1siksc

iTrader: (8)

Introduction: I have made this post because of a thread of DSMTuners that inspired me to want to make one for 2jz's. All of the list i have pulled out from multiple websites and i want to make the list so it explains the reason why someone would want this and what it does. The webpage that i am making also gives you links to where you could find this product and the prices.

Basic Modifications

Engine
intake pipe + filter, a smoother pipe and better flowing intake will help throttle response and future mods.
boost controller, allows the turbo to push more air before the wastegate opens.
cat-back exhaust, giving you a more aggressive tone while at the same time allowing a less restrictive flow.
downpipe, the smoother the better 2.5 to 3inch would work fine.

Electronics
boost gauge, allows you to monitor your boost pressure to make sure you are over working anything that could get damaged.
Boost cut defender, for when you are boosting higer then the ste stock system this frees you from a momentary shutdown of the fuel system.
Turbo Timer, helps pump oil threw your systems longer allowing the turbo to cool down, less ware.

Suspension
Lowering Springs, brings the car lower to the ground, giving a little better aerodynamics and stiffer turning
Strut Tower Bars, keeps body sway to a minimum when taking tight turns.

Transmission
Short Shifter, allows a quicker shift with less movement


Advanced Modifications

Engine
Turbo Kit, depending upon what hp you want and how quick you want it to spool there is a variety of different turbos.
Engine Breather Kit, when pushing alot of hp you engine pressure goes up getting a breather kit would help release that pressure and catch any oil in the process
Intake Kit, since upgrading to a turbo kit the stock intake
Blow Off Valve, to release the pressure from your turbo when throttle is released
Downpipe, when thinking of what you would want to get for over 600hp a 3.5in to 4in would be recommended
Cat-Back Exhaust
Intercooler Kit
Injectors, the stock fuel system is limited by the 550cc injectors, depending on what hp you are looking for a certain cc is needed.
Fuel Rail, different styled fuel rails like top feed and dual feed center exit, allows a much greater flow of fuel to your injectors.
Dual Fuel pumps, an option if you choose to keep fuel tank, other option is Fuel cell and external fuel pump.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
camshafts
cam gears
Kavelar Timing Belt
Solid Motor Mounts, stock mounts can tare causing bad throttle response and rough feeling while driving.
Turbo Blanket, to block heat from entering engine bay leading to melted hoses and wires.
Radiator Hoses, to hold heat temperatures that the stock hoses can not.
Oil Cooler Kit, running large oil only turbos raise oil heat temperatures well above recommended operating temperatures running an oil cooler will help lower these. 10 Row recommended on Automatic vehicles to fit in the tight space.

Electronics
Boost Gauge
Turbo Timer
Gauges/ Wideband
Piggy Back/ Standalone

Suspension
Sway Bars
Strut Bars
Coil Overs
Camber Adjustment
Poly/Soild Bushings

Transmission
Short Shifter
Clutch
flywheel
LSD
Flywheel

Safety Equipment
Helmet
Roll Cage
Racing Seats/ Harnesses
Wider Wheels
Street Tires

Stopping/Going
Big Brake Upgrade


Drag Modifications

Engine
Stroker/ Engine Rebuild
Turbo Kit
Engine Breather Kit
Intake Kit
Blow Off Valve
Downpipe, for drag setups 4.5in to 5inch would be able to flow the exhaust with little resistance.
Cat-Back Exhaust
Intercooler Kit
Injectors
Fuel Rail
Solid Motor Mounts
Triple Fuel pumps, an option if you choose to keep fuel tank, other option is Fuel cell and external fuel pump.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
camshafts
cam gears
Kavelar Timing Belt
Turbo Blanket
Cooling Hoses
Oil Cooler Kit
Ignition
Idler Bearing Upgrade
Electric Water Pump, reduces drag on crank and increases water flow, great for cooling your car between drags.
Nitrous

Electronics
Boost Gauge
Turbo Timer
Gauges/ Wideband
Standalone ECU

Suspension
Coil Overs
Strut Bars
Sway Bars
Camber Adjustment
Poly/Soild Bushings

Transmission
Short Shifter
Clutch
flywheel
LSD
Flywheel
Transmission Upgrade
Stronger/ Lighter Driveshaft


Safety Equipment
Helmate
Roll Cage
Racing Seats/ Harnesses
Wider Wheels
Street Tires
Racing Gloves
Racing Shoes
Safety Suit

Stopping/Going
Big Brake Upgrade
Parachute
Wheelie Bar

jefferino

iTrader: (1)

Stage 1 might be a little more beneficial to you if you had a turbo on it...you have turbo kit listed on Stage 2.....

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

ummm what?

That-Guy

iTrader: (1)

if i'm not mistaken doesn't thompsen already have a 2jzgte swap, meaning he already has turbos on the car, meaning no turbo listed in stage 1, merely bpu.

1siksc

iTrader: (8)

yes i already have the gte swap and my badd this is a mods list for a 2jzgte

OneJay

iTrader: (14)

I think the intake manifold should belong in stage three. The stock one is plenty good for 600hp. There is a 10 second Supra in Colorado with ~700hp with the stock manifold and all accessories.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

I think this needs to be clarified.....That doesn't mean it isn't a restriction. Yes it could probably be money spent on other things. But this is an idea that is very confusing to people that read it and gives the wrong mindset. Same with the GTE heads, people say that they can be pushed to like 1000+. So what's your point? Lol. That doesn't mean that at all the same RPM/boost ranges it won't deliver more HP than without it.

Ok thats better, lol.

I hate it when people do this, lol. A BOV isn't a "performance upgrade" it's a preventative measure to take against premature failure of your turbo, that's its sole purpose. The only way it will increase your HP is if your stock or old one was venting it too early to atmosphere under boost. Not saying a better one isn't a good thing to spend money on, just don't wrap your mind around it being for performance and HP.

Skip the intake, skip the Boost cut defender, skip the dp. Save up for a single kit (piece one together) and save yourself a ton of money and time, trust me everyone does it. Unless you want to see how far you can take the twins, or have some other agenda for keeping them, you will waste money getting things the way you want them only to change a few months later that you will lose hundreds if not possibly thousands on. You'll say, "Well money is a factor as of now and I can't do a single kit just yet. I want to go faster now so I'll just do these other things." What you end up finding out is that you every penny you spent throwing at all the little misc. stuff gets pretty much resold at a 1/4 of the price, lost, or broken. So by thinking you're saving money, you're just loosing it. It's sad but true, lol. Not trying to discourage your mod bug in any way whatsoever, just take it from everyone that has done it already. Now if you would like to just take it step by step and follow the learning curve, that's a totally different story, but you will lose more money that way.

Jon

1siksc

iTrader: (8)

yeah, thats probably right, i shouldn't even make a 3 level process. Should actually make it like Choose you hp rating 450, 600-800, 1000+ and have it like that. and have steps to it so as you said people do not end up wasteing their money on stuff that would be getting replaced. I have expanded alot on this with safety equipment and suspension. and keep adding on. Recheck the first post it'll be updated shortly.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

CT I posted on SF as a friendly gesture not to be a punk, I would seriously take that post down or completely rearrange the nature of it. Do some research and come back with more specific questions and you will get alot more help and friendly answers.

AztecSN95

iTrader: (3)

There is a reason why terms like BPU(+) and APU came around. There are basic performance upgrades, which are your simple bolt ons, and they get progressively more advanced.

A "level one" car (BPU) is limited by the stock twins. You can do all you want in terms of building a motor etc, but if you're still on stock twins, you can only go so fast.

Once you go single, you're limited by your fuel and tune as well as additional supporting mods, so there really is no reason to make a chart and or list for upgrades with the exception of saying "this is how you can run high 11's-mid 12's," which seems to be the norm for full weight BPU cars. After that, you have so many options and so many routes to possibly go, its kind of crazy.

Is a single T61 comparable to going with a T67? No. Are the requirements the same? No. What boost level are you going to run on your single and what size turbo are you wanting to use? You can push 7psi through a big compressor on almost no fuel upgrades, or you can run 20+ on stock twins. Or you can go GT2835s. Or you can go T76+. What size FMIC are you using?

Most people look at a particular car that they would like to be relatively close to in power and mimic what that person did making changes as they see fit.

Sure, there's a general algorithm for going fast, but you can't simply say that you must have certain parts to do it.

AztecSN95

iTrader: (3)

Just a quick look through this list you find a lot of objective things on it. I wasn't exactly thorough, but the things in red are completely optional. For example, I know a few people personally with 600+ RWHP cars on minimal suspension, stock brakes, stock interiors, and stock-ish accessory lists. I also know of guys pushing out only 475 that have every accessory item known to man, and don't have the turbo, tune, or fuel required to go big...

You'll get better ideas from SF. While CL has a lot of fast cars on it, if you want a SOLID idea of what it takes to go fast and what it costs to do it right, SF has way more information and cars to use as reference.



Basic - for goal of 450hp
intake pipe + filter
boost gauge
boost controller
cat-back exhaust
downpipe
Boost cut defender
Turbo Timer
Lowering Springs
Strut Tower Bars
Short Shifter

Street - for goal of 500-1000hp
Turbo Kit
Intake Kit
Blow Off Valve
Downpipe
Cat-Back Exhaust
Boost Gauge
Turbo Timer
Coil Overs
Strut Bars
Sway Bars
Short Shifter
Intercooler Kit
Gauges/ Wideband
Piggy Back/ Standalone
Injectors
Fuel Rail
Dual Fuel pumps
Fuel Pressure Regulator
camshafts
cam gears
Kavelar Timing Belt
Clutch
LSD
Flywheel
Helmate
Roll Cage
Racing Seats/ Harnesses
Wider Wheels
Street Tires
Sway Bars
Strut Bars
Coil Overs
Camber Adjustment
Poly/Soild Bushings
Big Brake Upgrade
Turbo Blanket
Cooling Hoses
Oil Cooler Kit
Solid Motor Mounts
Engine Breather Kit

Drag - for goal of 1000hp+
Stroker/ Engine Rebuild
Turbo Kit
Intake Kit
Blow Off Valve
Downpipe
Cat-Back Exhaust
Boost Gauge
Turbo Timer
Coil Overs
Strut Bars
Sway Bars
Short Shifter
Intercooler Kit
Gauges/ Wideband
Standalone ECU
Injectors
Fuel Rail
Triple Fuel pumps
Fuel Pressure Regulator
camshafts
cam gears
Kavelar Timing Belt
Clutch
flywheel
LSD
Flywheel
Transmission Upgrade TO WHAT!?!?!?
Helmate
Roll Cage
Racing Seats/ Harnesses
Wider Wheels
Street Tires
Solid Motor Mounts
Sway Bars
Strut Bars
Coil Overs
Camber Adjustment
Poly/Soild Bushings
Big Brake Upgrade
Turbo Blanket
Cooling Hoses
Oil Cooler Kit
Ignition
Idler Bearing Upgrade
Stronger/ Lighter Driveshaft
Racing Gloves
Racing Shoes
Safety Suit
Electric Water Pump
Nitrous
Engine Breather Kit

1siksc

iTrader: (8)

Thank you AztecSN95 and SCoupe, i have been searching supra forums and all over google for questions and answers and thank you two for the information you have provided. I have made this post because of a thread of DSMTuners that inspired me to want to make one for 2jz's. All of the list i have pulled out from multiple websites and i want to make the list so it explains the reason why someone would want this and what it does. The webpage that i am making also gives you links to where you could find this product and the prices.

AztecSN95

iTrader: (3)

Again, while I think people will appreciate what you're trying to do in terms of making a rough sketch of what it will take to do certain things, there are too many variables to be accurate to any degree unless you are just generally speaking.

That is again why there are BPU packages from almost every aftermarket supplier who does anything with Supra products. And even those vary a great deal in the quality of parts and brands included in each.

Look at Titan, HPF, hell even Supra Store sells packaged components at the BPU level - and then they sell packages for other things. However those packaged are limited to sections of components. You can buy a fuel system from someone, and an EMS package from someone else. You can do a lot if you have an unlimited budget, but I feel as though you'd be better off illustrating one of two things. 1) How to go fast on a budget, or 2) unlimited resources race car. And again, both of those have so many variables that it is insane to fathom just how big your database will be.

Just know that your resource will most likely be underused due to the fact that CL, is300.net, SF, etc have been around for a LONG time, and the majority of people will find comfort in taking advice or following in the footsteps of the guys that have cars documented of making the type of power that they want to attain, or look the way they like, or are built for road courses, etc. Until you do something new or crazy with one of these cars that people will respect, most will use the other resources out there put together by those who have come before you.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Agree 100%. CT you are trying to condense thousands of possibilities into a single post in a single thread, it's just not gonna happen man. The terms reliability, street, drag, usable HP, safe/safety are all underlying themes in your post and every single one of those terms is completely subjective to the person building the car. We understand that you're trying to build your car and at the same time provide feedback and helpful info but this isn't the way to do it.

SCoupe

Put me down as the third to agree with both above posts.