Pulling my 1uz-fe out of the SC400
09-09-09, 03:23 AM
#16
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Here's some exterior pics. I know some people love it and some hate it.... but check the Mustang Bullits. I bought 20" Shelby rims for the Shelby GT, so these were laying around and looked much better than the chrome paint chipped stockers.
Yuck!
Maybe!
F%^& Yeah!
I just found some wheel spacers in the garage. I'm going to bring the rears out a bit to give it a more aggressive look.
Yuck!
Maybe!
F%^& Yeah!
I just found some wheel spacers in the garage. I'm going to bring the rears out a bit to give it a more aggressive look.
09-09-09, 06:31 AM
#18
You don't need to pull the headers or first set of cats to get the motor out. It's easier once it's out.
Motor and transmission comes out together.
Mark your driveshaft flanges on the trans and rear diff. Put it back exactly the same way it comes out. It has to be 'in phase'
Mods you should be looking at are... LSD rear diff, w58/r154/v160 Manual trans conversion, exhaust, headers, if staying auto a tranny cooler and a torque converter, nitrous kit, solid/new motor mounts, supra tt brakes, and coilovers.
If you're planning on going the forced induction route by super or turbo charging then you should build the motor while you're doing all the gaskets. New bearings, forged con-rods, and forged pistons. Headstuds are good, but valve jobs and cams aren't really necessary. If you stay NA it won't make that big of an improvement with factory ecu. Plus there are 4 cams and 32 valves. It adds up quick! Forced induction is way better bang for the buck!
Personally if the motor that's in there runs fine, I wouldn't tear it apart. Find out which gasket is bad and replace it. I'd pick up a spare 1uz for $500 and build that. That way the car stays running to have fun with while you start the build.
Motor and transmission comes out together.
Mark your driveshaft flanges on the trans and rear diff. Put it back exactly the same way it comes out. It has to be 'in phase'
Mods you should be looking at are... LSD rear diff, w58/r154/v160 Manual trans conversion, exhaust, headers, if staying auto a tranny cooler and a torque converter, nitrous kit, solid/new motor mounts, supra tt brakes, and coilovers.
If you're planning on going the forced induction route by super or turbo charging then you should build the motor while you're doing all the gaskets. New bearings, forged con-rods, and forged pistons. Headstuds are good, but valve jobs and cams aren't really necessary. If you stay NA it won't make that big of an improvement with factory ecu. Plus there are 4 cams and 32 valves. It adds up quick! Forced induction is way better bang for the buck!
Personally if the motor that's in there runs fine, I wouldn't tear it apart. Find out which gasket is bad and replace it. I'd pick up a spare 1uz for $500 and build that. That way the car stays running to have fun with while you start the build.
Last edited by UpInTheLex; 09-09-09 at 06:35 AM.
09-09-09, 02:47 PM
#19
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I've always been more of a straight line racing enthusiast, so over the years I have gotten used to higher sidewalls. I like low profile tires, but they aren't the best for what I like to use the car for. I think they look great on show cars and the average street tuner.
This is all great information. I really appreciate the time you took on this. My only concern is accidentally over looking something and putting the motor back in and the engine won't work. Part of the reason I am making this thread is to force myself to take pictures of the progress and other pictures for reference when I put everything back in.
Since I am new to the forum and the SC world, information on converting the transmission is helpful. The only downside to this car is that it is an automatic.... that is pretty much why I chose to run the nitrous line right away (so my wife can drive it and spray when she wants the power). The other reason for choosing nitrous is because I have an internet based business in which I sell kits, but since I don't sponsor this forum, I won't mention the name so I don't violate any rules.
I found a minor coolant leak and believe that there is an oil leak somewhere along the lines, so pulling the motor will allow me to see the specific location of the oil leak that I can't visually pinpoint. I do want to upgrade the internals, but I don't really want to advertise that too much in case I choose not to based on my budget. I don't want to be one of those guys who says I'm going to build a 700hp car by adding 6 turbo's 3 superchargers and a 35 shot of nitrous.
Any good sites out there or reputable brands of any of the parts you had mentioned above?
You don't need to pull the headers or first set of cats to get the motor out. It's easier once it's out.
Motor and transmission comes out together.
Mark your driveshaft flanges on the trans and rear diff. Put it back exactly the same way it comes out. It has to be 'in phase'
Mods you should be looking at are... LSD rear diff, w58/r154/v160 Manual trans conversion, exhaust, headers, if staying auto a tranny cooler and a torque converter, nitrous kit, solid/new motor mounts, supra tt brakes, and coilovers.
If you're planning on going the forced induction route by super or turbo charging then you should build the motor while you're doing all the gaskets. New bearings, forged con-rods, and forged pistons. Headstuds are good, but valve jobs and cams aren't really necessary. If you stay NA it won't make that big of an improvement with factory ecu. Plus there are 4 cams and 32 valves. It adds up quick! Forced induction is way better bang for the buck!
Personally if the motor that's in there runs fine, I wouldn't tear it apart. Find out which gasket is bad and replace it. I'd pick up a spare 1uz for $500 and build that. That way the car stays running to have fun with while you start the build.
Motor and transmission comes out together.
Mark your driveshaft flanges on the trans and rear diff. Put it back exactly the same way it comes out. It has to be 'in phase'
Mods you should be looking at are... LSD rear diff, w58/r154/v160 Manual trans conversion, exhaust, headers, if staying auto a tranny cooler and a torque converter, nitrous kit, solid/new motor mounts, supra tt brakes, and coilovers.
If you're planning on going the forced induction route by super or turbo charging then you should build the motor while you're doing all the gaskets. New bearings, forged con-rods, and forged pistons. Headstuds are good, but valve jobs and cams aren't really necessary. If you stay NA it won't make that big of an improvement with factory ecu. Plus there are 4 cams and 32 valves. It adds up quick! Forced induction is way better bang for the buck!
Personally if the motor that's in there runs fine, I wouldn't tear it apart. Find out which gasket is bad and replace it. I'd pick up a spare 1uz for $500 and build that. That way the car stays running to have fun with while you start the build.
Since I am new to the forum and the SC world, information on converting the transmission is helpful. The only downside to this car is that it is an automatic.... that is pretty much why I chose to run the nitrous line right away (so my wife can drive it and spray when she wants the power). The other reason for choosing nitrous is because I have an internet based business in which I sell kits, but since I don't sponsor this forum, I won't mention the name so I don't violate any rules.
I found a minor coolant leak and believe that there is an oil leak somewhere along the lines, so pulling the motor will allow me to see the specific location of the oil leak that I can't visually pinpoint. I do want to upgrade the internals, but I don't really want to advertise that too much in case I choose not to based on my budget. I don't want to be one of those guys who says I'm going to build a 700hp car by adding 6 turbo's 3 superchargers and a 35 shot of nitrous.
Any good sites out there or reputable brands of any of the parts you had mentioned above?
09-09-09, 09:58 PM
#20
Pulling out the 1UZ isn't so hard. I used to pull it out with the help of another person in 2-3 hours. While pulling it out, make sure there's no wiring, hoses, mounts, or cables connected to the below. Remove the front bumper also.
Here are what you can leave intact with the engine while pulling it out.
The main ECU harness. Just disconnect it from the ECU and pull it out through the firewall to the engine bay before pulling the engine.
Leave the upper cats and headers intact with the engine.
Leave the whole transmission intact, but disconnect the front driveshaft section and all linkages.
To prevent the possible damage to the A/C condensor, remove it out. I didn't damage on 5 removals and 4 installations, but damaged on 1 installation.
The SC has a very long nose, so you'll need a long and tall engine hoist to pick it out.
This 95 SC4 has weaker rods than the 91-94 1UZ engine, so you shouldn't boost it over 10 lbs, if you plan to. However, it's a very strong engine overall. If you're willing to rebuild it, replace all gaskets, seals, and clean the heads. ARP head studs are a good choice. Perhaps adjusting for the valve clearance would be good.
No need for cams, because they don't give you a huge gain as a supercharger setup, and they're also expensive. Lextreme (www.lextreme.com) has a supercharger bracket for this SC. You can have a complete supercharger setup for less than $2000 if you know how to do it. It could even be $1500 if you're lucky to get a good used Vortech or Procharger.
A set of 4 cams, headers, ECU, and tuning will cost a few grands already. Cams and headers without ECU and tuning won't be that great. Even when they combine, they still lose to a low boost supercharger on cost and performance.
I'd go with a supercharger anyday over the NOS.
Good luck!
Here are what you can leave intact with the engine while pulling it out.
The main ECU harness. Just disconnect it from the ECU and pull it out through the firewall to the engine bay before pulling the engine.
Leave the upper cats and headers intact with the engine.
Leave the whole transmission intact, but disconnect the front driveshaft section and all linkages.
To prevent the possible damage to the A/C condensor, remove it out. I didn't damage on 5 removals and 4 installations, but damaged on 1 installation.
The SC has a very long nose, so you'll need a long and tall engine hoist to pick it out.
This 95 SC4 has weaker rods than the 91-94 1UZ engine, so you shouldn't boost it over 10 lbs, if you plan to. However, it's a very strong engine overall. If you're willing to rebuild it, replace all gaskets, seals, and clean the heads. ARP head studs are a good choice. Perhaps adjusting for the valve clearance would be good.
No need for cams, because they don't give you a huge gain as a supercharger setup, and they're also expensive. Lextreme (www.lextreme.com) has a supercharger bracket for this SC. You can have a complete supercharger setup for less than $2000 if you know how to do it. It could even be $1500 if you're lucky to get a good used Vortech or Procharger.
A set of 4 cams, headers, ECU, and tuning will cost a few grands already. Cams and headers without ECU and tuning won't be that great. Even when they combine, they still lose to a low boost supercharger on cost and performance.
I'd go with a supercharger anyday over the NOS.
Good luck!
Last edited by stevechumo; 09-09-09 at 10:04 PM.
09-10-09, 03:39 AM
#21
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Pulling out the 1UZ isn't so hard. I used to pull it out with the help of another person in 2-3 hours. While pulling it out, make sure there's no wiring, hoses, mounts, or cables connected to the below. Remove the front bumper also.
Here are what you can leave intact with the engine while pulling it out.
The main ECU harness. Just disconnect it from the ECU and pull it out through the firewall to the engine bay before pulling the engine.
Leave the upper cats and headers intact with the engine.
Leave the whole transmission intact, but disconnect the front driveshaft section and all linkages.
To prevent the possible damage to the A/C condensor, remove it out. I didn't damage on 5 removals and 4 installations, but damaged on 1 installation.
The SC has a very long nose, so you'll need a long and tall engine hoist to pick it out.
This 95 SC4 has weaker rods than the 91-94 1UZ engine, so you shouldn't boost it over 10 lbs, if you plan to. However, it's a very strong engine overall. If you're willing to rebuild it, replace all gaskets, seals, and clean the heads. ARP head studs are a good choice. Perhaps adjusting for the valve clearance would be good.
No need for cams, because they don't give you a huge gain as a supercharger setup, and they're also expensive. Lextreme (www.lextreme.com) has a supercharger bracket for this SC. You can have a complete supercharger setup for less than $2000 if you know how to do it. It could even be $1500 if you're lucky to get a good used Vortech or Procharger.
A set of 4 cams, headers, ECU, and tuning will cost a few grands already. Cams and headers without ECU and tuning won't be that great. Even when they combine, they still lose to a low boost supercharger on cost and performance.
I'd go with a supercharger anyday over the NOS.
Good luck!
Here are what you can leave intact with the engine while pulling it out.
The main ECU harness. Just disconnect it from the ECU and pull it out through the firewall to the engine bay before pulling the engine.
Leave the upper cats and headers intact with the engine.
Leave the whole transmission intact, but disconnect the front driveshaft section and all linkages.
To prevent the possible damage to the A/C condensor, remove it out. I didn't damage on 5 removals and 4 installations, but damaged on 1 installation.
The SC has a very long nose, so you'll need a long and tall engine hoist to pick it out.
This 95 SC4 has weaker rods than the 91-94 1UZ engine, so you shouldn't boost it over 10 lbs, if you plan to. However, it's a very strong engine overall. If you're willing to rebuild it, replace all gaskets, seals, and clean the heads. ARP head studs are a good choice. Perhaps adjusting for the valve clearance would be good.
No need for cams, because they don't give you a huge gain as a supercharger setup, and they're also expensive. Lextreme (www.lextreme.com) has a supercharger bracket for this SC. You can have a complete supercharger setup for less than $2000 if you know how to do it. It could even be $1500 if you're lucky to get a good used Vortech or Procharger.
A set of 4 cams, headers, ECU, and tuning will cost a few grands already. Cams and headers without ECU and tuning won't be that great. Even when they combine, they still lose to a low boost supercharger on cost and performance.
I'd go with a supercharger anyday over the NOS.
Good luck!
I'm crossing my fingers that work does not call me this weekend.
09-10-09, 10:58 AM
#22
I'd love the idea of a supercharger. I've always like the look of the roots style supercharges, but the intake manifold (bulletcars.com) for that seems to cost almost as much as the vortech setup would cost. I'd really love to snag that Twin Turbo ScottURnot is selling in the classifieds. I think that is a gorgeous setup. Thanks for the tip on pulling the harness through the firewall from the ECU, removing the front bumper, and ac condenser. That should save a lot of hassle (ideally).
I'm crossing my fingers that work does not call me this weekend.
I'm crossing my fingers that work does not call me this weekend.
Scott's TT setup is very nice. I want to have it, although I already have a single setup.
Another tip when pulling the engine is you should angle the chain at about 45 degree to the front. So the tranny's tail will tip down with the engine's front tip up. Last but not least, you'll need to remove the hood's bolts and sit it straight up. You can remove the hood completely if you want. The hood won't clear the engine.
Check this out when I'm helping my friend remove and install the 1UZ in 2 minutes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZBimyUO-LM
09-10-09, 04:04 PM
#23
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Fortunately, I took my hood off the other day and know about tipping it back. I'm getting anxious to get the motor out already. I've got people willing to help, but none of them know much about cars as it is. I wish I had someone local that I could pay in their weight in beer (after the engine pull lol).
That's a cool video. I totally took notes on every movement in the video lol.
I have a question about the glove box, and I'm assuming the ECU is behind there.?.?.?
I was trying to pull out the glove box last weekend and removed the two screws covered by black plastic in the glove box and two screws near the floor board of that plastic piece that goes against the glove box. I tried to pull it out, but it feels like there is still something connected just to the right of the top center area of the glove box opening. Is it just hung up on something or is there another screw? The box wiggles and can move slightly from side to side, but won't come out.
That's a cool video. I totally took notes on every movement in the video lol.
I have a question about the glove box, and I'm assuming the ECU is behind there.?.?.?
I was trying to pull out the glove box last weekend and removed the two screws covered by black plastic in the glove box and two screws near the floor board of that plastic piece that goes against the glove box. I tried to pull it out, but it feels like there is still something connected just to the right of the top center area of the glove box opening. Is it just hung up on something or is there another screw? The box wiggles and can move slightly from side to side, but won't come out.
09-10-09, 05:49 PM
#25
In response to the video:
Man you asian guys have a major height advantage when it comes to pulling motors on the SC!
I'm 6'5" and my back and hamstrings were killing me after swapping my motor.
You guys don't have to bend over as far.
So who's who in the video?
1. White shirt/black shorts
2. Guy in blue coveralls
3. Taller guy Tan hat/ Blue coveralls
You guys work fast!
But not as fast as these guys:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKF6dcKjLJo
The good part starts 2:00 mins in...
These 4 guys work in REAL time and can swap a motor in One Minute, 4 Seconds!!
Man you asian guys have a major height advantage when it comes to pulling motors on the SC!
I'm 6'5" and my back and hamstrings were killing me after swapping my motor.
You guys don't have to bend over as far.
So who's who in the video?
1. White shirt/black shorts
2. Guy in blue coveralls
3. Taller guy Tan hat/ Blue coveralls
You guys work fast!
But not as fast as these guys:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKF6dcKjLJo
The good part starts 2:00 mins in...
These 4 guys work in REAL time and can swap a motor in One Minute, 4 Seconds!!
09-10-09, 09:14 PM
#26
In response to the video:
Man you asian guys have a major height advantage when it comes to pulling motors on the SC!
I'm 6'5" and my back and hamstrings were killing me after swapping my motor.
You guys don't have to bend over as far.
So who's who in the video?
1. White shirt/black shorts
2. Guy in blue coveralls
3. Taller guy Tan hat/ Blue coveralls
You guys work fast! But not as fast as these guys:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKF6dcKjLJo
The good part starts 2:00 mins in...
These 4 guys work in REAL time and can swap a motor in One Minute, 4 Seconds!!
Man you asian guys have a major height advantage when it comes to pulling motors on the SC!
I'm 6'5" and my back and hamstrings were killing me after swapping my motor.
You guys don't have to bend over as far.
So who's who in the video?
1. White shirt/black shorts
2. Guy in blue coveralls
3. Taller guy Tan hat/ Blue coveralls
You guys work fast!
But not as fast as these guys:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKF6dcKjLJo
The good part starts 2:00 mins in...
These 4 guys work in REAL time and can swap a motor in One Minute, 4 Seconds!!
Even that VW swap is easier than the 1UZ, but it's still quick and amazing. I'm sure those VW guys work for VW and they know in-and-out of the engine. The only thing I didn't see them do is holding any wrenches or ratchets. Hopefully the engine won't drop when it's running on the freeway.
09-12-09, 12:44 PM
#29
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Removed the bumper, headlights, and etc.
I stopped at this point because work came up.... but I'm contemplating calling for reinforcements. There are some things that I am a little unsure of, so having someone's expert opinion working with me will help re-instill my confidence.
Up to this point I have removed:
Stock Intake
Battery
Engine Fan
Hood
Bumper
Headlights
Wheel wells
Drained Oil
Drained Coolant
Drained another fluid that I am unsure what it was.... most likely power steering
I still need to:
Drain Transmission Fluid
Disconnect Transmission from Drive Shaft
Disconnect harnesses connected to the engine from the ECU
Disconnect harness connected to the transmission from the Trans computer
Detach Motor mounts
Disconnect Fuel Line (just not sure from where)
I think there is a lot more that I am missing...any guidance is appreciated.
I stopped at this point because work came up.... but I'm contemplating calling for reinforcements. There are some things that I am a little unsure of, so having someone's expert opinion working with me will help re-instill my confidence.
Up to this point I have removed:
Stock Intake
Battery
Engine Fan
Hood
Bumper
Headlights
Wheel wells
Drained Oil
Drained Coolant
Drained another fluid that I am unsure what it was.... most likely power steering
I still need to:
Drain Transmission Fluid
Disconnect Transmission from Drive Shaft
Disconnect harnesses connected to the engine from the ECU
Disconnect harness connected to the transmission from the Trans computer
Detach Motor mounts
Disconnect Fuel Line (just not sure from where)
I think there is a lot more that I am missing...any guidance is appreciated.
09-12-09, 01:24 PM
#30
That's a very quick progress. 
The car's bottom should be clear with the cats, tranny & linkages, drive shaft, trannny mounts, engine mounts.
Then you may check at the engine's firewall and go forward. These should include coolant hoses, canister hose, brake master cylinder, fuel lines (there're only 2 of them for 1 in and 1 out on the left side - driver side - near the valve cover/PCV valve), TB gas cable, A/C hoses, fuse boxe harness, igniter wires. And remove the harness on the right side that goes to the alternator because that's hooked up to the chassis below the intake pipe.
Clear the engine's front from hoses that go to coolant, tranny, fan...etc.
There may be some other wires and vacuum here and there.
While removing it out, you should have a second person to look for any stuck wires, hoses, or parts that need to be removed.
I think those are the main parts that need to go, but I may forget something else.
After you take the engine out, take as many pictures as you can so they'll help you when you put everything back. The most confusion is the harness and sensors of how they should be relocated back. However, the good news is Toyota designed every plug that can only be plugged to its correct terminal. Good luck!
The car's bottom should be clear with the cats, tranny & linkages, drive shaft, trannny mounts, engine mounts.
Then you may check at the engine's firewall and go forward. These should include coolant hoses, canister hose, brake master cylinder, fuel lines (there're only 2 of them for 1 in and 1 out on the left side - driver side - near the valve cover/PCV valve), TB gas cable, A/C hoses, fuse boxe harness, igniter wires. And remove the harness on the right side that goes to the alternator because that's hooked up to the chassis below the intake pipe.
Clear the engine's front from hoses that go to coolant, tranny, fan...etc.
There may be some other wires and vacuum here and there.
While removing it out, you should have a second person to look for any stuck wires, hoses, or parts that need to be removed.
I think those are the main parts that need to go, but I may forget something else.
After you take the engine out, take as many pictures as you can so they'll help you when you put everything back. The most confusion is the harness and sensors of how they should be relocated back. However, the good news is Toyota designed every plug that can only be plugged to its correct terminal. Good luck!