vangyang

hi there.....well i was just wondering wat is better going NA-t or wit a motor swap...........ive looked at alot of the turbo kits and they seem alright but i dono if they r better than just getting a motor swap.....plus i only have about $3000 to spend but the cost of a turbo kit and a motor swap is about the same so i was just wondering wat your guys think i should do....i drive a 95 sc300 thats only has 116000 miles........thanks

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

OneJay

iTrader: (14)

It depends on what your goals are. If you want a reliable daily driver, then do a swap, but if you want a high hp car thats a little tougher to drive, then go NA-T.

frdykrugar

I disagree. Na-T would be better (probably cheaper since less labor) if and only if your motor is in good condition meaning good compression, no leaks, no burning oil. Very good na-t kit could be had for 1500 dollars and you'll have your car up and running for about 2000. Engine swap is simple and easy but still alot more labor than installing a turbo kit. I would go with a turbo kit IMO. that's what I'm doing.

plex

iTrader: (11)

Whichever one you do please get a good ems setup for tuning.

FormosaSC

im thinking about this as well. Na-t is good but a custom manifold is what i would do, however that cost a lot just for a manifold, i think i might go the tt route because of that.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

na-t can be done for your goals

i am na-t putting down around 500 give or take at about 18psi-19psi

just make sure you have the right supporting mods and the right piggyback or standalone and have it tuned conservatively


engine swap is cool but for the price of the motor then labor to install and wire up you are still on stock twins which have limits

sc13

where can you get a good turbo kit for 1500$ because i also just bought a 95 sc3 5peed an want to go na-t

gdc5ind

http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/index.php
but i would just swap a 1jz or 2jz in from jhot or local import shop

vntperform

iTrader: (15)

NA-T with AEM EMS. motorheaddown just made over 800rwhp on his NA-T setup and very reliable too.

mhlamin

NA-T, thats the smartest thing you could ever do.

trufanatic

i've seen alot of na-t's doing over 600whp with just a head gasket, turbo kit and tuning...depending on power goals and budget.

NA-T's stop breathing around 700whp because of the stock cams. then you'd have to do a DIS conversion and thro the distributer and get some TT cams. with that done 800whp is atainable.

SHIFT...

Are you guys serious?? i had no clue that a na 2j can put down these levels of whp on stock block's!!! im new to the toyota world so please bare with me.......lol

Let me ask you guys a question, how much will 500whp cost me on my 1994 5spd sc300??? i wanna know what im looking @.

trufanatic

i dont kno about cost but here is a laundry list to start.

r154 tranny with 1jz bellhousing
Stock supra TT headgasket
turbo manifold
60 trim turbo
aem ems or motec - STAY AWAY FROM PIGGYBACKS if you like your motor
new flywheel and clutch
oil feed and return lines
custom or boost logic IC and piping

I think thats about it but i would highly recommend a GTE style intake manifold, this will yield great gain simply because the air has more of a direct path to travel but theyre pretty expensive. you can do the turbo stuff first and see how the car holds up and then do the tranny swap because thats going to be a good chunk. the w58 can hold 350-400whp....but this is a hit or miss with alot these cars. dont forget that the motor is still a 2jz. actually the NA head breathes better than the GTE because it has larger ports but the cams are the limitation. have fun

cost....maybe 4k to be conservative

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

i disagree with the piggyback thing

i have about 500 rwhp on my 97 obdII using a map ecu and a/f are perfect// idle is steady crusie in the 14ish range wot always enters at 11.5-11.7 and goes down to around 10.9 to 11.1 my egt guage verfies a/f are correct for the temp stays under 1300f

if you are looking in the 400 range to mid 5's with correct fuelmods and all other supporting mods running a good piggy back with a good tune is just as good as a standalone without the tuning issues of tuning a full standalone afterall toyota knew what they were doing when the programmed the stock ecu .. we are not running in boost all the time so driving in vacumm is great with stock ecu .. dont get me wrong they there the occaisional hiccup but even standalones have issues some quite major

if you are tuning to the ragged edge of your supporting mods then the ability to pull timing becomes a issue and even the map ecu 2 will do that which is what i intend to do shortly when i convert to the tt style intake and larger throttle body .. my goals are in the mid to upper 5 range and i am convinced having timing control is critical when going the high in rwhp