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1jzgte R154 swap 1997 SC300

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Old 06-05-09, 08:26 PM   #1
BigGreen
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Default 1jzgte R154 swap 1997 SC300

Whats up,

I have been poking around here lately and been asking alot of questions and talking bout my swap so I didnt want you guys to feel like you were just talking for no reason. Here are some pics of my progress. I gotta shout out my shop of choice REDLINE and much props to mike, one of the best engines guys I know. THanks Joe for letting me occupy a lift for a while! Mike and J-Weezy much respect to yall for putting up with me everyday!

REDLINE = Best all around shop( performance mods - oil changes) its the place to go
Located @ 19 Van Buren st, Floral Park, NY (right off Jericho turnpike about 1/2 mile from cross island)

This is going into my green 1997 sc300 automatic (2nd owner since 2001)

SWAP INFO:
1jzgte 2.5L twin turbo soarer engine w/ 5mt ecu
R154 soarer tranny
FMIC
Dual Turbo timer
Manual Boost controller
AEM wideband
Greddy BOV (using stock for setup purposes)
Walbro 255hp
Stage 2 clutch kit
Lightweight flywheel
1pc custom driveshaft
Piggyback ECU
Borla mufflers
Tein coilovers
Daizan Bushings (control arm, sway bar, steering rack)
TM engineering sway bar (F/R)
Wire harness (Dr. Tweak = Pheonixtuning.com)
Greddy SCC
Intake
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Last edited by BigGreen; 06-19-09 at 01:59 PM..
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Old 06-05-09, 08:41 PM   #2
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Let me know what you guys think so far?

Last edited by BigGreen; 06-05-09 at 09:55 PM..
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Old 06-05-09, 09:20 PM   #3
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here are some more pics
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Old 06-05-09, 09:22 PM   #4
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here are a few more
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Old 06-05-09, 09:25 PM   #5
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here are a couple more. Before anyone says anything these pics are from my htc touch camera phone. Car is really dusty too!
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Old 06-05-09, 09:33 PM   #6
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The last couple of shots
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Old 06-05-09, 11:50 PM   #7
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You installed the clutch on the flywheel and then bolted the trans on didn't you. Hope that bling on the crank pulley is worth the spun bearing you're asking for.
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Old 06-06-09, 12:53 AM   #8
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looks alright, except im a little concerned about that crank pulley as 2jzlex said. That crank is not gonna like a solid pulley on the front and will shake and rattle your bottom end apart. I would source out a stock replacement IMO unless this is for a full race application.

Also, let me know how the 1JZ hooks up with an OBDII harness. Im a little interested in finding out
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Old 06-06-09, 05:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2jzlex View Post
You installed the clutch on the flywheel and then bolted the trans on didn't you. Hope that bling on the crank pulley is worth the spun bearing you're asking for.
Had to bolt the trans up and install the clutch through the openings I believe.

I am not sure what you mean, whats the problem that happens with the crank pulley? I still believe that I have my oem one. Are there problems with any of the other pulleys or just the crank pulley?

Last edited by BigGreen; 06-06-09 at 05:45 AM..
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Old 06-06-09, 05:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StiCk3 View Post
looks alright, except im a little concerned about that crank pulley as 2jzlex said. That crank is not gonna like a solid pulley on the front and will shake and rattle your bottom end apart. I would source out a stock replacement IMO unless this is for a full race application.

Also, let me know how the 1JZ hooks up with an OBDII harness. Im a little interested in finding out
Why is the crank not going to like that pulley, and should I replace all of the pulleys back to oem?

I will let you know how the 1jz and ob2 hooks up once i get it started.
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Old 06-06-09, 05:53 AM   #11
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The stock pulley is dampered, and the solid one you're using is not. I would switch back to the stock crank pulley, but you can keep the othere ones you;re using.

Also, the serpentine belt should go "alternator-tensioner-crank" not "alternator-crank-tensioner" You may need a longer belt. I don't know if it's ok to oungt it the way you did, but I just have mine routed a little differently.......
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Old 06-06-09, 06:52 AM   #12
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car is coming along real nicely , good build however i as well would HIGHLY recc removing that garbage crank pully or you will run the risk of giving yorself crankwalk amonst other problems as you go up in HP.. go back to oem or get fluid damper or ati crank pully for the oem crank is not finely balanced so your oem damper helps to absorb the variations once it reaches harmonics if not then you can run the risk of bearing failure ontop of crankwalk etc etc etc
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Old 06-06-09, 07:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneJay View Post
The stock pulley is dampered, and the solid one you're using is not. I would switch back to the stock crank pulley, but you can keep the othere ones you;re using.

Also, the serpentine belt should go "alternator-tensioner-crank" not "alternator-crank-tensioner" You may need a longer belt. I don't know if it's ok to oungt it the way you did, but I just have mine routed a little differently.......
Thanks for the comments and suggestions guys, much appreciated. This is my first stab at any kind of engine swap so I know I am going to get a few things wrong. I hope to get this started by Monday hopefully!

Ok, so I will reinstall my oem crank pulley to avoid any of the above statements.

Do you have a picture of how the serpentine belt should go anyone?

Last edited by BigGreen; 06-06-09 at 07:04 AM..
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Old 06-06-09, 09:23 AM   #14
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You can kind of see how it goes in this pic.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-06-09, 10:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneJay View Post
Also, the serpentine belt should go "alternator-tensioner-crank" not "alternator-crank-tensioner"

Wow, good catch!

Here's how the belt is ran.
http://www.*******.com/parts/diag_AuIUWp.png

Definitely shake the solid pulley though, and install the OEM harmonic dampner.
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Old 06-06-09, 10:04 AM
 
 
 
 
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