My 1jzgte swap thread pic heavy!
01-29-09, 08:33 PM
#1
My 1jzgte swap thread pic heavy!
UPDATE- the company i use for hosting my pics is down, that means no pics until they move providers and come back online...
UPDATE - 2/25/2012 - I've switched to Yahoo Flickr and have started uploading photos so that I can re-populate the pictures
Hi everyone!
I decided to start a thread documenting my 1jz swap into my 95' SC300 5MT chassis.
This whole deal started 2 weeks ago when my 2JZGE crank pulley started wobbling. I got to looking at the engine, and decided it would be cool to go ahead and make some changes. I was initially thinking of installing a turbo on the 2JZ-GE.
Well, as I started comparing cost, I couldn't help but realize that going NA-T correctly(using solid named brand parts-AEM EMS etc) is an expensive endeavor, and I decided to drop in a Soarer 1JZ.
There were some reasons-
1. its my daily driver
2. stock GTE ecu drivability
3. the 1jz auto engine sets are relatively inexpensive
4. lower miles than my 2jzge
5. i figured i could sell my 2jzge stuff and pretty much pay for a the newer 1jz engine set(which I did)
So, I called up Jhot and started asking questions. They were very helpful and answered all of my questions.
I ended up driving to Jhot a few days later, and bought an undocumented mileage 1jz complete swap, mainly because it was super clean and it was by far the cleanest 1JZ engine set they had in the shop.
I have to say this motor is just super clean! The more I look and inspect the parts the more I think it could only have a legit 20-50k miles
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865517/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865517/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
So let's begin.
So at first I was going to change just the crank pulley, and be done with it. While I was waiting on the Toyota crank removal tools, I had a changed my mind, and I decided to go turbo!
Take a look at this 2JZ-GE crank pulley first off. I can't believe it is so rusty. I had to tap out the 2 holes because of the rust so that I could use the puller tool on it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928467403/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928467403/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
So, the motor has to come out. 1/17/2009
You can see that I tied the power steering out of the way, for now.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468105/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468105/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
The exhaust flange down at the downpipe was welded up from 156k miles of heat. The bolts were literally fused into the flange. I ended up using a high speed cutter and cut in between the flange until it seperated.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468433/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468433/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
UPDATE - 2/25/2012 - I've switched to Yahoo Flickr and have started uploading photos so that I can re-populate the pictures
Hi everyone!
I decided to start a thread documenting my 1jz swap into my 95' SC300 5MT chassis.
This whole deal started 2 weeks ago when my 2JZGE crank pulley started wobbling. I got to looking at the engine, and decided it would be cool to go ahead and make some changes. I was initially thinking of installing a turbo on the 2JZ-GE.
Well, as I started comparing cost, I couldn't help but realize that going NA-T correctly(using solid named brand parts-AEM EMS etc) is an expensive endeavor, and I decided to drop in a Soarer 1JZ.
There were some reasons-
1. its my daily driver
2. stock GTE ecu drivability
3. the 1jz auto engine sets are relatively inexpensive
4. lower miles than my 2jzge
5. i figured i could sell my 2jzge stuff and pretty much pay for a the newer 1jz engine set(which I did)
So, I called up Jhot and started asking questions. They were very helpful and answered all of my questions.
I ended up driving to Jhot a few days later, and bought an undocumented mileage 1jz complete swap, mainly because it was super clean and it was by far the cleanest 1JZ engine set they had in the shop.
I have to say this motor is just super clean! The more I look and inspect the parts the more I think it could only have a legit 20-50k miles
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865517/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865517/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
So let's begin.
So at first I was going to change just the crank pulley, and be done with it. While I was waiting on the Toyota crank removal tools, I had a changed my mind, and I decided to go turbo!
Take a look at this 2JZ-GE crank pulley first off. I can't believe it is so rusty. I had to tap out the 2 holes because of the rust so that I could use the puller tool on it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928467403/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928467403/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
So, the motor has to come out. 1/17/2009
You can see that I tied the power steering out of the way, for now.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468105/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468105/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
The exhaust flange down at the downpipe was welded up from 156k miles of heat. The bolts were literally fused into the flange. I ended up using a high speed cutter and cut in between the flange until it seperated.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468433/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468433/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 09:10 AM.
01-29-09, 08:34 PM
#2
The ECM isn't hard to get to. Takes about 10-15min tops
First you remove this plastic panel, theres 2 obvious fasteners.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468621/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468621/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Next you got the two glove box screws hidden behind the tabs. I removed the tabs with a picker.
You got another hidden screw top center in the glovebox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348100/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348100/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Rather than unclipping the connector, just take a small flathead to this front/back side and remove it as one unit. There's 2 other small connectors on the left back side of the g/b
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348540/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348540/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
I used a flathead to easily remove the carpet trim as per the FSM.
This is what it looks like with the carpet rolled back a bit.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348698/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348698/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Theres one body plug connector that is a pain in the neck. I used my trusty flat head to exert force to the connector while pulling it out....and I cut my finger getting it out, but its cool!
Here's a 'hint' not in the FSM...tie the harness up before you pull it through the firewall...because it's pretty tight back there.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348784/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348784/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
I could not get the exhaust off. The bolts were practically welded in place. You can see I sprayed it all down with PB Blaster real good.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782347126/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782347126/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Removing the passenger side motor mount bracket with a 14mm, if I recall, and a breaker bar made it easier to remove the motor. As you can see, a few oil leaks.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468525/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468525/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
First you remove this plastic panel, theres 2 obvious fasteners.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468621/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468621/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Next you got the two glove box screws hidden behind the tabs. I removed the tabs with a picker.
You got another hidden screw top center in the glovebox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348100/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348100/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Rather than unclipping the connector, just take a small flathead to this front/back side and remove it as one unit. There's 2 other small connectors on the left back side of the g/b
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348540/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348540/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
I used a flathead to easily remove the carpet trim as per the FSM.
This is what it looks like with the carpet rolled back a bit.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348698/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348698/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Theres one body plug connector that is a pain in the neck. I used my trusty flat head to exert force to the connector while pulling it out....and I cut my finger getting it out, but its cool!
Here's a 'hint' not in the FSM...tie the harness up before you pull it through the firewall...because it's pretty tight back there.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348784/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782348784/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
I could not get the exhaust off. The bolts were practically welded in place. You can see I sprayed it all down with PB Blaster real good.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782347126/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782347126/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Removing the passenger side motor mount bracket with a 14mm, if I recall, and a breaker bar made it easier to remove the motor. As you can see, a few oil leaks.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468525/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928468525/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 11:04 AM.
01-29-09, 08:34 PM
#3
1/17/2009
The cavalry arrived!
My friend Lorenzo showed up to help for a bit. Always nice to have an extra hand pulling/installing a motor.
EDIT: 4/16/2009- THE REAL TRICK IS TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE FRONT MASK< AND RADIATOR CORE SUPPORT. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SLIDE THE MOTOR RIGHT OUT< AND RIGHT ON BACK IN WITH EASE.
The trick with this motor is to jack it up a bit, and pull it towards the front of the car, rinse/repeat....
Also, we had to jack up the tranny so that the driveshaft slid out easier and wasn't bound up.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782347678/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782347678/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Wow, very grimey. I hate that.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473361/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473361/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Another thing I tend to do is put nuts and bolts in baggies so that when I install the motor later, 1 month or 3 years down to the road. I ain't wasting time looking for nuts/bolts. That sucks...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353460/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353460/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
The cavalry arrived!
My friend Lorenzo showed up to help for a bit. Always nice to have an extra hand pulling/installing a motor.
EDIT: 4/16/2009- THE REAL TRICK IS TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE FRONT MASK< AND RADIATOR CORE SUPPORT. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SLIDE THE MOTOR RIGHT OUT< AND RIGHT ON BACK IN WITH EASE.
The trick with this motor is to jack it up a bit, and pull it towards the front of the car, rinse/repeat....
Also, we had to jack up the tranny so that the driveshaft slid out easier and wasn't bound up.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782347678/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782347678/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Wow, very grimey. I hate that.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473361/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473361/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Another thing I tend to do is put nuts and bolts in baggies so that when I install the motor later, 1 month or 3 years down to the road. I ain't wasting time looking for nuts/bolts. That sucks...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353460/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353460/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 11:08 AM.
01-29-09, 08:35 PM
#4
So, 1/20/2009 I picked up my 1jz from Dzung at Jhot.
I got it home and immediately went to work on removing the harness. I decided to send the harness to Phoenixtuning.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748648/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748648/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748384/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748384/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748236/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748236/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865601/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865601/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Super clean
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865699/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865699/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Jhot is thorough, they include everything. Ecu,Ignitor & map sensor, 3 vital parts that you will need!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865439/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865439/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
The harness was pretty hard to remove and I'm not looking forward to reinstalling it, but oh well. It'll be worth the effort.
I got it home and immediately went to work on removing the harness. I decided to send the harness to Phoenixtuning.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748648/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748648/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748384/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748384/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748236/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6778748236/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865601/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865601/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Super clean
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865699/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865699/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Jhot is thorough, they include everything. Ecu,Ignitor & map sensor, 3 vital parts that you will need!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865439/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6924865439/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
The harness was pretty hard to remove and I'm not looking forward to reinstalling it, but oh well. It'll be worth the effort.
Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 11:15 AM.
01-29-09, 08:48 PM
#5
I actually had to send Dr. Tweak my GE harness as well to use as reference, and it was much easier to remove than the GTE harness was.
So, crank removal. I decided to get the Toyota SST tools. They are about $120 for both pieces shipped. They allow you to hold the crank for removing/torquing the crank nut AND flywheel bolts. I've made my own flywheel holding tool before out of angle iron, and it sucks!
Here's what Toyota came up with.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782351926/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782351926/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
I was able to turn the crank so that the tool was resting against the floor and wouldn't budge. I used a snap on breaker bar with a cheater bar, and it came right off. The SST tool simply kicks ***.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928467517/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928467517/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Here's the standard rental cheapo puller.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352040/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352040/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Here's how my crank pulley was failing, and why it was wobbling. You can see how it has seperated.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352150/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352150/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
I initially thought that my 2JZGE crank keyway might've been damaged from the crank pulley wobbling. Which would ruin the front end of the crank requiring a new crank to do it right, but the keyway is perfect! No damage at all, not even a mark on the crank from the pulley wobbling.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352296/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352296/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
All this motor need's is the std overhaul gasket kit, and it's good to go!
So, crank removal. I decided to get the Toyota SST tools. They are about $120 for both pieces shipped. They allow you to hold the crank for removing/torquing the crank nut AND flywheel bolts. I've made my own flywheel holding tool before out of angle iron, and it sucks!
Here's what Toyota came up with.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782351926/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782351926/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
I was able to turn the crank so that the tool was resting against the floor and wouldn't budge. I used a snap on breaker bar with a cheater bar, and it came right off. The SST tool simply kicks ***.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928467517/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928467517/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Here's the standard rental cheapo puller.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352040/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352040/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Here's how my crank pulley was failing, and why it was wobbling. You can see how it has seperated.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352150/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352150/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
I initially thought that my 2JZGE crank keyway might've been damaged from the crank pulley wobbling. Which would ruin the front end of the crank requiring a new crank to do it right, but the keyway is perfect! No damage at all, not even a mark on the crank from the pulley wobbling.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352296/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782352296/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
All this motor need's is the std overhaul gasket kit, and it's good to go!
Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 11:19 AM.
01-29-09, 09:14 PM
#6
The stock GE manifold are a PITA...
I couldn't remove them from under the car, I tried. I think what happened is that my cat was somewhat clogged and caused immense heat which almost fused these bolts up.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928474287/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928474287/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
man, that is a beautiful helmet eh?
big brakes...but red?! yuck lol
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353834/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353834/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
So, this past Sunday, 1/25/09 I started removing the front bumper cover for the intercooler install.
You have to remove the front fender well liner to get to the two hidden headlight bolts. You also have 2 other bolts up top to undo from the bracket.
Here it is!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928474891/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928474891/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Remember, the grimey engine bay?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473361/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473361/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
A little funky engine brite, and then some 99 cent oven cleaner...and I got this!
Remember to use saran wrap or cling wrap on all of the connectors in the engine bay when you wash it out, just in case. Plug the ECU firewall hole, and the other hole near the brake booster.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473459/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473459/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473683/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473683/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473807/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473807/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353282/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353282/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
I couldn't remove them from under the car, I tried. I think what happened is that my cat was somewhat clogged and caused immense heat which almost fused these bolts up.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928474287/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928474287/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
man, that is a beautiful helmet eh?
big brakes...but red?! yuck lol
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353834/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353834/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
So, this past Sunday, 1/25/09 I started removing the front bumper cover for the intercooler install.
You have to remove the front fender well liner to get to the two hidden headlight bolts. You also have 2 other bolts up top to undo from the bracket.
Here it is!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928474891/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928474891/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Remember, the grimey engine bay?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473361/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473361/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
A little funky engine brite, and then some 99 cent oven cleaner...and I got this!
Remember to use saran wrap or cling wrap on all of the connectors in the engine bay when you wash it out, just in case. Plug the ECU firewall hole, and the other hole near the brake booster.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473459/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473459/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473683/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473683/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473807/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928473807/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353282/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782353282/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 11:25 AM.
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01-29-09, 09:29 PM
#9
Fast forward to today, and I got some parts!
New crank pulley
DM engine mounts
Greddy speed cut eliminator
1jz belt w/AC
Timing tensioner
ss clutch line
ss power steering line
DM pulley kit sans crank pulley(dont want a solid crank pulley!)
Walbro fuel pump kit
Timing Belt(but I ordered the wrong one! I need 1jz specific so it's already in the mail
Thanks DriftMotion
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377566/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377566/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
DM intercooler
DM 2.5" intercooler piping kit w/ couplers,aircraft clamps, and lots of brackets!! Good stuff guys!!
ARP crank bolts
DM intake kit/filter
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377452/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377452/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Honestly, I can't remember what radiator this is..but I got it off Ebay.
Not a bad looking piece, and its super wide
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928498909/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928498909/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Oem water pump
Toyota coolant
3 oil filters
2jz throttle cable
pilot bearing
2jz thermostat
2jz PCV valve(gotta give those 1jz twins a chance!)
other random gaskets...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377876/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377876/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Toyota over haul from Jeff at Champion Toyota in Houston
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378744/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378744/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Hmm....is it the missing link?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377686/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377686/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Ah! Soarer R154 w/remote shifter!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378492/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378492/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Even got the Soarer front driveshaft yoke so I can have my driveshaft customized locally.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378118/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378118/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
That's about where I'm at. I'm waiting on the clutch slave, and the timing belt. Then when the harness gets here I'll install it, and get the motor ready to drop in.
Look's like I'm going to need a clutch set too...
New crank pulley
DM engine mounts
Greddy speed cut eliminator
1jz belt w/AC
Timing tensioner
ss clutch line
ss power steering line
DM pulley kit sans crank pulley(dont want a solid crank pulley!)
Walbro fuel pump kit
Timing Belt(but I ordered the wrong one! I need 1jz specific so it's already in the mail
Thanks DriftMotionhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377566/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377566/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
DM intercooler
DM 2.5" intercooler piping kit w/ couplers,aircraft clamps, and lots of brackets!! Good stuff guys!!
ARP crank bolts
DM intake kit/filter
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377452/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377452/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Honestly, I can't remember what radiator this is..but I got it off Ebay.
Not a bad looking piece, and its super wide
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928498909/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6928498909/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Oem water pump
Toyota coolant
3 oil filters
2jz throttle cable
pilot bearing
2jz thermostat
2jz PCV valve(gotta give those 1jz twins a chance!)
other random gaskets...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377876/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377876/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Toyota over haul from Jeff at Champion Toyota in Houston
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378744/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378744/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Hmm....is it the missing link?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377686/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782377686/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Ah! Soarer R154 w/remote shifter!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378492/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378492/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Even got the Soarer front driveshaft yoke so I can have my driveshaft customized locally.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378118/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782378118/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
That's about where I'm at. I'm waiting on the clutch slave, and the timing belt. Then when the harness gets here I'll install it, and get the motor ready to drop in.
Look's like I'm going to need a clutch set too...
Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 11:36 AM.
01-29-09, 10:37 PM
#14
I went ahead and removed the auto tranny from the 1jz. Not fun..I had to use an offset 14mm wrench through the starter hole to get the torque converter bolts loose.
EDIT:this is the wrong way to do this, use the small clutch inspection hole at the bottom of the bellhousing to get at the bolts! I did all the work with the motor on the ground, so I really didn't even think about doing that! DoH!
After that a few taps with a rubber mallet and that heavy thing pops right off.
EDIT:this is the wrong way to do this, use the small clutch inspection hole at the bottom of the bellhousing to get at the bolts! I did all the work with the motor on the ground, so I really didn't even think about doing that! DoH!
After that a few taps with a rubber mallet and that heavy thing pops right off.
Last edited by RyanV; 02-14-09 at 09:33 AM.
