MR_Clean

Hey all, I'm pretty new to CL and this is my first post with a few Q's on the car. I am a recovering DSM fanatic and have had my fair share of high HP DSM's and done about everything there is to do with the car's but got tired of always having issues so figured I'd move onto something with a better reputation.

I purchased a 95 SC300 about a year ago and have been overlooking threads on this forum for sometime but never really had any questions so have not posted. Well, now I do.

My T-Stat decided it was time to go to the afterlife and stuck on me while I was driving on the freeway. Unfortunately for me I didnt realize the cars temp gauge was pegged until I heard the car pinging and at that point I'm afraid it was too late. So, on to my question(s).

I am in the process of tearing the car apart to replace the gasket and have overread some people talking about putting a GTE head on a GE bottom end. I am not certain I will even need a new head but If all else fails and I do, I wanted to consider this option. So I guess my question is first off how involved doing that would be and secondly where to source parts. I have 100% faith in my ability to do just about anything mechanical so I'm not too worried about that as long as I have detailed instructions on "how-to" and money is obviously an issue as it is with any normal human being. I dont mean I'm a cheap skate but I dont want to spend 3k to put the head on when I can repair it to stock for about 300 bucks.

So, in overview I guess my questions are based on if this is a viable option, can be done for a reasonable amount and within reasonable time and within reasonable fabrication (limited to basic tools-albeit a million of them), So if anyone can chime in that has experience or can throw me a link to a good write-up, it would be appreciated.

t70 supra

iTrader: (-4)

1jz complete contact jhot they sell GREATMOTORS or use your 2jz block and a complete 1jz for a 1.5jz or use a usdm or jdm 2jz-gte. an NA 2jz block and gte wont fit cause if it did everyone would have dont it by now it be the b16 of toyotas

MR_Clean

OK great, I'll look into JHot and see what pricing is like. One of the other reasons I wanted to consider this option is because of the design of the intake manifold on the GE motor. I think its retarded how they routed it. Takes me 45 min just to change spark plugs? Ill do some more searching on how this 1.5JZ swap is done. I wanted to avoid removing the entire motor as I dont have a cherry picker anymore and this would cause a lot of complications for me.

Thanks for the input!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

did you just say you cannot put a 2jz-gte head on a 2jz-ge block?
cause in fact you can and they bolt up just fine. I thought everyone knew this.

to the OP, you can bolt any non-vvti gte head (1jz or 2jz) onto your 2jz-ge block pretty easily. you may have to change out a few things like waterpump but im not really sure. basically all the stuff you would be doing anyways if you chose to repair your stock head.

keep in mind you will need a gte engine harness or you will have to modify yours to work. Mainly the ignition is different and a few sensors here and there. you will also need the ecu, coilpacks, sensors, etc. there are many threads about this exact swap.

MR_Clean

LOL yea, This is why, even though I read threads, I always double check. I looked at JHot and all they have available is the VVT-i motors. I checked out JDMSource and they have engines available...oddly enough the 2JZGTTE is cheaper then the 1JZ?

@Ali- So doing this would basically make my car a GTE with a weaker bottom end? I plan to replace the water pump anyhow so thats not an issue for me. I've heard the bottom ends hold up pretty well on the GE blocks and If I do put on a GTE head I dont plan to push more then 10-12lbs of boost on stock turbos. If I change that in the future I'd obviuosly do fuel/internal modifications as necessary.

Are there any other SC300/400 forums that have classified sections? I have not done a lot of browsing and definetly dont know of any reputable forums/sites.

Would the modification to the harness consist of the same thing as changing the entire motor over (extended/altered body plugs)?

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

You can go to supraforums.com or clubna-t.com

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Basically all the JZ engine are interchangeable, i wouldn't put a 2JZGTE head on a GE block because by the time you buy the GTE head, cams, Coils, Harness, ECU,TT WP, TT Oil Pump, Crank sensor, HG,Bypass hose , map sensor, ignitor......etc
You better just get the GTE swap for $1700, at leat that what anybody would...
because it's not worth it ,alot of work and it will cost you more at the end.
I was thinking about going that route also when i got in the SC game.
But you will end up spending more money and specially if you are not doing the work yourself ,and not that am saying you can't do it.
I think the cheapest way is the 1.5JZ you can get the head, cams, coils,intake, Valve covers,water bypass hose for around ~300-500.
Buy 2jzgte harness and ECU with 440cc injectors!! Why 2jzgte? because the crappy 1jz ECu go bad all the time sir, 7 out of 10 has the capacitors replaced.
Oh the GE block is just as strong as GTE but they are a little difference internally.
Guys on SF made 900rwhp on the GE block, so i really don't care about the GTE block.
Do some research there is alot of info on this board and SF , weight you options first before you start spending money.
GL

CP_Ree

iTrader: (1)

As a fellow high-er hp ex-DSMer, I say just throw a headgasket in it, boost the hell out of , and do not get a 1jz EVER. It's kinda like having a built 2.4 G4CS/4G64 and throwing a stock *** 4g63 back in.

As for the GTE head, getting all the components will be expensive. Heads are like $5-700, then you gotta get cams(stock TT ones are like $50-200 depending on who's selling them), and intake manifold(upper and lower off a TT (stock) is like $1-200), turbo manifold + turbo along with the coils and the wiring harness(stock twins could be kinda cheap but still a couple hundred-or you can go single and that'll be $1500+ if you get a GOOD turbo and even use an ebay manifold)-harness will be a couple hundo (~$3-400). I've looked into this option quite a few times and it just doesn't seem to be very cost effective when pricing/peicing it all out.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Are you serious what wrong with the 1JZ?
Why do think people can't make some good power with the 1JZ?
I guess i have never been on SF!!!
Here you go, and enjoy
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=305759

CP_Ree

iTrader: (1)

I am the true 1jz hater. I don't think it can't make power...I know it can make power. I am very against losing displacement. Bigger Displacement + bigger turbo will always make more power and have the bigger powerband in the long run.

Put a 1jz in a 240sx, or a bare sc300 shell, sure, fine. Put one in an sc300 when there was a perfectly good 2jz in there already? nothnx.

And I've been on SF since '02.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yes you are right, doing this will make your car a gte basically, but I wouldnt call the bottom end weaker. there is a certain power level where you actually don't want oil squirters in the bottom end, which is one of the 2 main differences in the blocks. the other is the lower compression pistons in the GTE but the GE uses the same material so one could argue its just as strong. with a TT headgasket it will lower the compression on the GE block enough to not matter.

Listen to my man quickGS. hes doing the exact same thing right now and really knows his stuff. you can get a 2jzgte auto swap for under 2k easily, slap on some parts from your ge (oil pan etc. depending on what swap you get) and drop that bad boy in. all you have to do is extend the harness.

If you do want to slap a head on you old block it is more economical to go with a 1jz head over a 2jz head. either will work. For buying serious engine components I would browse over at supraforums. Ive seen complete heads for sale quite often. as for engine swaps, Jhot is where I would buy from, but they have been getting less supply and I believe there is a waiting line.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

OP Those are the 3 options and hope you make the right choice Good luck.
I almost bought another 1JZGTE swap W/O ECU and valve Cover for $400 another member picked it up before me.

MR_Clean

Thanks to everyone who has responded. I definetly have my options, as I can now see. I talked to a guy a while back and he gave me the wrong impression of the 2JZGTE cost. He was saying in the $4k range and after looking on my own I see that just isnt true. There are not many places you can get a 100hp increase for a couple thousand dollars.

I am highly considering this option of a complete swap. If not now, very near in the future. As of now the SC was used as my DD and I have an 11 second 66 VW Bug that I use as my toy. I want to sale the bug and put a little extra cash into the SC and maybe buy another one for a DD.

I guess I'll keep an eye out at JHot for a non-VVT-i motor and see if I can come up on a deal.

Anyone know the appx. weight of a 5spd 2JZGTE swapped SC300?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

about the same as a stock 5spd sc300, maybe add little weight for the turbos.
the 5 spd is slightly lighter than the auto in stock form so the swap would be comparable to your auto in weight.

MR_Clean

Well I've been trying to source parts and it seems its going to take a little time to not only gain the knowledge on what to do but to get parts in as good of shape as possible so I've decided, for the time being, to put the car back to stock. The head is not warped and I can reuse it and that also was one of my deciding factors. I took it into the machine shop today to get pressure tested/resurfaced.

I had another question on head bolts/studs. Since I am going back to stock is there any reason to have to use ARP studs or some other aftermarket type of stud vs. using an OE replacement? Has anyone had any luck with OE replacements when just going back to stock. I dont want to put a part on my car that is going to fail me but staying stock I dont see the need to use a 200k psi rated bolt.

I used ARP's on all my built DSM's and NEVER had a problem with them stretching...even at 35psi. I just feel this might be a bit overkill for the situation and dont see any posts about OE bolts and how they work, what brand to use etc.

Anyone that has input or experience please chime in and give me some directions if you would. Thanks a million.