CLRH2O

So I've got the Whirring/Electric Motor sounding noise coming from my tranny/bell housing area beneath the car. It started 3 evenings ago. I've made sure it's not an Electrical sound, made sure it's not the Power Steering pump and it's not a main belt sound (not coming from the front of engine).

All of the above is the result of two days of searching here on the boards. And although I thought I'd come close in nailing a few posts that sounded like people were having the same exact problem as I - once in a few pages everyone said some other *part* was the solution (so many times it was the PSP). But I've been over and over my PSP and it's most certainly NOT what's making the noise :/ This is very much at the bell area of the tranny beneath and to the rear of the engine.

My Lex is an Automatic Tran 1993 SC400 with 157k miles on it. Original owner had it dealer serviced up until 107k when I bought it and I've done the regular maintenance as needed since. I also don't drive like a maniac so besides getting on it to get up the interstate ramp it's pretty much a cruiser

I've checked my Autotrans fluid level it's good, the color is still redish and not very brown and there is not *burnt* smell that I can detect really.

The sound increases and decreases in pitch/speed with the increase and decrease of throttle applied, both in Neutral and in Drive (or any gear for that matter).


The mechanic suggests that the pump filter within the Transmission has become clogged with something that might have broken off of the torque converter and it (the tranny pump) is being starved for fluid. Is this sound and accurate information? Does the tranny pump operate at a rotational frequency related to the speed of the engine RPM even if the tranny it's self is disengaged from the flywheel? Is this why I hear an change in pitch relational to the amount of throttle applied even with the tranny in neutral?

What he has initially suggested is actually a new filter, new fluid and new Torque Converter to start, with a estimate of around 700 dollars for the parts and work. And if that doesn't work, then an entirely new transmission for somewhere around 2000 dollars (he did not specify if that 2k includes labor costs)

I'm on a shoestring budget like you would not believe and even 700 dollars is a huge price to swallow right now. Information is key at this stage and I could really use some input from the heads here. Your thoughts CL Crew?

Thank you in advance

vegas_sc4

iTrader: (1)

i would say change the filter and fluid and see if it still does it. u can always get a trans from a junkyard too.

CLRH2O

To replace the filter, what's the mechanical procedure? I mean does it take the same amount of work as detaching the bellhousing of the tranny from the block just the same as he'd have to in order to remove and replace the Torque Converter?

And what can I expect the prices of Transmission pump filters to be you think?

On that same tip - any clue what used transmissions for the 93 year SC4 go for?

I'm going to be doing my own research into this as well obviously, but it never hurts to ask here too right

LEX_MAN

iTrader: (2)

Changing the fluid and filter are not hard, just very messy .

Theres a transmssion pan under the tranny, its held by about 24 bolts(aroung the pan)

just drain the fluid, then unscrew the bolts and remove the pan and you will see the filter thats held by 3 bolts i think. The filter is metal with a metal mesh window.Hard to miss.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Damn hope you don't need a new trans...

CLRH2O

Filter and fluid sound like something I can do myself....

I wonder why I am CONSTANTLY hearing horror stories of people having changed their transmission fluid and then all of a sudden their transmission goes DONK...?

What's with that?


And back on topic, assuming I do this (or have the mechanic do it) first step and nothing changes.... would the torque converter be the next step still, I'm assuming so.

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

These stories are more about transmission FLUSHES on high mileage trannys w/ poor maintainence. It's caused when residue from the clutch packs wearing down, clogging up the filter (i prefer it more as a strainer) and, after that is clogged all the way up, clogs up all the corners of the transmission. After a flush, that extra residue clogs all corners of the tranny and starts causing more problems like slipping and overheating.

If the last owner was good with the car, check his records and see when the last time the tranny was flushed. If it's beyond 70-80k then it might be better to start searching for a new tranny. If not, go with the flush first, see what happens, then go with the converter and pump replacement (if the pump is needed)

Spitfire86

Have you replaced your engine mounts and transmission mounts yet? Those can make a pretty loud noise when they're worn.

CLRH2O

Spitfire86 - Yes, did the tranny mount myself (very easy) and when I had the new starter put in @ 146k I had the guy also put in both new engine mounts. All three mounts are within 7k or so miles of use - really new.

StiCK3 - There's a sticker on the windshield from Lexus of Palm Beach, can I just call them with the VIN and ask these questions? Will they give me answers even though I'm not the owner who had the car with them at the time?... or I guess I can social engineer it and probably get some records info. We'll have to see on that tomorrow.

Going on the train of thought that it's a well kept tranny, and the flush was within 70 to 80k of my current 154k what is the cost of a full flush (what's it? 12 litres or something?) with Toyota Type 4. I'm assuming I'll need 24 Litres - 12 to flush then 12 to fill? This would be if I did it myself. Anyone know off the top of thier heads what a mechanic will charge for Filter(strainer, I agree) replacement and full flush refill with Toyo Type 4 and labor?

CLRH2O

I'm back with an update.

I drained the tranny pan and changed the filter. Whirring noise is gone.

But for how long - that's the real question I think.

Inspection of the filter/strainer showed and *I thought* to be a fair amount of chunky goopyness in there.,..... although maybe not enough to clog the whole thing up? Then again, I've no basis for comparison and no idea how the strainer might look under operation. Then, in the pan there was a very weird gray/silvery goop that was collecting on the magnets themselves.... possibly a really super fine metallic sludge? As for actual metal shavings or chips, only 4 or 5 very VERY tiny ones were found after cleaning off all the magnets.

For the time being everything seems to be great again My plan of action from here is to change out another 2 1/2 quarts of tranny fluid each oil change slowly replacing the entire fluid content of the tranny over time in hopes of avoiding the "shock" situation that people seem to describe where pathways in the valve plane get clogged and screw everything up as a possible result of an all at once flush.

Anyone want to weigh on this? Maybe let me know anything I should be looking and listening for for the next few weeks just in case? I still plan on trying to contact the lex dealer that serviced the car in it's first 107k miles so I can know what service was done when - but in the meantime this is where everything stands.

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

Just tell them you have a car that was serviced there and that you are a new owner of the car and give them the VIN. Get this all the time here (work a a 'yota dealership).

dwebb99

iTrader: (17)

As a side note, make darn sure you service your differential fluid as well,(often over looked). personally I have always liked Red Line products. These Toyota's/Lexus's will run darn near forever if you stick with regular maintenance schedules!

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

It's good that you fixed the issue without shedding $700 to the mechanic's BS. It's very common that they tell you something BS for you to pay, then they just do a little to fix. If the noise is gone, then probably it's really gone. Otherwise, you'll hear the noise again because the broken part is still there. Keep in mind that the SC400 tranny and torque converter rarely have any issue even after 200K miles if they're maintained well.

Change the Diff. fluid as someone had mentioned. Also check the driveshaft bushings (front & rear).

If the tranny really has a problem, you can buy a used tranny for cheap. It's about $250-$300. Then pay about $300 for labor. There's no need to pay $2000 while the car is $150K miles without any hi-performance mod. The other way to have a spanking new rebuilt tranny is buy a complete tranny overhaul kit for $350, pay $400 to a tranny specialist to put the kit in the tranny, and pay a total of $300 to remove the tranny and reinstallation. Many mechanic shops just charge you a high dollar for the tranny job is because they're basically the middle man. They only remove the tranny, send the tranny to a real tranny specialist for the rebuild, and after it's done, they'll put it back.

CLRH2O

dwebb99 & Stevechumo - thanks for the info guys

I'll lookup the diff info next weekend before running outside to change the oil and do another 2 1/2 quarts on the tranny. If it's something I can sort out the materials for by the weekend and the process isn't too time consuming I'll do it at the same time... I just realized I could REALLY use another two jack stands LOL

I tried Ramps once... but our front end is too long and low for both sets I attempted to use (just pushed the ramps instead of drove up on them)

And Steve, again, good info on the tranny prices. I do generally trust this mechanic, but facts are facts and *business is business* I guess LOL. It's reasons exactly like this I do so much of the wrenching on my car with my own hands as I do. Research, gather, execute

CLRH2O

About a half year ago (actually it was 7 months now wasn't it) I was having some light trouble.

Things were - for the most part, working as the car should work after replacing all my tranny fluid with new Type-IV and a new transmission fluid filter...

But I am back - and it's with concern.

Today is a BLISTERING day in Florida. I've had about a billion places to make it to and all within 3 to 6:30 pm within city limits and of course, in retarded traffic. Although my temp indicator has run steady where it should be all day, just before making it home I noticed that the car was having a very VERY hard time switching gears leaving from stop lights and such. Then, at one point going from park to Reverse (leaving the Grocery as the last stop before home) it simply sat there... until I applied a fair amount of throttle and then there was some movement. Leaving the parking lot of the grocery from a dead stop and entering the roadway I heard a very audible Whirring noise. That good old sound that increases in pitch as you increase the motor's RPMs which is obviously mechanical in nature but most easily described as an "electric motor" sound.. but gravelly and loud.

Anyway, the whole way home for about 3/4 of a mile the transmission would over rev in RPM far past where it should have under normal throttle application before changing gears - or sometimes never changing gears until I released throttle and reapplied to find some happy place it would nudge into the next gear at - all the while the whirring/groveley sound was there.

So - I'm home, unhappy the car seems to have instantly gone from working great to something horribly wrong in one trip around town - and looking for some insight and thoughts from you lot again


I hope I've described all this correctly. Car is off and cooling in the car port outside atm - will go out and check the Oil and Tranny fluid levels momentarily.


You know what the sound reminded me of? Think about any old beater looking car you've ever seen riding around town that has this super loud power steering pump sound blasting out from under thier hood. I know you've heard this. THAT is what the sound sounded like.... but my steering was fine - and a power steering pump making noise wouldn't affect my gears not shifting right or the tranny I cant imagine right?! I mean, I'm not a seasoned auto mechanic, but I am 35 and've worked on about 6 engines all the way from replacing heads on an inline 6 mustang, and valves on v-6 MX-6 to brakes, struts/shocks and all manner of standard bolt on stuff... I mean, I know a *few* things - but am I just clueless on this one somehow? lol

Thanks for any time you guys can contribute - I really need some help here.