ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

The bottom nut that holds the alternator in - is it a 15 MM nut? I couldn't get 14 or 15 to work right, they both ended up stripping the nut.

So I'll need a new nut, 15mm?

People mentioned Sears EZ out tools to get the nuts off. Sound about right?

Thank you much!

lemmiewink

Not sure of the size. You could always take out the stud that the nut is on, which you need a star socket for.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I thought about that and looked at the other side. There's no head on it from what I could see. It's like built into that bracket?

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

You should try a standard size socket if the metrics don't fit quite tight enough. 12pt and 6pt sockets fit a little differently. What kind of socket did you use?

If you used 12pt, try a 6pt socket or vice a versa.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I used a 6 point. 12 point won't fit at all. It's pretty much rounded out now. I'm stuck. Well, both the nut and I are stuck. Hah.

lemmiewink

Its from the front side of the engine. Look at the end of the stud, you will see a star shaped head. Go to auto zone and get a star socket to fit it.

I'll take a picture and post it tomorrow if you still are stuck.

For some reason, this bracket as well as the ac compressor bracket, it is easier to remove the stud the nut is on.

The ac compressor ,more often then not,actually seizes on the stud and it is almost required to unscrew the stud itself.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Hi,

In the attached picture I circled where the nut would be. Like you said, it's the one that would be facing the front of the car if you were looking up from under the plastic skid guard. The nut is right in front of the sway bar.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I think the nut is a M10 1.50 which is a 15mm inner diameter.

Also, does anyone know how to get the black plastic cover off the +12v lead?

Thank you,

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I just called Lexus parts and from the diagram they sent me, the part number should be 90179-10141. I had to order it for $2.00

lemmiewink

Ok, the stud that the nut is on needs to be taken out at this point. Look at that rod and you will see the star shaped head.

Why would you wan't to take off the cover?

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I guess I forgot to mention. I'm replacing the alternator. I need to get both wires unplugged. I guess I can pull out the plastic clip one with pliers to push in the safety clip. For the +12v, don't I need to remove the plastic cover to see the bolt?

Why do I need to pull out the stud? I do see the star shaped head.

lemmiewink

Because doing so will allow you to "bypass" that stripped nut. You will be able to take off the alternator without taking that nut off.


Ok on the 12v, there is a rubber dome looking cover. You should be able to just pull it off the bolt and you will be able to see it.

Try not to over squeeze the pliers, you might break the tab.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Ahh I see!! The other side, what size is the head/nut? I don't remember seeing a way to get it off.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I got the flange nut from the dealer. It's 14mm. Just like the one I got from the store. Duh

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Finally. A friend came by who actually had the strength required to get that nut off. We had to use a torque wrench (tsk tsk) because it was the longest wrench I had to get the right leverage. It was really stuck on there. He's a big guy and it took a lot of effort.

The bolt is really strange. The nut is fixed on the bolt about 1/2" from the top. When you get the nut loose the whole thing comes out. If anyone is having trouble with this one try lubricating the other size where the bolt screws in; you can't see that side. What lemmewink is referring to about the star is the top of the bolt closest to the nut. It's odd, I should have taken a picture. I don't know if that nut is supposed to be stuck where it's at but there's no way it was coming off.

The bolt looks SORT OF like this.