durtysc300

to keep it short, i wont have the money for a turbo for a while..so i was scanning the Brian Crower website and they make camshafts, valves and valvesprings for our 2jzge..my question is..if i go BFI, 2.5 inch exhaust, .264 cams and valve spring/retainers and stainless steel valves, standard size, will i get any performance gains? would i have to change my Engine management? By exhaust i mean Xerd header, 2.5 inches all the way back..would i gain any by getting oversized valves and having my head matched?

c0wboy

BC doesn't make cams for a non VVt-I 2jzge.

Eric

durtysc300

Ah are you kidding me..**** then..well what if i upgraded my valves and valvesprings?

c0wboy

Probably not all that much by themselves. Cams make the most difference. There are 2jzge available, I don't have a link but a quick search will turn them up. There is a 268 grind and a massive 280 grind.

Eric

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

if you do cams you need springs. raising the rev limiter is a good idea. at least to 7500rpm. to do that you need engine management. cheapest way would be greddy e-manage ultimate.

doing stock sized valves wont do anything. maybe if you do ferrea undercut valves. if you have the head off might as well go to a reputable shop and have it ported, flow-benched, and have a valve job done. get a 3 angle job done. if they really know what they are doing and have a Serdi 100 valve machine have them do a radius valve job. the valve is cut at the typical 45* angle but the seat does not have any angle. it is round. the more you lap the wider you make the valve seat. (btw serdi 100 is the best one ever...all others suck, even newer serdi ones. the french did something right for once)

after all is said if you say you dont have money to go turbo then you definitely wont have the money to go higher hp NA motor. its not worth it.

i use to build toyota atlantic 4ag motors. those things made 245hp on the engine dyno at about 10,000-11,000 rpm. i have seen some rev 12,500. they dont last. crank and rod bearings go after every race. the revs were limited to 10,500 for a while. they all rules dropped. the cams were insane too. 310 and 305 IIRC. it didnt make power til 6500 or higher.

save for a 1jz swap. it will be cheaper then high hp NA build in the long run.

unreal-

I think for what you would spend for this N/A build, you could have a 1JZ/NA-T setup and make more power.

Gunnar

Agreed, which is why there isn't much in the way of high horsepower NA GE's floating around.

plex

iTrader: (11)

Maybe some Nitrous???? But you should just wait and go 1jz or na-t like others have said.

jadu

iTrader: (42)

i also thought about keeping my 2JZGE all motor and getting port and polish, I/H/E, weight reduction, but all those things really add up and really gotta pay to play with NA.

+2 on the most bang for your buck is saving up the 1JZ front clip and doing a swap

forcefed86

+1 on the Nitrous idea. Biggest bang for the buck hands down. As long as you read how to do it properly you will get the most for your money this way. IMO it's better than turbo anyway. (and I own an NA-T sc300).

Heres what I'd do.
Header/exhaust
tt Supra fuel pump with a 30amp relay.
2 ranges cooler spark plugs, retard timing 1* for each 50HP of N20.
Then isntall a 125HP N20 kit.

Now depending on what trans U have (which U didn't bother to tell us) You may have to stop there. Auto's won't hold much more than 350hp w/o modification. Same with 5 speeds. You'll need a good clutch.

Biggest problem with the sc300's is the trans. It's hard to hold all that power. Save your money and buy a nice built auto or a TH400 conversion.

Once U have a built trans bring out the WB02 and race gas or alchol injection, then an additional 2nd stage 125 shot. With a little tuning/research, you'd be amazed.

And as long as the bottle is off the car will drive like like a stocker.

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

nitrous is all nice and good but who wants to constantly push a button to get the "kick"

hey forcefed86 how much is the above described nitrous setup will run. the single stage and the the secondary setup as well?

forcefed86

Yea your right, 250 HP at the touch of a button seems like to much work....

If you think thats work just trade the sc in for a mustang. You'll be happier.

About 500-700 dollars depending on the goodies. You can get a used kit for under 300 for a one stage. Check out ebay for a wet fogger kit.

Punky

iTrader: (4)

If you want to be NA buy a v8. If you're going to use the i6 you're much better off with a NA-t, 2jz-gte or 1jz.

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

OMFG 250 hp with a push of a button? all that power. i dont think i will be able to contain myself. ill probably need a change of pants every time i drive it...and also a change of the bottle on weekly basis.

for the same 700 i can put together an NA-T setup that will do 300hp all day...with no changing of bottles

no thanks. i know what mustang are all about

let me ask you...do you drive spraying all day long? probably not. if you dont spray then you are driving just another SC.

if youre turbo'd then you have no such worries of timing. its all the push of the pedal...not a button.

from all this nonsense discussion it is easy to tell you are a straight-line type of guy. in that case you can take that soak box street racer to the local drag strip and have fun.

i wanna see you do the same on track...the one that has turns i mean.

make sure to take a video too.

no disrespect but different options for different people. if i was only concerned of running local civics for bragging right behind the mall i would get a nitrous kit too.

durtysc300

my plan is to go NA-T soon, just a conservative setup to make just to 350-375 rwhp, you say you can do that for under 700? lol..but for now i just did a BFI, getting exhaust/headers and maybe go nitrous..i would love to see my car hit a 13 sec. 1/4 mile with these mods. is that even possible?