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#106
Lexus Test Driver
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For OBD I (1992-1995)
If you cut the wire at the ecu, there will NOT be any light on the dash, but there will be a trans code stored.
For OBD II (1996+)
I highly suggest cutting it at the ecu, you WILL get a check engine light no matter what. If you reconnect things, the CEL wont go away till like a couple days later.
If you disconnect the O/D speed sensor from the tranny, then your car will shift early.
Cut the wire from the ecu, put a relay switch on it, and call it a day.
#107
#111
Racer
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Nevermind. I just checked the ECU again. I was thinking the 3rd part next to E12 was part of E12.
Anyway, there's a gray wire first, then a red/white wire, and then thicker red wire. According to the diagram, pin 13 is the 3rd piece in from the left, but do the X's in the diagram represent other wires that don't relate to the tranny, or are they representing the little round plug looking things?
Anyway, there's a gray wire first, then a red/white wire, and then thicker red wire. According to the diagram, pin 13 is the 3rd piece in from the left, but do the X's in the diagram represent other wires that don't relate to the tranny, or are they representing the little round plug looking things?
#113
You should have a light blue wire directly next to the correct red / black wire. The light blue wire is for tc lockup. I always look at the surrounding pins / wire colors for reference to make sure I'm in the right spot and have the right wire.
KC
#114
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Oh wow, so is that pinout diagram wrong? I got the pic straight off one of my repair manuals
Hey KC,
On a side note. I've been trying to find a way to make the check engine light stay off and still have the same effects of disconnecting the solenoid. Do you have access to the DTC obdII detection conditions for the solenoid? Or better yet, the wiring diagram for obdII?
So far, I've got a microprocessor sending a "simulated" signal to the ecu through NCO+ and NCO-. Essentially, I made a "fake" O/D speed sensor. Right now the output voltage is high with a period of idle. This makes the ecu think the load of the transmission is less then what it really is and therefore uses the solenoid 4 a lot less. Thats the only problem, it doesn't give the full effect. But on the bright side, no check engine light!
Let me know what you think, I've been researching how to exploit without getting a CEL and getting the best effect.
Hey KC,
On a side note. I've been trying to find a way to make the check engine light stay off and still have the same effects of disconnecting the solenoid. Do you have access to the DTC obdII detection conditions for the solenoid? Or better yet, the wiring diagram for obdII?
So far, I've got a microprocessor sending a "simulated" signal to the ecu through NCO+ and NCO-. Essentially, I made a "fake" O/D speed sensor. Right now the output voltage is high with a period of idle. This makes the ecu think the load of the transmission is less then what it really is and therefore uses the solenoid 4 a lot less. Thats the only problem, it doesn't give the full effect. But on the bright side, no check engine light!
Let me know what you think, I've been researching how to exploit without getting a CEL and getting the best effect.
#115
No, the pinout is not wrong just different. One shows the connector from the backside (yours) and one shows it from the front side (ewd). It can be confusing. LOL. If you look at the diagram (post 53) you'll notice the numbers are backwards compared to the pic you posted above.
I can look up the info on Monday for you. I think it's very cool that you're working on it, trying to keep the light off.
If I don't post some info for you on Monday, PM me to remind me.
KC
Edit - I'm off Monday, I can look it up Tuesday.
I can look up the info on Monday for you. I think it's very cool that you're working on it, trying to keep the light off.
If I don't post some info for you on Monday, PM me to remind me.
KC
Edit - I'm off Monday, I can look it up Tuesday.
#118
Planning a new transmission mod.
So far I have shimmed the accumulators, upped the line pressure, installed the Suprastick and cutout the no 4 solenoid.
Well, ever since adding water / meth injection I've started hitting the rev limiter again. I keep needing to lower the MPH setting for the 1-2 shift on the Suprastick. I'm down to 24mph for the 1-2 shift, keep in mind the stock ECU shifts at 40-44 mph.
I ran the other night with both the water / meth injection and the intercooler and I bounced off the rev limiter like crazy.
So, I have sent a valve body to IPT for them to mod for me. Should have it installed by Thursday. I have high hopes.
KC
So far I have shimmed the accumulators, upped the line pressure, installed the Suprastick and cutout the no 4 solenoid.
Well, ever since adding water / meth injection I've started hitting the rev limiter again. I keep needing to lower the MPH setting for the 1-2 shift on the Suprastick. I'm down to 24mph for the 1-2 shift, keep in mind the stock ECU shifts at 40-44 mph.
I ran the other night with both the water / meth injection and the intercooler and I bounced off the rev limiter like crazy.
So, I have sent a valve body to IPT for them to mod for me. Should have it installed by Thursday. I have high hopes.
KC
#119
Lexus Champion
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KC, after much debate i finally man'ed up and cut the wire. Holy SHI*. My sc4 only has an intake and full exhaust (no resonators either) and it broke the wheels loose off the line. It almost feels as if it accelerates harder and faster (maybe thats in my mind). Now i just need some FI to go with this and ill have so much fun.
#120
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
KC, after much debate i finally man'ed up and cut the wire. Holy SHI*. My sc4 only has an intake and full exhaust (no resonators either) and it broke the wheels loose off the line. It almost feels as if it accelerates harder and faster (maybe thats in my mind). Now i just need some FI to go with this and ill have so much fun.