R154 swap with undesirable outcome, help please...
09-01-08, 11:08 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
R154 swap with undesirable outcome, help please...
today i finished my R154 swap, checked and double checked everything. finally i started the car and tried to back out of my spot and the shifter won't go in gear, it would grind. I raised the rear wheels then tried to put it in first, still, wont go in, BUT the wheels would spin, and once i let off the shifter it would stop. Keep in mind, this happens while the pedal is depressed all the way
the same thing would happen with all the gears. Then, i turned the car off and put it in gear, and it will stay in gear but won't disengage when i depress the clutch pedal. now, this points to my clutch line including the master, slave, pressure plate and disk, but they're all brand new and my line was bled. I went under the car to look through the inspection covers, and the slave seems to be pushing the fork, it moved about 1/2 - 3/4", does that sound sufficient for the slave push. What could be wrong? I followed the instructions in the manual to the T and took my time, help is very apprecited......
the same thing would happen with all the gears. Then, i turned the car off and put it in gear, and it will stay in gear but won't disengage when i depress the clutch pedal. now, this points to my clutch line including the master, slave, pressure plate and disk, but they're all brand new and my line was bled. I went under the car to look through the inspection covers, and the slave seems to be pushing the fork, it moved about 1/2 - 3/4", does that sound sufficient for the slave push. What could be wrong? I followed the instructions in the manual to the T and took my time, help is very apprecited......
09-01-08, 11:41 AM
#4
Instructor
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pedal height was adjusted to 6 inches. A question, how would that affect the operation of the transmission though, i dont understand that. BTW, i don't have an adjustment screw, i only adjusted the height from the master cylinder rod..
09-01-08, 11:46 AM
#6
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but i'm not sure how far it's supposed to push the fork! Also, can you have too much pedal travel? or it only matters when it's too short?
Last edited by madmax98; 09-01-08 at 12:16 PM.
09-01-08, 11:48 AM
#7
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I rotated the rod till the pedal went all the way up and still, nothing changed
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09-01-08, 12:14 PM
#8
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I put a bolt in the adjustment screw hole and now it's pushing the pedal 1/2 to 1" from the very top or maximum stroke, Is that how you guys have it on your cars?
09-01-08, 05:17 PM
#10
well here's the thing. if it's a 5spd swap, there could be issues with clutch pedal travel and certain clutch combos.
in my maxima, which was a 5spd swap, I had an issue with spec clutches, and had the same problems as you.
it can go into gear when car is off, but as soon as the car turns on, it was impossible, and everything was bled, and replaced.
What I did was make a spacer out of a 1/4" socket. basically rounded the end off, and made it to it extend the rod in the slave cylinder, just enough to fit. Right off the bat after this mod, it worked perfectly. just make sure the rod is sturdy, and won't move. (the pressure holds it on). i used a socket because it fit pretty nicely on the end of the rod.
let me know how it goes.
in my maxima, which was a 5spd swap, I had an issue with spec clutches, and had the same problems as you.
it can go into gear when car is off, but as soon as the car turns on, it was impossible, and everything was bled, and replaced.
What I did was make a spacer out of a 1/4" socket. basically rounded the end off, and made it to it extend the rod in the slave cylinder, just enough to fit. Right off the bat after this mod, it worked perfectly. just make sure the rod is sturdy, and won't move. (the pressure holds it on). i used a socket because it fit pretty nicely on the end of the rod.
let me know how it goes.
09-01-08, 06:31 PM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Tav, i also did the manual swap on my maxima, but i didn't have problems with the clutch lines, so that suggests the presence of another problem. this also is a 5 speed swap, everything is new except for the tranny. This's very frustrating since i won't have time to look at it till next weekend.....
09-02-08, 04:57 AM
#12
did you replace the clutch before reinstall , did you buy clutch for 7mgte 88-92
did you make sure the 2 snap rings where on the yoke that holds the release/throwout bearing properly..
i have a soarer 154 and a small piece of the yoke lip cracked off because the snap ring did not sit into the grooves properly and because of that the release bearing would not fully release so pressure plate would not engage and disengage properly
i am assuming you know what the yoke is and also check and make sure shifter fork is snapped in all the way .. pull the fork out and snap it in hard just to make sure
did you make sure the 2 snap rings where on the yoke that holds the release/throwout bearing properly..
i have a soarer 154 and a small piece of the yoke lip cracked off because the snap ring did not sit into the grooves properly and because of that the release bearing would not fully release so pressure plate would not engage and disengage properly
i am assuming you know what the yoke is and also check and make sure shifter fork is snapped in all the way .. pull the fork out and snap it in hard just to make sure
09-05-08, 12:42 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
Today, i loosened the pressure plate and made sure my disk was on the right side, everything looked fine, however, when the car is off, the tranny is much easier to shift just like it was off the car. Is there a certain way t install the clutch setup? I followed the instructions in the manual! but obviously isn't working! What am i doing wrong...