This thread will be merged with the other thread that I had already started on swapping my R154 into an SC400 behind a 2jzgte. I have asked the moderators to delete the other one so if any of you are looking for it I put all the relevant information in this thread from myself and others that offered good knowledgeable info. So, here we go:
This is everything I used to do the swap:
R154 from an MKIII Supra
MKIII clutch pedal assymbley from an MKIII supra
1jz bellhousing from a soarer (driftmotion)
1jz flywheel from a Soarer (935 motorsports)
RPS Max stage 3 clutch w/ solid hub for an MKIII supra
W58 Trans mount and crossemember
SC300 driveshaft (input shafts are the same for R154 and SC300 auto)
OEM shift boot (just get one from a lexus parts dealer or something)
MKIII master cylinder
MKIII slave cylinder
MKIII steel braided clutch line
About 8 different parts from Toyota for the T/O bearing/hub assyembley
For everthing I just listed it cost me total $2,420. Now you could probably do this swap for a 1/4 of that price. When I got the transmission, I had it fully rebuilt and those two together are about $800 from a good shop I know, and my clutch cost me $750 alone. So that right there is the major chunk of it. But I'm a believer of do it once do it right and drive it daily after.
Total time of sourcing parts and researching was about 6 months. Time of the actual swap took my bro and I about 18 hrs, with lots of goofing off and food breaks.
Here some pictures of everything you need to do to the tranny to get it ready.
Heres a pic of the R154 after I had it rebuilt
Here is a pic of the 1jz bellhousing compared to the R154, they bolt to the transmission the same, but how they bolt up the block is different.
Heres a pic of the plate that will need to switched from the original transmission.
This is the "hook" that the clutch fork is hooked to
Slave cylinder installed
Bellhousing swapped, slave cylinder installed w/ clutch fork, plate on left side on.
Starting to look like a tranny again
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Installing the clutch pedal assymbley
Here you can see up underneath the driver side panels where the cutout pattern is on the firewall. The red circle is the cutout and the arrow is pointing to 1 of 2 bolts that will need to be removed to make room for the pedal assymbly. Just follow the bar until you find the other bolt and the whole thing comes right out. Connected to the bar is the control unit for the electronic tilt on the steering column, I just removed mine and there is no affects/codes on anything. There are two plugs connected to it and are simple to remove.
Showing how restrictive the bar is, the cutout is right behind the shadow of the bar.
OK, here is where things went south and why you guys should love me if you're going to use the MKIII assymbly. The cutout is for the SC300 assymbly, the MKIII will fit this cutout, BUT it slants the whole assymbly and the clutch pedal ends up underneath your brake pedal. To get everything to bolt up/cut out right the first time, mach up your MKIII pedal assymbly using the bolt hole for the assymbly in the second picture. It is the one up underneath your dash.
You will notice after maching it up that the cutout is off, it actually needs to be cutout differently. If you are inside the vehicle looking at the stock cutout pattern, it actually needs to be rotated from about the 11:30 to the 10:20 position. While you have it mached, make your marks aligning it with the cutout for the bottom bolt hole, and you will see what I am talking about.
Now, after you have done this and done your cutout, you will notice that the outside hole(looking from inside the car) will come out where you cant access it. This pic shows you what to cut to be able to get the bolt from the master cylinder into the pedal assymbly. I used a dremel tool and after about 8 of em I got it finished. The red lines on the right show what to cut. The red half circles show where my first cutout was according the pattern on the firewall for the SC300 assymbly(top half circle), and where it actually should have been(bottom half circle).
Since nothing else has fit, the stock studs on the the master cylinder aren't long enough now to reach through on both sides to adequately secure the pedal. The longer bolt is the outside bolt.
All the hard stuff is done now, here is a couple of pics on how it looks. If you look close enough you can see that I used some adhesive weather stripping to cover the rough edges that I had cut on both the firewall and fender well. It cleans it up nice and gives it clean stock look.
Make sure you take the spacer out from behind the flex plate
Pilot bearing installed
Now for those of you that want to do this swap, make sure that you understand how this clutch goes together and how it functions.
Hub for T/O bearing together
Hub and T/O bearing installed on clutch cover
For a picture of how all of this goes together here is a good picture
Here are the part numbers you will need to assymble the hub and T/O bearing straight from Toyota, I am missing one of them and can't find the package. In between the disc and pressure plate (or clutch cover as they call it) there are 8 different parts. Like I said I only have 7 so make sure you get that other piece:
96152-00450- SNAP RING
90520-67001- SHAFT SNAP RING
90201-45023- PLATE WASHER
90201-71001- WASHER PLATE
31231-14040- CLUTCH RELEASE HUB
31264-14040- CLUTCH SNAP RING
90206-72001- WAVE WASHER
From the interior, I started cutting 2 and 3/4" forward from the OLD shift hole, and then proceeded to cut a 3"X3" hole.
Doing it like I did I got the shifter to sit like this
Other alternatives for the shifter.
*Thanks to Shern*
One of the major issues, as you mentioned, is extending the shifter location rearward to line up with the shifter boot in our SC. I know of 4 different solutions to extending the shifter back:
Just to kind of wrap up some of the myths and facts about all of this,
The MKIII pedal assymbley WILL work, but there modifications that need to be made
A W58 WILL work, but you have to use the crossmember also for simplicity, and drill out the holes where it bolts to the frame
A 1jz flywheel WILL work
A 1jz bellhousing WILL work
An MKIII stainless steel clutch line WILL work, (for length I mean)
An MKIII driveshaft WILL NOT work, it makes it too long.
You do NOT have to get different bellhousing bolts, the ones from the auto work great.
The starter WILL fit perfectly, sits in stock location and everthing.
Some things that should be mentioned. As of right now I am using the auto driveshaft from an SC300, it works ok and bolts up bolt it is slightly too short. I am going to have a custom one-piece made shortly. I lost the speedo sensor somewhere so I don't have a speedo right now and am looking for one asap but I do think that they use the same 3 pin sensor and works perfectly, I will try and confirm this whenever I get it in. The clutch I used is definately going to take some getting used to, and is the limit for daily driving for sure, but it is SO fun to drive, it feels like my own little racecar now, absolutly amazing.
So was it worth it? Total cost of swap: $2,240. Amount of cusswords: 304. Having an amazing sexy clutch and 5 speed behind a singled 2jz: priceless.
Damn, I'm not sure whether this writeup deterred me or encouraged me to do the swap lol.
It's really not all that bad. I just tried to post up as much information as I could because there are so many "well I believe this works......" and "I have heard....." I also tried to give pretty detailed information on what I did and why. Everything underneath the car is pretty straightforward, if you feel comfortable enough to change a clutch, then you could probably do this. If your the kind of guy that is patient and really looks for good deals, like I said you could do it for alot less than I did. If I had to do this again I'm sure I could do it in a day no problem. The MKIII pedal assymbley does take some patience and time though. For anyone else doing this I would highly recommend an SC300 master cylinder assymbley for ease of installation. Probably take no more than 20 minutes if you had the tools.