DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

I read a build thread where the guy said that he drilled his return hole 1/2"

He said that he highly recommends drilling it 5/7" tho.

I bought a holesaw that was 3/4" but the OEM (predrilled) hole is MUCH bigger then 3/4"

Here is a picture of the gasket that came with my Boostlogic lines. The hole in the gasket is the exact size of the OEM hole.





My question is, should i just drill the hole flush with the size of the OEM hole?

The way i see it is, if i drill it 3/4th there will always be a puddle of oil sitting between the return flange and the hole.

But if i drill it flush with the OEM hole, it will go right back into the pan.

Just wondering what you guys thought of that, pro's and cons.

What would be the best thing to do? would it even matter?

Also what did you guys with flanges like mine do?

1siksc

iTrader: (8)

For perfection drill to size. Otherwise it's just a return hole.

CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

what he said... its just a hole.
If you want to know for your own satisfaction that its perfect, then spend the extra time but dont worry if you dont... you probably wont blow anything up.

DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

Sick, thanks.

That's what i wanted to know!

Just wasn't sure why alot of people don't just drill it to size

ahhyes300

iTrader: (2)

I just pilot drilled the two bolt holes, and used self-tapping bolts from Ace. For the big hole I believe I used a 3/4" bit.

DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

So there is Absolutely NO pressure between the flange and the pan?

In other words, as long as the gasket is on there and it's tightened down kind of snug, it's not going to leak?

meangreen1

iTrader: (13)

Dont worry about it. Very easy. Just make sure you clean out all the metal partials.

1siksc

iTrader: (8)

I had a problem with one of my fittings thanks to going cheap. Checkout summit Racing and spend the money. I think it's like 14 dollars.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...d/?Ns=Rank|Asc

DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

I definatly didn't go cheap.

I bought boostlogic lines to go with my precision billet 6262 DBB turbo

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

be warned, i hope your pan is off the car. I used the same tool to cut my hole and shavings were EVERYWHERE

That-Guy

iTrader: (1)

yes... for the love of GODDD, there needs to be a giant flaming sticky at the top of every forum with na-t 2jz discussion that is soley for warnings of removing the oil pan before drilling. Aluminum is not magnetic, once the shavings are in there (and they are... alot of them) its just a matter of time.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

i drilled with the pan on the car and didnt get one shaving in the pan.
if you use a hole saw like that you will get shavings in the pan.
use a step bit (like most of us) covered in grease and drill a few mm at a time.
pull it out, wipe it off, cover in grease, repeat till your through.
and when you poke through just barely, go even slower with more grease.

if you take your time dong this you will not get any shavings in the pan.
spending the extra 15 min while drilling will save you the headache of dropping the oil pan and having resealing issues. also when using a step bit, there is no washer sized piece to worry about falling into the pan if your planning on not removing it.

for the size of the hole, just make sure it is not larger than the gasket's hole. plain and simple.
Do it right, do it the first time, cause it sucks to take off all your piping and your compressor housing if you need to adjust anything later down the road.

also, make sure your pcv system is set up correctly. if the crank case is not able to relieve pressure properly the first place it will leak out of is your drain line/fittings. so all those no pressure fittings instantly get pressure and they leak. I just took all my fittings and lines off and redid them, only to find out they were just fine. the culprit was my catch can was not letting the crank case vent sufficiently. i run a breather now with no problems whatsoever.

DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for your input.

I drilled the hole successfully with the hole saw. I kept checking and checking on how thin i was getting and was able to stick a screwdriver in and yank the metal piece right out. I flushed the shavings with 6 quarts of oil.

I also accidently drilled threw the pan on the bottom hole, Will this be a problem? I tightened everything up good without over tightening it.. It doesnt seem like it would leak at all. Should i be concerned?

Also... I JUST noticed about the PCV valve... No one ever told me in any NA-T write up that i read, to cap off where your PCV goes into your intake.

I thought about it, And realized all of the boost pressure would go into there.. wtf.

I'm guessing i just cap it off and run both The PCV and the other hole on the other valve cover out to a catch can? correct?

Should i recirculate a third line from the catch can into my intake pipe?

I Have a precision billet 6262 DBB and I deff don't want any oil getting in there

What would be the best way to run it or vent it? If i should vent it i'd like to keep the smell to a minimum.

100mgbluep

iTrader: (1)

Are you keeping your original intake plenum? If so you wont need to mess with your pcv valve, i think you got your pcv valve (cold side valve cover) mixed up with the valve breather on the hot side. Theres a breather that connects to your intake piping, run that hose and the valve breather to a catch can.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

IF I were you when first installing don't even bother messing with the catch can.
if you dont set it up just right it will cause issues.
put a breather on the exhaust side crank case.

for the intake side that runs into the plenum you have 2 options.
1. leave as is connected to plenum (the pcv (purple thing) has a check valve so when you are boosting it will not pressurize the crank case). but also realize when you are boosting you are not releasing the pressure out here either. only when you go back into vacuuum. not really a huge issue, but the oil vapors will effectively lower your octane going into the engine, just like stock.

2. use that line coming off the plenum as a vac source instead for your wastegate or a boost gauge (I actually run both off that with a T) and put a breather on the pcv case.

once your car is tuned and running normal start messing with the catch can setups.
the 2jz is very picky about blow by gasses. trust me. i know what im talking about.
If you decide you must run lines everywhere to a catch can, use a hose with a very large inner diameter, and preferably one you can see through. it is also best that the can see some vacuum instead of venting to the air, so you can run it to the pipe in front of your turbo (your turbo and I/C piping will get oily).
i tried running lines to the can and venting to air, and I got pressure building up.
maybe if you run the shortest lines in the world and perfectly routed it may work, but it can still cause problems and guess what? it still smells..

oh and for your bolts it will be fine. put some thread sealer on the threads when you put the bolts in and you could also use a crush washer.