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My 1jzgte swap thread pic heavy!

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Old 01-29-09, 09:33 PM   #1
RyanV
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Default My 1jzgte swap thread pic heavy!

UPDATE- the company i use for hosting my pics is down, that means no pics until they move providers and come back online...
UPDATE - 2/25/2012 - I've switched to Yahoo Flickr and have started uploading photos so that I can re-populate the pictures

Hi everyone!

I decided to start a thread documenting my 1jz swap into my 95' SC300 5MT chassis.

This whole deal started 2 weeks ago when my 2JZGE crank pulley started wobbling. I got to looking at the engine, and decided it would be cool to go ahead and make some changes. I was initially thinking of installing a turbo on the 2JZ-GE.

Well, as I started comparing cost, I couldn't help but realize that going NA-T correctly(using solid named brand parts-AEM EMS etc) is an expensive endeavor, and I decided to drop in a Soarer 1JZ.

There were some reasons-
1. its my daily driver
2. stock GTE ecu drivability
3. the 1jz auto engine sets are relatively inexpensive
4. lower miles than my 2jzge
5. i figured i could sell my 2jzge stuff and pretty much pay for a the newer 1jz engine set(which I did)

So, I called up Jhot and started asking questions. They were very helpful and answered all of my questions.

I ended up driving to Jhot a few days later, and bought an undocumented mileage 1jz complete swap, mainly because it was super clean and it was by far the cleanest 1JZ engine set they had in the shop.

I have to say this motor is just super clean! The more I look and inspect the parts the more I think it could only have a legit 20-50k miles


IMGP1958 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr



So let's begin.

So at first I was going to change just the crank pulley, and be done with it. While I was waiting on the Toyota crank removal tools, I had a changed my mind, and I decided to go turbo!

Take a look at this 2JZ-GE crank pulley first off. I can't believe it is so rusty. I had to tap out the 2 holes because of the rust so that I could use the puller tool on it.


IMGP1897 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr


So, the motor has to come out. 1/17/2009

You can see that I tied the power steering out of the way, for now.


IMGP1927 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

The exhaust flange down at the downpipe was welded up from 156k miles of heat. The bolts were literally fused into the flange. I ended up using a high speed cutter and cut in between the flange until it seperated.


IMGP1933 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
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1995 Baltic Supra....sold
1999 Gs400...

Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 10:10 AM..
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Old 01-29-09, 09:34 PM   #2
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The ECM isn't hard to get to. Takes about 10-15min tops

First you remove this plastic panel, theres 2 obvious fasteners.

IMGP1939 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Next you got the two glove box screws hidden behind the tabs. I removed the tabs with a picker.


You got another hidden screw top center in the glovebox.

IMGP1940 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Rather than unclipping the connector, just take a small flathead to this front/back side and remove it as one unit. There's 2 other small connectors on the left back side of the g/b

IMGP1944 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

I used a flathead to easily remove the carpet trim as per the FSM.

This is what it looks like with the carpet rolled back a bit.

IMGP1946 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Theres one body plug connector that is a pain in the neck. I used my trusty flat head to exert force to the connector while pulling it out....and I cut my finger getting it out, but its cool!

Here's a 'hint' not in the FSM...tie the harness up before you pull it through the firewall...because it's pretty tight back there.

IMGP1949 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

I could not get the exhaust off. The bolts were practically welded in place. You can see I sprayed it all down with PB Blaster real good.

IMGP1923 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Removing the passenger side motor mount bracket with a 14mm, if I recall, and a breaker bar made it easier to remove the motor. As you can see, a few oil leaks.

IMGP1935 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
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1999 Gs400...

Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 12:04 PM..
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Old 01-29-09, 09:34 PM   #3
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1/17/2009

The cavalry arrived!

My friend Lorenzo showed up to help for a bit. Always nice to have an extra hand pulling/installing a motor.

EDIT: 4/16/2009- THE REAL TRICK IS TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE FRONT MASK< AND RADIATOR CORE SUPPORT. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SLIDE THE MOTOR RIGHT OUT< AND RIGHT ON BACK IN WITH EASE.

The trick with this motor is to jack it up a bit, and pull it towards the front of the car, rinse/repeat....
Also, we had to jack up the tranny so that the driveshaft slid out easier and wasn't bound up.


IMGP1930 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Wow, very grimey. I hate that.

IMGP2049 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Another thing I tend to do is put nuts and bolts in baggies so that when I install the motor later, 1 month or 3 years down to the road. I ain't wasting time looking for nuts/bolts. That sucks...

IMGP2035 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
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Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 12:08 PM..
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Old 01-29-09, 09:35 PM   #4
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So, 1/20/2009 I picked up my 1jz from Dzung at Jhot.

I got it home and immediately went to work on removing the harness. I decided to send the harness to Phoenixtuning.


IMGP1999 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr


IMGP1994 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr


IMGP1976 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr


IMGP1962 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Super clean

IMGP1964 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr


Jhot is thorough, they include everything. Ecu,Ignitor & map sensor, 3 vital parts that you will need!

IMGP1957 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

The harness was pretty hard to remove and I'm not looking forward to reinstalling it, but oh well. It'll be worth the effort.
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1995 Baltic Supra....sold
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Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 12:15 PM..
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Old 01-29-09, 09:48 PM   #5
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I actually had to send Dr. Tweak my GE harness as well to use as reference, and it was much easier to remove than the GTE harness was.

So, crank removal. I decided to get the Toyota SST tools. They are about $120 for both pieces shipped. They allow you to hold the crank for removing/torquing the crank nut AND flywheel bolts. I've made my own flywheel holding tool before out of angle iron, and it sucks!

Here's what Toyota came up with.

IMGP1959 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

I was able to turn the crank so that the tool was resting against the floor and wouldn't budge. I used a snap on breaker bar with a cheater bar, and it came right off. The SST tool simply kicks ***.

IMGP1917 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Here's the standard rental cheapo puller.

IMGP2008 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Here's how my crank pulley was failing, and why it was wobbling. You can see how it has seperated.

IMGP2009 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

I initially thought that my 2JZGE crank keyway might've been damaged from the crank pulley wobbling. Which would ruin the front end of the crank requiring a new crank to do it right, but the keyway is perfect! No damage at all, not even a mark on the crank from the pulley wobbling.


IMGP2013 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

All this motor need's is the std overhaul gasket kit, and it's good to go!
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1995 Baltic Supra....sold
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Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 12:19 PM..
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Old 01-29-09, 10:14 PM   #6
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The stock GE manifold are a PITA...

I couldn't remove them from under the car, I tried. I think what happened is that my cat was somewhat clogged and caused immense heat which almost fused these bolts up.


IMGP2037 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

man, that is a beautiful helmet eh?

big brakes...but red?! yuck lol


IMGP2040 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

So, this past Sunday, 1/25/09 I started removing the front bumper cover for the intercooler install.

You have to remove the front fender well liner to get to the two hidden headlight bolts. You also have 2 other bolts up top to undo from the bracket.


Here it is!

IMGP2047 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Remember, the grimey engine bay?

IMGP2049 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

A little funky engine brite, and then some 99 cent oven cleaner...and I got this!
Remember to use saran wrap or cling wrap on all of the connectors in the engine bay when you wash it out, just in case. Plug the ECU firewall hole, and the other hole near the brake booster.


IMGP2058 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr


IMGP2060 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr


IMGP2061 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr


IMGP2062 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
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Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 12:25 PM..
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Old 01-29-09, 10:21 PM   #7
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Subscribed!
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Old 01-29-09, 10:29 PM   #8
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this is pretty cool!
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Old 01-29-09, 10:29 PM   #9
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Fast forward to today, and I got some parts!

New crank pulley
DM engine mounts
Greddy speed cut eliminator
1jz belt w/AC
Timing tensioner
ss clutch line
ss power steering line
DM pulley kit sans crank pulley(dont want a solid crank pulley!)
Walbro fuel pump kit
Timing Belt(but I ordered the wrong one! I need 1jz specific so it's already in the mail Thanks DriftMotion

IMGP2073 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

DM intercooler
DM 2.5" intercooler piping kit w/ couplers,aircraft clamps, and lots of brackets!! Good stuff guys!!
ARP crank bolts
DM intake kit/filter

IMGP2072 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Honestly, I can't remember what radiator this is..but I got it off Ebay.
Not a bad looking piece, and its super wide

IMGP2077 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr


Oem water pump
Toyota coolant
3 oil filters
2jz throttle cable
pilot bearing
2jz thermostat
2jz PCV valve(gotta give those 1jz twins a chance!)
other random gaskets...

IMGP2076 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Toyota over haul from Jeff at Champion Toyota in Houston

IMGP2083 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Hmm....is it the missing link?

IMGP2074 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Ah! Soarer R154 w/remote shifter!

IMGP2081 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

Even got the Soarer front driveshaft yoke so I can have my driveshaft customized locally.

IMGP2078 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr

That's about where I'm at. I'm waiting on the clutch slave, and the timing belt. Then when the harness gets here I'll install it, and get the motor ready to drop in.

Look's like I'm going to need a clutch set too...
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1995 Baltic Supra....sold
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Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 12:36 PM..
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Old 01-29-09, 10:33 PM   #10
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Nice documentary. Looking forward to the results.
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Old 01-29-09, 10:49 PM   #11
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gotta subscribe to this too
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Old 01-29-09, 10:56 PM   #12
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pure sex homie!!!! pure sex!!!!
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Old 01-29-09, 10:56 PM   #13
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in for progress
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoCoutureSC View Post
with the porsche you'll get more poon... no doubt...

the SC, you'll get no poon... something you might want to think about
*KMDB*
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Old 01-29-09, 11:37 PM   #14
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I went ahead and removed the auto tranny from the 1jz. Not fun..I had to use an offset 14mm wrench through the starter hole to get the torque converter bolts loose.

EDIT:this is the wrong way to do this, use the small clutch inspection hole at the bottom of the bellhousing to get at the bolts! I did all the work with the motor on the ground, so I really didn't even think about doing that! DoH!

After that a few taps with a rubber mallet and that heavy thing pops right off.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by RyanV; 02-14-09 at 10:33 AM..
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Old 01-29-09, 11:46 PM   #15
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Damn are you being thorough or what?!?! This should be the cleanest 1j around once its in!
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Old 01-29-09, 11:46 PM
 
 
 
 
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