UPDATE- the company i use for hosting my pics is down, that means no pics until they move providers and come back online... UPDATE - 2/25/2012 - I've switched to Yahoo Flickr and have started uploading photos so that I can re-populate the pictures
I decided to start a thread documenting my 1jz swap into my 95' SC300 5MT chassis.
This whole deal started 2 weeks ago when my 2JZGE crank pulley started wobbling. I got to looking at the engine, and decided it would be cool to go ahead and make some changes. I was initially thinking of installing a turbo on the 2JZ-GE.
Well, as I started comparing cost, I couldn't help but realize that going NA-T correctly(using solid named brand parts-AEM EMS etc) is an expensive endeavor, and I decided to drop in a Soarer 1JZ.
There were some reasons-
1. its my daily driver
2. stock GTE ecu drivability
3. the 1jz auto engine sets are relatively inexpensive
4. lower miles than my 2jzge
5. i figured i could sell my 2jzge stuff and pretty much pay for a the newer 1jz engine set(which I did)
So, I called up Jhot and started asking questions. They were very helpful and answered all of my questions.
I ended up driving to Jhot a few days later, and bought an undocumented mileage 1jz complete swap, mainly because it was super clean and it was by far the cleanest 1JZ engine set they had in the shop.
I have to say this motor is just super clean! The more I look and inspect the parts the more I think it could only have a legit 20-50k miles
The exhaust flange down at the downpipe was welded up from 156k miles of heat. The bolts were literally fused into the flange. I ended up using a high speed cutter and cut in between the flange until it seperated.
The ECM isn't hard to get to. Takes about 10-15min tops
First you remove this plastic panel, theres 2 obvious fasteners. IMGP1939 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
Next you got the two glove box screws hidden behind the tabs. I removed the tabs with a picker.
You got another hidden screw top center in the glovebox. IMGP1940 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
Rather than unclipping the connector, just take a small flathead to this front/back side and remove it as one unit. There's 2 other small connectors on the left back side of the g/b IMGP1944 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
I used a flathead to easily remove the carpet trim as per the FSM.
This is what it looks like with the carpet rolled back a bit. IMGP1946 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
Theres one body plug connector that is a pain in the neck. I used my trusty flat head to exert force to the connector while pulling it out....and I cut my finger getting it out, but its cool!
Here's a 'hint' not in the FSM...tie the harness up before you pull it through the firewall...because it's pretty tight back there. IMGP1949 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
I could not get the exhaust off. The bolts were practically welded in place. You can see I sprayed it all down with PB Blaster real good. IMGP1923 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
Removing the passenger side motor mount bracket with a 14mm, if I recall, and a breaker bar made it easier to remove the motor. As you can see, a few oil leaks. IMGP1935 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
My friend Lorenzo showed up to help for a bit. Always nice to have an extra hand pulling/installing a motor.
EDIT: 4/16/2009- THE REAL TRICK IS TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE FRONT MASK< AND RADIATOR CORE SUPPORT. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SLIDE THE MOTOR RIGHT OUT< AND RIGHT ON BACK IN WITH EASE.
The trick with this motor is to jack it up a bit, and pull it towards the front of the car, rinse/repeat....
Also, we had to jack up the tranny so that the driveshaft slid out easier and wasn't bound up.
Another thing I tend to do is put nuts and bolts in baggies so that when I install the motor later, 1 month or 3 years down to the road. I ain't wasting time looking for nuts/bolts. That sucks... IMGP2035 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
I actually had to send Dr. Tweak my GE harness as well to use as reference, and it was much easier to remove than the GTE harness was.
So, crank removal. I decided to get the Toyota SST tools. They are about $120 for both pieces shipped. They allow you to hold the crank for removing/torquing the crank nut AND flywheel bolts. I've made my own flywheel holding tool before out of angle iron, and it sucks!
I was able to turn the crank so that the tool was resting against the floor and wouldn't budge. I used a snap on breaker bar with a cheater bar, and it came right off. The SST tool simply kicks ***. IMGP1917 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
Here's how my crank pulley was failing, and why it was wobbling. You can see how it has seperated. IMGP2009 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
I initially thought that my 2JZGE crank keyway might've been damaged from the crank pulley wobbling. Which would ruin the front end of the crank requiring a new crank to do it right, but the keyway is perfect! No damage at all, not even a mark on the crank from the pulley wobbling.
A little funky engine brite, and then some 99 cent oven cleaner...and I got this!
Remember to use saran wrap or cling wrap on all of the connectors in the engine bay when you wash it out, just in case. Plug the ECU firewall hole, and the other hole near the brake booster.
New crank pulley
DM engine mounts
Greddy speed cut eliminator
1jz belt w/AC
ss clutch line
ss power steering line
DM pulley kit sans crank pulley(dont want a solid crank pulley!)
Walbro fuel pump kit
Timing Belt(but I ordered the wrong one! I need 1jz specific so it's already in the mail Thanks DriftMotion IMGP2073 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
DM 2.5" intercooler piping kit w/ couplers,aircraft clamps, and lots of brackets!! Good stuff guys!!
ARP crank bolts
DM intake kit/filter IMGP2072 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
Honestly, I can't remember what radiator this is..but I got it off Ebay.
Not a bad looking piece, and its super wide IMGP2077 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
Oem water pump
3 oil filters
2jz throttle cable
2jz PCV valve(gotta give those 1jz twins a chance!)
other random gaskets... IMGP2076 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
Toyota over haul from Jeff at Champion Toyota in Houston IMGP2083 by ryan_vela1, on Flickr
I went ahead and removed the auto tranny from the 1jz. Not fun..I had to use an offset 14mm wrench through the starter hole to get the torque converter bolts loose.
EDIT:this is the wrong way to do this, use the small clutch inspection hole at the bottom of the bellhousing to get at the bolts! I did all the work with the motor on the ground, so I really didn't even think about doing that! DoH!
After that a few taps with a rubber mallet and that heavy thing pops right off.