1JZ no start...got fuel and spark.
10-18-08, 02:17 AM
#1
1JZ no start...got fuel and spark.
Can't figure out what it could be. Cranks but doesn't feel like it's even trying to start. Already did the neutral safety bypass. Ran straight 12v to fuel pump but verified it was working fine without, but either way didn't start then either. Pulled all plugs in coils and verified all spark.
Anyone have any ideas of what else to check? We're stumped.
Also, I've got a large black plug on the passenger side of my engine compartment that comes out of that harness that runs along the fender kind of, anyone know what that's supposed to/did connect to?
I'm so freakin frustrated right now, I just want my car to work, hah.
Anyone have any ideas of what else to check? We're stumped.
Also, I've got a large black plug on the passenger side of my engine compartment that comes out of that harness that runs along the fender kind of, anyone know what that's supposed to/did connect to?
I'm so freakin frustrated right now, I just want my car to work, hah.
10-18-08, 10:43 AM
#2
Pole Position
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any CEL code? Did you visually see the spark? Can you smell the fuel on the spark plugs for all cylinder? If you got fuel and spark, only 2 things left to check. 1 is compression. 2 is timing, but if your getting fuel and spark, your timing should be fine. Check those 2.
10-18-08, 04:23 PM
#3
Yeah we pulled all the coils and plugs out, grounded them, and saw all of them spark. And yeah you can smell fuel when the gas pedal is pulled while cranking.
Are there any wiring issues that I could have? Anything that has to be changed over/spliced, etc. that I may not have done that would cause a no-start?
We're going to try my friends TPS and ignitor to rule those two things out probably tomorrow evening.
Any suggestions on what else to try in the meantime would be great though.
Are there any wiring issues that I could have? Anything that has to be changed over/spliced, etc. that I may not have done that would cause a no-start?
We're going to try my friends TPS and ignitor to rule those two things out probably tomorrow evening.
Any suggestions on what else to try in the meantime would be great though.
10-19-08, 12:55 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How I got my car to start: Body plugs harness was not connect all the way.
I had the similar issue about a month. The car would crank fine and it almost wants to start if I spray some engine starter fluid. First, I thought I didn't have any fuel or spark. I took off the fuel return hose to check and it squirts out fine. Next I check the sparks and realize I only got spark on 1,3,5. I check all wires for 2,4,6. I switched to a new ignitor but no change. I was stomped for a good 2 weeks. I went back inside the car and check the ecu wire for those sparks plugs, cam sensor, knock sensor. Didn't see a problem when i use the volt meter. After that the engine won't start/crank, just silent. I figure I bumped into the ECU plug or something. I kept trying to unplug and plug but still won't work, somehow I got the car to cranking again. I figure it's the body plugs because the ECU plugs were sturdy. I replug the body plugs in and saw sparks on all 1,2,3,4,5,6. I put the engine back together and it starts fine. I think I messed up body plugs really bad so I won't connect well. The body plug is a great place to look. I assume you probably did a pretty good job on soldering, so that's probably the last place to look, since you know it's gonna be pain to go through it.
I had the similar issue about a month. The car would crank fine and it almost wants to start if I spray some engine starter fluid. First, I thought I didn't have any fuel or spark. I took off the fuel return hose to check and it squirts out fine. Next I check the sparks and realize I only got spark on 1,3,5. I check all wires for 2,4,6. I switched to a new ignitor but no change. I was stomped for a good 2 weeks. I went back inside the car and check the ecu wire for those sparks plugs, cam sensor, knock sensor. Didn't see a problem when i use the volt meter. After that the engine won't start/crank, just silent. I figure I bumped into the ECU plug or something. I kept trying to unplug and plug but still won't work, somehow I got the car to cranking again. I figure it's the body plugs because the ECU plugs were sturdy. I replug the body plugs in and saw sparks on all 1,2,3,4,5,6. I put the engine back together and it starts fine. I think I messed up body plugs really bad so I won't connect well. The body plug is a great place to look. I assume you probably did a pretty good job on soldering, so that's probably the last place to look, since you know it's gonna be pain to go through it.
10-19-08, 09:35 PM
#6
Yeah I had a good friend of mine do the extension on the body harness, he sodered and heatwrapped every single connection, so it should be good...I'll check and make sure all the body plugs are in and secured well. Didn't extend the engine harness because I'm running a FCon VPro, but right now we tried starting it with and without that just to rule out that as a possible problem.
So next time I work on the car this is what I'll be doing for sure:
Check the body plugs and make sure they're connected well.
Swap ignitors with my friends 1Js to rule that out.
Swap TPS with my friends 1J to rule that out.
He might bring his ECU to swap that out and rule that out.
Need to check my crank and cam sensors as well, need to know where they're located...
Also, my waterpump is leaking
gotta replace that. How difficult is that on the 1J? I have two friends with 1Js (one with a Soarer, one with a Supra) and one says it was fairly easy, other says it's the most difficult waterpump he's ever done, haha
So next time I work on the car this is what I'll be doing for sure:
Check the body plugs and make sure they're connected well.
Swap ignitors with my friends 1Js to rule that out.
Swap TPS with my friends 1J to rule that out.
He might bring his ECU to swap that out and rule that out.
Need to check my crank and cam sensors as well, need to know where they're located...
Also, my waterpump is leaking
gotta replace that. How difficult is that on the 1J? I have two friends with 1Js (one with a Soarer, one with a Supra) and one says it was fairly easy, other says it's the most difficult waterpump he's ever done, haha
10-23-08, 12:48 AM
#7
YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEES!!!!!!!!! The car starts and runs now!!!!!!!
We spent several hours trying to diagnose why it wouldn't start, swapped/re-gapped spark plugs, checked for spark, checked the coilpacks, checked for fuel, checked injectors, swapped ignitors, swapped ECUs, swapped MAPs, swapped TPS, etc etc etc.
Finally, we were like "Well, what the hell, let's check timing."
Turns out, that **** was like 90 degrees out. I guess the person that last did a timing belt somehow aligned the cams properly but made the crankshaft alignment mark point straight down, instead of at the 0. So we set it correct and of course it fired right up.
This was using the old timing belt though...so next up is to replace the timing belt and water pump. STILL waiting for the power steering reservoir, and I need to find the spacer that goes between the throttle body and the TPS, then it'll be all good to go!!!!!
We spent several hours trying to diagnose why it wouldn't start, swapped/re-gapped spark plugs, checked for spark, checked the coilpacks, checked for fuel, checked injectors, swapped ignitors, swapped ECUs, swapped MAPs, swapped TPS, etc etc etc.
Finally, we were like "Well, what the hell, let's check timing."
Turns out, that **** was like 90 degrees out. I guess the person that last did a timing belt somehow aligned the cams properly but made the crankshaft alignment mark point straight down, instead of at the 0. So we set it correct and of course it fired right up.
This was using the old timing belt though...so next up is to replace the timing belt and water pump. STILL waiting for the power steering reservoir, and I need to find the spacer that goes between the throttle body and the TPS, then it'll be all good to go!!!!!
Trending Topics
10-23-08, 06:54 AM
#8
Yea man, Get it running that way you can use the HKS F-Con V to its full potential.(BTW its not the PRO version unless you traded it out to some one else, the Fcon V Pro version is a gold box and full on standalone, Fcon V is a piggyback that controls ignition, fuel, spark.)
10-23-08, 07:49 PM
#11
Yeah, so retarded...I would think the place I ordered the engine from does a compression test, which would've resulted in like nothing with how it was set up, so that's kinda shady...I'm gonna email them and let them know what I think of that...anyways, I'm headn' out there now to do timing belt, waterpump, and power steering reservoir, then hopefully take it for a spin 
haha
haha
10-24-08, 03:55 AM
#12
k, got the t-belt and waterpump done. finished putting everything back together and took it for a spin.
Tach doesn't work
Forgot to check if water temp gauge works
And the main problem, I've got the hesitation around 3k rpm (guessing since that's what I've heard happens.)
Does someone have the solution to this? OneJay, I remember you saying something about cutting some wire? What else would cause this? It'll do it under any throttle conditions. Help please! I wanna go drive around this weekend
Tach doesn't work
Forgot to check if water temp gauge works
And the main problem, I've got the hesitation around 3k rpm (guessing since that's what I've heard happens.)
Does someone have the solution to this? OneJay, I remember you saying something about cutting some wire? What else would cause this? It'll do it under any throttle conditions. Help please! I wanna go drive around this weekend
10-24-08, 09:04 AM
#13
Ya, its the black wire number 10 on the white body plug next to the orange one. And for the tach, take out the cluster, and solder a piece of wire to bypass resistor r109 (r73 if its a 95) on the back of the cluster, and for the temp, you have to ground a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire on the body side of the white body plug. (Take out the plug and look at the wires on the body side)
10-24-08, 09:17 AM
#14
Ya, its the black wire number 10 on the white body plug next to the orange one. And for the tach, take out the cluster, and solder a piece of wire to bypass resistor r109 (r73 if its a 95) on the back of the cluster, and for the temp, you have to ground a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire on the body side of the white body plug. (Take out the plug and look at the wires on the body side)