HOW TO: SC300 High Pressure Power Steering Hose
04-22-09, 11:37 PM
#16
how would i find where the leak is from ? i have only taken brief looks from above the engine bay btw. and my car starts then dies shortly unless i give it gas.. could this be because of fluid leaking onto the alternator ?
04-23-09, 10:15 PM
#19
03-25-10, 11:39 PM
#23
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thank you for post! ive been to 2 places asking them how much to replace hose and etc. i have the SAME EXACTLY LEAK and they say replace whole thing for 400-650 bucks. please tell me what it is called exactly so i can get the darn hose and fix this bad boy up.
P.S: reply fast, im leaking all over the streets of PS Fluids. i have 2 bottles of PS fluids in my car always filling up
P.S: reply fast, im leaking all over the streets of PS Fluids. i have 2 bottles of PS fluids in my car always filling up
03-26-10, 05:29 AM
#25
Now move on up to the top bolt, it should be a 22mm. Take off the vacuum hoses and remove the bolt. Set the double washer aside.
This is how how the hose looks like off the car, as you can see there are two sensors on each end.
Here is a picture with a new upper replacement hose.
REINSTALL: To make things easy, install the two 10mm bolts FIRST, this will be like a third hand when it comes to aligning and putting the banjo bolts back on. Dont forget about the double washers. I installed the upper banjo first and then did the lower banjo afterwards. I had trouble trying to get the upper banjo screwed in straight, this takes patience because there is not much slack with the hose. Both banjo bolts need to be torqued to 49ft-lbs. Connect the connector and connect the vacuum hoses. Replace the splash shield.
ALMOST DONE!
BLEEDING: While your car is jacked up with the wheels off the ground, pour DEXRON III Automatic Transmission Fluid in the reservoir(Or whatever your PS cap says). Start the car and let it idle for a few minutes. Turn the wheels lock to lock a few times. Your fluid may start foaming, this is from the air in the system. Now lower your car with the wheels on the ground. Pour some more fluid in the reservoir. Now turn your wheels lock to lock and hold it for 2-3 seconds on lock. Do this a few times until you don't see anymore bubbles in the reservoir and until the fluid level is normal. Replace cap and you are done!
This is how how the hose looks like off the car, as you can see there are two sensors on each end.
Here is a picture with a new upper replacement hose.
REINSTALL: To make things easy, install the two 10mm bolts FIRST, this will be like a third hand when it comes to aligning and putting the banjo bolts back on. Dont forget about the double washers. I installed the upper banjo first and then did the lower banjo afterwards. I had trouble trying to get the upper banjo screwed in straight, this takes patience because there is not much slack with the hose. Both banjo bolts need to be torqued to 49ft-lbs. Connect the connector and connect the vacuum hoses. Replace the splash shield.
ALMOST DONE!
BLEEDING: While your car is jacked up with the wheels off the ground, pour DEXRON III Automatic Transmission Fluid in the reservoir(Or whatever your PS cap says). Start the car and let it idle for a few minutes. Turn the wheels lock to lock a few times. Your fluid may start foaming, this is from the air in the system. Now lower your car with the wheels on the ground. Pour some more fluid in the reservoir. Now turn your wheels lock to lock and hold it for 2-3 seconds on lock. Do this a few times until you don't see anymore bubbles in the reservoir and until the fluid level is normal. Replace cap and you are done!
my line just started to leak as well but is there any reason that when having a hose company chop the hard line to weld fitting and basically make a new hose , still have the line loop around under the car .. why cant you eliminate the loop part and make the line 1 piece yet still using end fittings from oem
03-26-10, 11:53 AM
#26
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thanks ill try and get them somewhere from near me but im not entirely sure how im going to get it. my dads a mechanic though so ill go with him. thank you
03-26-10, 01:20 PM
#27
quick question on this
my line just started to leak as well but is there any reason that when having a hose company chop the hard line to weld fitting and basically make a new hose , still have the line loop around under the car .. why cant you eliminate the loop part and make the line 1 piece yet still using end fittings from oem
my line just started to leak as well but is there any reason that when having a hose company chop the hard line to weld fitting and basically make a new hose , still have the line loop around under the car .. why cant you eliminate the loop part and make the line 1 piece yet still using end fittings from oem
03-26-10, 01:23 PM
#28
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I too, did this repair vs. replace method at a local hydraulic hose shop. According to the repair shop tech, the high quality of the hard (metal) part of the OEM lines makes them ideal for reworking, as lesser quality lines won't stand up as well to repair work. One thing that came up though (worth mentioning), was the necessity to make sure the repair is done with the correct orientation (clocking) of the fittings throughout. There is very little give" in the hydraulic hose to allow twisting it for the fittings to mount up correctly. Any reputable shop should know this, but if the repair shop gets sloppy on this part, you'll have a hard time avoiding ridiculous kinks in the hoses (given its very definitive routing path). NA-T guys should pay special note too in regards to potential PS line / IC piping conflicts which may result from deviations in PS line location.
Regarding the picture above, I wanted to ask the OP: Is that a compression fitting that was added to allow rotation of the hose for ease of installation? If it is, it seems like a good idea and probably avoids the aforementioned problem.
Regarding the picture above, I wanted to ask the OP: Is that a compression fitting that was added to allow rotation of the hose for ease of installation? If it is, it seems like a good idea and probably avoids the aforementioned problem.
03-26-10, 01:29 PM
#29
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03-26-10, 03:21 PM
#30
I too, did this repair vs. replace method at a local hydraulic hose shop. According to the repair shop tech, the high quality of the hard (metal) part of the OEM lines makes them ideal for reworking, as lesser quality lines won't stand up as well to repair work. One thing that came up though (worth mentioning), was the necessity to make sure the repair is done with the correct orientation (clocking) of the fittings throughout. There is very little give" in the hydraulic hose to allow twisting it for the fittings to mount up correctly. Any reputable shop should know this, but if the repair shop gets sloppy on this part, you'll have a hard time avoiding ridiculous kinks in the hoses (given its very definitive routing path). NA-T guys should pay special note too in regards to potential PS line / IC piping conflicts which may result from deviations in PS line location.
Regarding the picture above, I wanted to ask the OP: Is that a compression fitting that was added to allow rotation of the hose for ease of installation? If it is, it seems like a good idea and probably avoids the aforementioned problem.
Regarding the picture above, I wanted to ask the OP: Is that a compression fitting that was added to allow rotation of the hose for ease of installation? If it is, it seems like a good idea and probably avoids the aforementioned problem.