I have a replacement engine coming today, and will be pulling the bad one this weekend. Is it easier to pull the engine and trans as a unit on a 1992 SC300, or could I save some time by just pulling the engine?
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You might not have to take out the hood either. My mechanic pulled my with tranny (V8) in less then two hours.
* 1998 GS400 - Stock with Projector HID Fog Light made by Luxury Mods.
* 1993 SC400 - Shine Auto Body Pearl White, Twin Turbo 4.7L VVTi at work
* 1995 LS400 - 5.2L Stroker with MeisterR Coil Overs and G35 19s
* 1995 Previa - Supercharged Cargo Hauler and Lovin it!
Drain the tranny fluid! The 5-speed is not a sealed unit, but you won't realize that until the tranny is tilted with the DS out. That happened to me the first time, and tranny fluid came pouring out at the worst time.
Leave the tranny cross member support attached. It will come out through the tranny tunnel just fine. You can also leave it on when installing the motor/tranny.
When removing the motor mount bolts, also loosen the bolts on top of the motor mount. It adds "give" to the mount and makes it easier to install/remove the whole assembly
When using an engine tilt, the chain on the front should be shorter than the chain on the back. This makes the tilt less angled and easier to turn when the engine is first going in at an extreme angle (see pic above).
When installing the motor, support the tranny with an OEM jack. It allows you to slide the tail of the tranny side-to-side; this can help by walking in one mount and then the other. The jack also helps level the motor/tranny during final installation. Once leveled, the tilt can be used to angle the motor side-to-side because the lift points are diagonally opposed on the block. This can also be used to engage the motor mounts one at a time.
When using an engine tilt, you pretty much have to remove the hood. Although, I guess you could unbolt the support pistons and get more room.
I'm hoping to pull the engine and 5-spd trans as a unit -- with the hood still on the car. But first-- I have to inspect this Japanese import motor I received yesterday. Borescope down the spark plug holes to look at the piston crowns and chambers.
I'm assuming I am going to have to put a new pilot bushing in the back of the crankshaft -- as this motor has a flex plate on it. Or maybe the pilot bushing is in the flywheel itself.
Guess I'll know in a few hours.
How about the rear main seal? --- one mechanic told me these never leak on this engine, but I'm thinking it may be cheap insurance to replace it-- as long as I have the easy access to it now.
be careful taking the tranny out with the motor, basically what motorheaddown said, keep it tilted at a decent angle. When me and my friend were removing mine, we didnt have enough angle and ended up dragging the shifter on the tranny tunnel and bent it a little bit, we were able to fix it but it was still a hassle.