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Old 04-13-09, 06:55 PM
  #106  
sc-driver
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Originally Posted by UZZ30-SC4
^ I want to know the same, also what if i ran a switch to the sensor on the bell housing, will the light immediately go away when i reconnect power?
As far as I was able to understand.

For OBD I (1992-1995)
If you cut the wire at the ecu, there will NOT be any light on the dash, but there will be a trans code stored.

For OBD II (1996+)
I highly suggest cutting it at the ecu, you WILL get a check engine light no matter what. If you reconnect things, the CEL wont go away till like a couple days later.

If you disconnect the O/D speed sensor from the tranny, then your car will shift early.

Cut the wire from the ecu, put a relay switch on it, and call it a day.
Old 04-15-09, 08:50 AM
  #107  
ScottURnot
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I'm on it, We don't allow this type of talk on CL.

Thread is cleaned, Keep it on track!

Last edited by ScottURnot; 04-15-09 at 09:00 AM.
Old 04-17-09, 08:38 PM
  #108  
MongooseGA
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OBD-I SC400... Which wire am I cutting? I just pulled the carpet back and accessed the ECU, but damn, what a mess of wires...
Old 04-18-09, 11:25 AM
  #109  
KC95SC400
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I though I posted the wiring diagram, look for it in this thread. If you can't find it, LMK and I'll post it again later tonight.

KC
Old 04-18-09, 12:38 PM
  #110  
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OK, I found it in post #53. Just to clarify with a person before a diagram first:

Right side of the ECU (being the 3rd 'cluster' of wires), it's the first wire at the top of the cluster. Should be the white wire, correct?
Old 04-18-09, 01:05 PM
  #111  
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Nevermind. I just checked the ECU again. I was thinking the 3rd part next to E12 was part of E12.

Anyway, there's a gray wire first, then a red/white wire, and then thicker red wire. According to the diagram, pin 13 is the 3rd piece in from the left, but do the X's in the diagram represent other wires that don't relate to the tranny, or are they representing the little round plug looking things?
Old 04-18-09, 07:50 PM
  #112  
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Here you go... this is the view looking at the ecu. Hope that clarifies your confusion.
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Old 04-18-09, 08:44 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by sc-driver
Here you go... this is the view looking at the ecu. Hope that clarifies your confusion.
And that's where it can get confusing. The connector pic shown in the wiring diagram is showing the FRONT side of the connector, the ECU side. The pic above is showing the BACK side of the connector, the wiring side.

You should have a light blue wire directly next to the correct red / black wire. The light blue wire is for tc lockup. I always look at the surrounding pins / wire colors for reference to make sure I'm in the right spot and have the right wire.

KC
Old 04-18-09, 09:14 PM
  #114  
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Oh wow, so is that pinout diagram wrong? I got the pic straight off one of my repair manuals

Hey KC,

On a side note. I've been trying to find a way to make the check engine light stay off and still have the same effects of disconnecting the solenoid. Do you have access to the DTC obdII detection conditions for the solenoid? Or better yet, the wiring diagram for obdII?

So far, I've got a microprocessor sending a "simulated" signal to the ecu through NCO+ and NCO-. Essentially, I made a "fake" O/D speed sensor. Right now the output voltage is high with a period of idle. This makes the ecu think the load of the transmission is less then what it really is and therefore uses the solenoid 4 a lot less. Thats the only problem, it doesn't give the full effect. But on the bright side, no check engine light!

Let me know what you think, I've been researching how to exploit without getting a CEL and getting the best effect.
Old 04-18-09, 09:20 PM
  #115  
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No, the pinout is not wrong just different. One shows the connector from the backside (yours) and one shows it from the front side (ewd). It can be confusing. LOL. If you look at the diagram (post 53) you'll notice the numbers are backwards compared to the pic you posted above.

I can look up the info on Monday for you. I think it's very cool that you're working on it, trying to keep the light off.

If I don't post some info for you on Monday, PM me to remind me.

KC

Edit - I'm off Monday, I can look it up Tuesday.
Old 04-18-09, 10:01 PM
  #116  
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Thanks to both of you guys for the clarification. I'm really glad I didn't cut anything today. I thought my ECU was wired differently for some reason because none of it matched up to the diagram. Ha!
Old 05-18-09, 12:16 AM
  #117  
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Plump.....
Old 06-05-09, 07:04 PM
  #118  
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Planning a new transmission mod.

So far I have shimmed the accumulators, upped the line pressure, installed the Suprastick and cutout the no 4 solenoid.

Well, ever since adding water / meth injection I've started hitting the rev limiter again. I keep needing to lower the MPH setting for the 1-2 shift on the Suprastick. I'm down to 24mph for the 1-2 shift, keep in mind the stock ECU shifts at 40-44 mph.

I ran the other night with both the water / meth injection and the intercooler and I bounced off the rev limiter like crazy.

So, I have sent a valve body to IPT for them to mod for me. Should have it installed by Thursday. I have high hopes.

KC
Old 06-21-09, 08:50 PM
  #119  
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KC, after much debate i finally man'ed up and cut the wire. Holy SHI*. My sc4 only has an intake and full exhaust (no resonators either) and it broke the wheels loose off the line. It almost feels as if it accelerates harder and faster (maybe thats in my mind). Now i just need some FI to go with this and ill have so much fun.
Old 06-21-09, 09:33 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by xxtoobsxx
KC, after much debate i finally man'ed up and cut the wire. Holy SHI*. My sc4 only has an intake and full exhaust (no resonators either) and it broke the wheels loose off the line. It almost feels as if it accelerates harder and faster (maybe thats in my mind). Now i just need some FI to go with this and ill have so much fun.
Need boost i can set you up with a full m112 package...


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