shaodome

iTrader: (3)

I just got done wiring up the EMU in my SC300 running on JDM ECU. First I wired up the power, ground, map stuff. All works perfectly. Then wired up the ignition coils...works perfect, even launch control...

Went to wire up the injectors and NO DICE. NO FUEL. I have all the JP1-6 jumpers open and its setup to ADD/TRIM fuel and not just add, thus the injector wire on the factory harness is cut and the EMU is now inbetween, just like the ignition.

When cranking in the datalogging, everything seems normal. I see RPM (Crank/Cam) ignition, map, injection d/c in and out (matching). I know its something in the EMU as I connected a few injectors back to the stock harness and away from the EMU and the engine coughed as it tried to run on 2 injectors.

I'm totally stumped at this point! HELP

FWIW, these are 440cc injectors (highZ)

1siksc

iTrader: (8)

eww e-manage and 2jz is a no no.

shaodome

iTrader: (3)

its the ultimate, not a blue. There are plenty of local cars down here with success with it making good power. The biggest issue i've seen with it was people trying to get rid of the MAF. I never had a maf to begin with so not an issue.

Thanks for the help though

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Hmm, does the 2JZ require that seperate injector harness stuff for the EMU?\ or do you already have that?

Have you patched the EMU to the latest level? There's also a firmware patch for the board that you can do.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

My friend is running the EMBlue...check min 1:30 and tell me that car isn't fast. It kills 600cc bikes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlyK6...e=channel_page

shaodome

iTrader: (3)

I have the latest firmware and support tool. From what Greddy told me, I do NOT require a seperate injector harness if I have the universal harness... :-/

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I didn't think it was needed either. Probably something in the wiring?

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

jordan

very very friendly advice here , e damage is not bad and is as close to a standalone you can get but its still a piggyback, i dont like piggybacks

lrd car runs great with it but the tune and a/f tend to change from time to time for you are still trying to have 2 computers work in harmony

some have gotten it to work fine today next week then bam something changes car starts to dump fuel at idle etc etc etc.. been there done that


i have read real bad stories on tampa racing forums as well as supra mania about some motors going bye bye when going up in hp..



again just my humble stupid opinion , but i am a strong advocate for standalone , full control of timing ( not just intercepting the signal and altering it) full control of inj , duty cycle pulse rate firing angles etc etc

tune it and forget it , my car drives the same everyday nothing changes i also like the fact i dont use but 3 sensors , coolant temp , iat and map no check eng lights to deal with no car all of a sudden going into limp mode


teelex took my advice and when he dropped in the gte went aem for the start , had it tuned by my tuner alpha and is loving it

no matter what motor i go with i will NEVER EVER deal with piggy back stuff again period nuff said

shaodome

iTrader: (3)

I was waiting for you to come in with the "I told you so"

As you know, I'm very comfortable with tuning and have worked on a lot of different platforms. Being that people have had issues with the EMU, I'm determined to make it work properly.

I'm new to the 2JZ world though... Din was telling me at power levels up to ~500whp, the stock ECU's timing control is just fine. That seems incredible to me when running big boost (18+psi) and pump gas. I am wondering if the ECU is just riding on the knock sensors edge. That I do NOT like as that means you have to KNOCK FIRST in order to get the timing in check. I do have timing control with the EMU and it works so far. I only checked it by ear as I was too lazy to grab the timing light out of the drawer 15ft away..lol...Increase the timing, and up the idle goes...so its doing somethin.

OFF TOPIC..

Ed...i've been dealing with running warm now for a bit. I installed the factory fan shroud and factory fan as that is the most recommended air mover. Also flushed the entire system since it was a bit rusty in there. Still ran warm...took the Tstat out (original old OEM) same thing, just took a bit to get there. I've seen as high as about 220-230f. That is TOO high.

I was looking at my Supra Griffen Rad and noticed some gunk on the side/middle of the core. Seems like a "stop leak" product was used in the past. Being that your 3row mishimoto seems to cool MORE than enough...i think i'll try swapping it out. Where did u get yours? SC specific or Supra unit?

GSXRMack

iTrader: (3)

When I got mine I Purchased the injector harness(Basically a resistor box) and the ignition chip. Not installed yet so tagging along getting hints and info. Good luck man.

shaodome

iTrader: (3)

I'm running high impedance injectors, so I don't need dropping resistors yet. I'm going to call Greddy tomorrow....i'm hoping to test it with another local member that is also running EMU before I commit this unit to being internally defective. I know its not the wiring :-/

GSXRMack

iTrader: (3)

Just remembered, When I was looking to buy mine, there was an issue with the early ones getting a chip knocked off the board. Quick careful check inside to see if anything is banged up. the latest rev. has the chip moved to a better spot on the board.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

i hear ya jordan.. and yes you are correct ,your ecu relies solely on knock sensors picking pinging to pull some timing but the question is without a defined custom setup knock map (like a aem can do) the oem calibrations of adjusting timing is not that large and does itin a weird way that it pulls timing at the most inconvient times when it believes it may register knock


my car used to shut off some times while it was trying to build boost in 3rd gear and that was what pushed me over the edge

what dinh is saying is not correct hp levels are not part of the equation with knock control.. you can get a bad batch of gas at 360hp and knock the crap out of the block or at 600hp... i just dont trust stock ecu to do what it was never programmed to accomodate , more than 350 rwhp then again thats just me i guess



as far as your running hot problem , the mishimoto rad too me works 150%.. my tuner even said to me while we were finishing up street tune , in 95 deg with ac on running 20psi at 160mph my car stayed in the 185 deg range the entire time , he said he has neer seen or tuned a 2jz that stayed that cool under such conditions..

i got mine off ebay , you can try it , i just hope you dont have a leaky or partially blown head gasket... i would do the chemical test to make sure their are no gas/oil in vapors in the coolant area

shaodome

iTrader: (3)

It's on the list of things to do for sure...it normally won't go above like 205-220 until I get off the highway and just sit with the a/c on for 5min (testing). I've driven it 80 miles and not had a problem. I would by highly annoyed if it was a BHG. The issue is the FMIC and its massiveness...

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

What do you 1JZ EMU guys have jumper 15 set to?

RPM signal input- Is it normal/tach signal input jumpers 1-2 OR coil(-) 2-3

Basically- Does the 1JZ get RPM signal from the tach signal or the coils?