I decided to start a thread documenting my 1jz swap into my 95' SC300 5MT chassis.
This whole deal started 2 weeks ago when my 2JZGE crank pulley started wobbling. I got to looking at the engine, and decided it would be cool to go ahead and do it up right, and go NA-T!
Well, as I started comparing cost, I couldn't help but realize that going NA-T correctly(using solid parts) is an expensive endeavor, and that I should go the 1jz route instead.
So, I called up Dzung at Jhot and started asking questions. He was VERY helpful and answered all of my dumb questions.
I ended up driving to Jhot a few days later, and bought an undocumented mileage 1jz complete swap.
I have to say this motor is just super clean! The more I look and inspect the parts the more I think it could only have 20-40k miles, for real.
So let's begin.
Take a look at this 2jzGE crank pulley first off. I can't believe it is so rusty. The rest of the car isn't rusty. I had to tap out the 2 holes because of the rust.
I also made another dumb mistake trying the ghetto method of getting the crank pulley off. We had 2 screwdrivers crammed into the flywheel teeth, and I ended up breaking this piece of the pan off!! Luckily, it doesn't seal anything back there(so the pan is not ruined)
At first, I was going to change the crank pulley, and be done with it. While I was waiting on the Toyota crank removal tools, I had a change of heart you could say. I decided to go turbo!
So, the motor has to come out. 1/17/2009
The charcoal canister tricked me, and it has a hidden clamp under the fender well that holds it on. Remove the clamp, and the canister will slide straight up outta the engine 'room' as the Japanese say.
The next 'hint' as the manual indicates is to use an M10 HEX socket to remove this stud for the a/c compressor. Great, off to the store I go...
You can see that I tied the power steering out of the way, for now.
The exhaust flange down at the downpipe was welded up from 156k miles of heat. The bolts were literally fused into the flange. I ended up using a high speed cutter and cut in between the flanges to cut through the fused bolts.
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The ECM isn't hard to get to. Takes about 10-15min tops
First you remove this plastic panel, theres 2 obvious fasteners.
Next you got the two glove box screws hidden behind the tabs. I removed the tabs with a picker.
You got another hidden screw top center in the glovebox.
Rather than unclipping the connector, just take a small flathead to this front/back side and remove it as one unit. There's 2 other small connectors on the left back side of the g/b
I used a flathead to easily remove the carpet trim as per the FSM.
This is what it looks like with the carpet rolled back a bit.
This one connector is a pain in the neck. I used my trusty flat head to exert force to the connector while pulling it out....and I cut my finger getting it out, but its cool!
Here's a 'hint' not in the FSM...tie the harness up before you pull it through the firewall...because it's pretty tight back there.
I could not get the exhaust off. The bolts were practically welded in place. You can see I sprayed it all down with PB Blaster real good.
Removing the passenger side motor mount bracket with a 14mm, if I recall, and a breaker bar made it easier to remove the motor. As you can see, a few oil leaks.
My friend Lorenzo showed up to help for a bit. Always nice to have an extra hand pulling/installing a motor.
EDIT: 4/16/2009- THE REAL TRICK IS TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE FRONT MASK< AND RADIATOR CORE SUPPORT. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SLIDE THE MOTOR RIGHT OUT< AND RIGHT ON BACK IN WITH EASE.
The trick with this motor is to jack it up a bit, and pull it towards the front of the car, rinse/repeat....
Also, we had to jack up the tranny so that the driveshaft slid out easier and wasn't bound up.
Wow, very grimey. I hate that.
Anyone want a late model Soarer W58 w/remote shifter?
I always use PB Blaster on any bolts or nuts I can see. Makes it easier to remove them later.
Another thing I tend to do is put nuts and bolts in baggies so that when I install the motor later, 1 month or 3 years down to the road. I ain't wasting time looking for nuts/bolts. That sucks...
I actually had to send Dr. Tweak my GE harness as well to use as reference, he isn't cutting on it or anything...so there it is sitting there.
It was much easier to remove than the GTE harness was.
So, crank removal. I decided to get the Toyota SST tools. They are about $120 for both pieces shipped. They allow you to hold the crank for removing/torquing the crank nut AND flywheel bolts. I've made my own flywheel holding tool before out of angle iron, and it sucks!
Here's what Toyota came up with.
I was able to turn the crank so that the tool was resting against the floor and wouldn't budge. I used a snap on breaker bar with a cheesey cheater, and it came right off. The SST tools simply kick ass.
Here's the standard rental cheapo puller.
Here's how my crank pulley was failing, and why it was wobbling. You can see how it has seperated.
I initially thought that my 2JZGE crank keyway might've been damaged from the crank pulley wobbling. Which would ruin the front end of the crank requiring a new crank to do it right, but the keyway is perfect! No damage at all, not even a mark on the crank from the pulley wobbling.
All this motor need's is the std overhaul gasket kit, and it's good to go!
I couldn't remove them from under the car, I tried. I think what happened is that my cat was somewhat clogged and caused immense heat which almost fused these bolts up.
big brakes...
So, this past Sunday, 1/25/09 I started removing the front bumper cover for the intercooler install.
You have to remove the front fender well liner to get to the two hidden headlight bolts. You also have 2 other bolts up top to undo from the bracket.
I had to use brother love to get one of the screws out of the radiator support. It had kinda rusted in.
Here she is!
Remember, I don't like grimey...
A little funky engine brite, and then some 99 cent oven cleaner...and I got this!
Remember to use saran wrap or cling wrap on all of the connectors in the engine bay when you wash it out, just in case. Plug the ECU firewall hole, and the other hole near the brake booster.
New crank pulley
DM engine mounts
Greddy speed cut eliminator
1jz belt w/AC
Timing tensioner
ss clutch line
ss power steering line
DM pulley kit sans crank pulley(dont want a solid crank pulley!)
Walbro fuel pump kit
Timing Belt(but I ordered the wrong one! I need 1jz specific so it's already in the mail Thanks DriftMotion
DM intercooler
DM 2.5" intercooler piping kit w/ couplers,aircraft clamps, and lots of brackets!! Good stuff guys!!
ARP crank bolts
DM intake kit/filter
Honestly, I can't remember what radiator this is..but I got it off Ebay.
Not a bad looking piece..I've had custom intercoolers built by bellintercoolers, that didn't look much better than this piece.
Oem water pump
Toyota coolant
3 oil filters
2jz throttle cable
pilot bearing
2jz thermostat
2jz PCV valve(gotta give those 1jz twins a chance!)
other random gaskets...
Toyota over haul from Jeff at Champion Toyota in Houston
Hmm....is it the missing link?
Ah! Soarer R154 w/remote shifter!
Even got the Soarer front driveshaft yoke so I can have my driveshaft customized locally.
That's about where I'm at. I'm waiting on the clutch slave, and the timing belt. Then when the harness gets here I'll install it, and get the motor ready to drop in.
Look's like I'm going to need a clutch disc too...didn't see that one coming..
I went ahead and removed the auto tranny from the 1jz. Not fun..I had to use an offset 14mm wrench through the starter hole to get the torque converter bolts loose.
EDIT:this is the wrong way to do this, use the small clutch inspection hole at the bottom of the bellhousing to get at the bolts! I did all the work with the motor on the ground, so I really didn't even think about doing that! DoH!
After that a few taps with a rubber mallet and that heavy thing pops right off.
My 1jzgte swap thread pic heavy!
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