Calling all aftermarket TC gurus
07-22-09, 12:13 PM
#1
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Calling all aftermarket TC gurus
I am losing hope here.
After installing my aftermarket Torque Converter (2800 stall) this is what I have noticed:
1-
shifting from P to D makes the car jerks and jumps forward as if the transmission wants to jump outside the car
Shifting from D to R or R to D has no such effect - It's only when I shift from P to D or P to R
2-
The car still launches at RPM's around 2100 from a dead stop (it was my understanding that the TC is like clutch and it will let go of the car at the stall RPM so mainly at ~ 2800 RPM)
3-
shifting from 1 - 2 , 2-3, 3-4 is more jerky and not as smooth (which is good because it means there is no slippin in the tranny
Does any of these three symptoms sound normal for an aftermarket TC (it is the rebuilt one not the Dragon TC)
any feedback would be appreciated, not by me, but by my mechanic because he won't have to deal with a $$$ hospital bill
After installing my aftermarket Torque Converter (2800 stall) this is what I have noticed:
1-
shifting from P to D makes the car jerks and jumps forward as if the transmission wants to jump outside the car
Shifting from D to R or R to D has no such effect - It's only when I shift from P to D or P to R
2-
The car still launches at RPM's around 2100 from a dead stop (it was my understanding that the TC is like clutch and it will let go of the car at the stall RPM so mainly at ~ 2800 RPM)
3-
shifting from 1 - 2 , 2-3, 3-4 is more jerky and not as smooth (which is good because it means there is no slippin in the tranny
Does any of these three symptoms sound normal for an aftermarket TC (it is the rebuilt one not the Dragon TC)
any feedback would be appreciated, not by me, but by my mechanic because he won't have to deal with a $$$ hospital bill
07-22-09, 12:34 PM
#2
I wouldn't consider myself a guru but I do know a few things. I also have a 2800rpm stall but it is a Dragon unit.
For the jerking, could be normal. But, I would check the adjustment on the line pressure cable (what year is your car?). Also would check the linkage that connects the shifter to the transmission. Both need to be disconnected / removed to drop the transmission (to install the convertor) so it's possible something got moved a little bit out of whack.
For the stall. A convertor is not quite like a clutch. It's not like dropping the clutch full out at 2800 rpm. It's more like letting out a clutch slowly at around 2800rpm. The stall speed is just the rpm in which the convertor is most efficient, slips the least amount. The car will still move well before the stated stall speed. The best way to check the stall speed it to power brake the car. Foot on brake and throttle pedal to the floor, the engine should be "stalled" at about your stall speed. You can only do this if your tires will hold the power though.
My car will start to creep forward a little bit at about 2200rpm and will roast the tires if I give it anymore.
I would guess that the tighter shifting in between gears is a result of the no4 solenoid mod.
KC
For the jerking, could be normal. But, I would check the adjustment on the line pressure cable (what year is your car?). Also would check the linkage that connects the shifter to the transmission. Both need to be disconnected / removed to drop the transmission (to install the convertor) so it's possible something got moved a little bit out of whack.
For the stall. A convertor is not quite like a clutch. It's not like dropping the clutch full out at 2800 rpm. It's more like letting out a clutch slowly at around 2800rpm. The stall speed is just the rpm in which the convertor is most efficient, slips the least amount. The car will still move well before the stated stall speed. The best way to check the stall speed it to power brake the car. Foot on brake and throttle pedal to the floor, the engine should be "stalled" at about your stall speed. You can only do this if your tires will hold the power though.
My car will start to creep forward a little bit at about 2200rpm and will roast the tires if I give it anymore.I would guess that the tighter shifting in between gears is a result of the no4 solenoid mod.
KC
07-22-09, 12:54 PM
#4
Driver
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Join Date: Jun 2009
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I wouldn't consider myself a guru but I do know a few things. I also have a 2800rpm stall but it is a Dragon unit.
For the jerking, could be normal. But, I would check the adjustment on the line pressure cable (what year is your car?). Also would check the linkage that connects the shifter to the transmission. Both need to be disconnected / removed to drop the transmission (to install the convertor) so it's possible something got moved a little bit out of whack.
For the stall. A convertor is not quite like a clutch. It's not like dropping the clutch full out at 2800 rpm. It's more like letting out a clutch slowly at around 2800rpm. The stall speed is just the rpm in which the convertor is most efficient, slips the least amount. The car will still move well before the stated stall speed. The best way to check the stall speed it to power brake the car. Foot on brake and throttle pedal to the floor, the engine should be "stalled" at about your stall speed. You can only do this if your tires will hold the power though. My car will start to creep forward a little bit at about 2200rpm and will roast the tires if I give it anymore.
I would guess that the tighter shifting in between gears is a result of the no4 solenoid mod.
KC
For the jerking, could be normal. But, I would check the adjustment on the line pressure cable (what year is your car?). Also would check the linkage that connects the shifter to the transmission. Both need to be disconnected / removed to drop the transmission (to install the convertor) so it's possible something got moved a little bit out of whack.
For the stall. A convertor is not quite like a clutch. It's not like dropping the clutch full out at 2800 rpm. It's more like letting out a clutch slowly at around 2800rpm. The stall speed is just the rpm in which the convertor is most efficient, slips the least amount. The car will still move well before the stated stall speed. The best way to check the stall speed it to power brake the car. Foot on brake and throttle pedal to the floor, the engine should be "stalled" at about your stall speed. You can only do this if your tires will hold the power though.
My car will start to creep forward a little bit at about 2200rpm and will roast the tires if I give it anymore.I would guess that the tighter shifting in between gears is a result of the no4 solenoid mod.
KC
I did the Brake + Gas test long ago and I just did it a minute ago - Wheels spin at 2200 RPM even if I have gas all the way down - That means that my stall speed is 2200 right?
My car is a 94 SC4 NA Auto obviously -Roasting the tires ? not for me, I am roasting my pocket trying to figure out where the problem is
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