day before i try any driving and see if that works.




just wondering if anyone has experienced this before and has found something that works. i need to save money for paint BAD!!!!



thanks for the help. i'll keep the thread updated soon.
Old 03-12-10, 12:25 PM
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TLDriver
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if you have a 5 speed, I have a radiator I pulled out of my car. I would say I would help you out swapping it out but you would have to come up here. Just make sure your water pump and thermostat is working before just replacing parts. Finding out the cause of the radiator cracking would be a good thing.
Old 03-12-10, 12:36 PM
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I would definitely replace the radiator as opposed to trying to patch/repair it yourself. You could take it to a shop for proper repair, but the cost would probably exceed what you could pick up a used one for and DIY. G/L
Old 03-12-10, 12:53 PM
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it is a 5 speed swap. yeah, i figure i will end up having to replace it, but just trying to save money where I can. its not a huge crack by any means otherwise I wouldn't push my luck.

also, i don't think i'd ever pay a mechanic to replace a radiator. I've worked on cars from axles, driveshafts, coilovers, differentials, exhausts, etc. how hard can a radiator install be? a couple 14mm bolts, possibly would have to buy a few new clamps, but other than that its all pretty straight forward right?
Old 03-12-10, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TLDriver
if you have a 5 speed, I have a radiator I pulled out of my car. I would say I would help you out swapping it out but you would have to come up here. Just make sure your water pump and thermostat is working before just replacing parts. Finding out the cause of the radiator cracking would be a good thing.
honestly, i believe everything is in working order. it was more than likely neglect on my part to check my coolant levels. the overflow tank was topped off, but i did not top off the radiator housing itself. just poured the excess of what i had left. so after 700 miles or so, cruising at 80mph, i think its safe to say i just burned up what coolant was left, causing it to overheat and then the pressure just had to release somewhere.
Old 03-12-10, 01:00 PM
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Assuming your in SD? if your in the SGV i can help you mine cracked also. A temporary fix is by using JB weld make sure you sand the crack a bit then clean it then apply the JB weld. I dont have as much mechanical back as you but it is pretty straight forward.

I'll try to post up what i remember

1 Drain the radiator should be on the bottom driver side
2 Need to unbolt the radiator clamp on the right side x2 bolts and left side x2 bolts of the radiator
3 Remove battery/ battery tray if you don't the fan shroud will hit the tray
4 Go under the car there is part of the shroud you can take off its held on by 3? clips i believe
5 Unplug all the hose they are on tight have a container to catch the coolant (i yanked it super hard and coolant spilled on my face and back )
6 Unplug the top hose that connects to the engine
7 Remove radiator throw the shroud onto new radiator
8 Put everything back and plug everything in
9 Flush radiator couple of times till it becomes clear
10 Fill it up, bleed it, there is a bleeder bolt next to the drainage bolt on bottom driver side
11 Drive around for a bit, top off

Hmmm 11 steps seem complicated but easy, if you need any more help just ask GL

Last edited by abounly; 03-12-10 at 01:10 PM.
Old 03-12-10, 01:54 PM
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thanks man! yup, in SD now. yeah, hopefully the JB weld does the trick, at least for a few months till i can save up some more money. i'd rather fix other things than spend 300 on fixing a minimal sized crack right now.

pics up soon. thanks for the help so far everyone.
Old 03-12-10, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by sc300jz
Assuming your in SD? if your in the SGV i can help you mine cracked also. A temporary fix is by using JB weld make sure you sand the crack a bit then clean it then apply the JB weld. I dont have as much mechanical back as you but it is pretty straight forward.

I'll try to post up what i remember

1 Drain the radiator should be on the bottom driver side
2 Need to unbolt the radiator clamp on the right side x2 bolts and left side x2 bolts of the radiator
3 Remove battery/ battery tray if you don't the fan shroud will hit the tray
4 Go under the car there is part of the shroud you can take off its held on by 3? clips i believe
5 Unplug all the hose they are on tight have a container to catch the coolant (i yanked it super hard and coolant spilled on my face and back )
6 Unplug the top hose that connects to the engine
7 Remove radiator throw the shroud onto new radiator
8 Put everything back and plug everything in
9 Flush radiator couple of times till it becomes clear
10 Fill it up, bleed it, there is a bleeder bolt next to the drainage bolt on bottom driver side
11 Drive around for a bit, top off

Hmmm 11 steps seem complicated but easy, if you need any more help just ask GL
Party at his house... I'll bring the radiator.. LOL
Old 03-12-10, 02:54 PM
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You can get a used radiator for aliga for like 80$ thats where i got mines from, it was in good condition.

For JB to work somewhat correctly, you need to clean the area, sand it down pretty good clean and apply. Apply the JB weld on is pita just make it smooth and pray that it works.
Old 03-12-10, 02:59 PM
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hahahah. hell yeah! i don't have the tools right now so i'd have to have a helping hand or two.
is it the standard OEM radiator? i can't figure out if my OEM is made of plastic or ceramic or what?

i'd really like to get my hands on an aluminum radiator so this problem never happens again.




anyways, the JB weld is curing as we speak. i can't find the chord for the camera yet so pics will have to wait. hope this at least fixes it to be driveable for a while.


TLDriver; i'll pm you later on and talk business. I'm broke so help a fellow CLer out!! :P
Old 03-12-10, 03:02 PM
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sc300jz, unfortunately my pops doesn't have any sandpaper or many tools of the trade for working on cars. once i get a job down here i'll definitely invest in a good toolset/jackstands and a low pro jack/etc.

but, that being that case, all i was able to do is wipe it down as clean as i could with a towel and microfiber, then i just applied right over that. i put a pretty liberal coating on though, so if this stuff actually hardens like it claims it does i can't see it leaking. the crack is, as i've said, pretty small. just found the chord so ill upload the pics now so you all can see.
Old 03-12-10, 03:09 PM
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as you can see, theres two small cracks, the entire thing spanning maybe 3-4 inches. and this ones for size reference.

Old 03-12-10, 03:45 PM
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Mine crack like that also, you gotta let it sit over night with air circulation so it hardens 100%

I applied about 2 layers of the JB weld and it still continue to leak some how assume just major pressure the top of the radiator is plastic.

I think you should be fine, just jb weld it take it easy on the throttle and keep checking your coolant level when i checked mine i was missing about 25% of my coolant.
Old 03-12-10, 04:37 PM
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yeah, its sitting in the garage with the hood open right now. gonna let it sit till tomorrow before i drive it anywhere or top off the coolant.

when yours was still leaking could you visibly see it was still coming from the same spot?

i think sometime tonight when its pretty well cured i will mix another batch and put some more over top just for extra reassurance. and if that doesn't work, then I'll just have to bite the bullet on this and source a new radiator.
Old 03-12-10, 04:50 PM
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Yeah it was still leaking from the same spot plus i needed a new radiator anyways my coolant came out brown/ rusted color. Just top it off now and then till you get your new radiator


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