rwdanthony

iTrader: (53)

so my clucth pedal always loses pressure after 6 months to a year. happened three times so far, and i rebuilt it twice, and now i just bought a brand new clutch master from toyota. while my clutch master is out, i went to inspect my clutch pedal assembly/operation. this spring [purple in photo]... is that spring suposed to push the pedal back up, against my foot. or is it suposed to pull the pedal down? thats my question. cause 90% of the arch the pedal takes, it will push the pedal downward to the floor. on my brother's miata, the sping is different design, but it constantly pushes up the pedal to the top. is my spring installed wrong?

note: factory 5spd, i never messed with the pedal assembly, unless previous owner did.

help me please. TIA

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

What did you rebuild twice?

I want to say that spring helps push the pedal back toward you after the pedal is depressed, but the bulk of your pedal pressure comes from the hydraulic system.

Did you bleed the system at the slave cylinder? Sounds like you had a lot of air in your system. I use a mityvac pump to bleed the clutch system.

rwdanthony

iTrader: (53)

i rebuilt the master the cylinder, the rod within, it was a rebuild kit from reybestos.

back to today, now that i put back my clutch master cylinder. i put in DOT 3 fluid into the resivior, and i was going to bleed the system, but while doing so with my brother, its as if theres still no clutch master [no hydrolic in sence]. could it be that theres so much air in the system, its gonna take much longer to bleed?

1985zcar

iTrader: (1)

Ever replaced the slave cylinder? Probably your issue.

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

The spring is fine. I agree with 1985zcar. It does sound like the slave cylinder. You are having the same symptoms I am having. Lucky for me I have a spare complete W58 drivetrain in my garage. So I went ahead and swapped the slave cylinder to see if that was the problem and sure enough it was. I would also recommend using DriftMotion's stainless steel braided lines to replace the hardlines that go from the master to the slave. Good luck!

SHOLEXMAN

You would still be able to get rid of the air in the system. Unless the rod or any other moving component was not creating pressure. Replace the slave cylinder and see if it improves. Check for any leaks in the system including the bell housing area. If you have some leaks there and you clutch is slipping that could be a pressure issue.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

When you rebuild a clutch master, it needs to be be bench bled really good or it may never operate properly.

Check your slave cylinder to see if it's leaking.

I would invest in a mityvac hand vaccum pump so that you can bleed the system from the slave cylinder really good.

plus you can use the mityvac to bleed your brake system by yourself quickly. It pays for itself.

If you bleed the crud out of your system from the slave cylinder and the problem still persists. you might want to switchout the slave cylinder, but usually not unless it's failed and has leaked everywhere, but its possible that the slave cylinder piston seal has started to fail and is sucking air into the system too.

rwdanthony

iTrader: (53)

ahh im guessing its the slave now too. i already rebuilt the slave as well when my master first failed on me, but now im scared that the fact when rebuilding it, i may have rebuilt it wrong or not completly proper...

im looking for a new slave, and get it done right, proper. and i was thinking about the ss line as well, but does it make that much of a difference?

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

I just like the stainless steel lines because it makes life a little easier when converting from auto to manual.

rwdanthony

iTrader: (53)

haha, im guessing its also easier to bolt up fittings haha