Curry

iTrader: (1)

EDIT
Oops, OLT you better move this. HAHA. sorry!

Ok so the motor is back together and running.

Before it used to idle at 100 @ park, reverse, neutral, 2 and L

Now it idles fine @ Park and neutral

It still idles @ 100 if I shift to drive, reverse, 2 and L

If I tap the accelerator in park like this Tap . . . Tap . . . Tap . . .
Usually on the 3rd or second tap if I continue hold the pedal the idle will drop to near 0, stutter, it wont die and the pop right back up to 1k+ depending on how hard im pressing on the pedal.

We did cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, seafoam, TB cleaning, coolant, checked all connections and vac lines.

The only thing left to do is mess with the IACV.

I'm posting to see if I may have missed anything.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

MAF...........?

Curry

iTrader: (1)

Clean it? or just toss a new one on there to test it?

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Wouldn't want you to buy one if it is not related, but MAF's act like they are good until disconnected and the computer resets the cache of info it was previously running off of. When it has to start from scratch the MAF reveals it's true colors rather than relying on cached ecu info. That's when the fun begins and we get these "all I did was disconnect my battery and my car runs like ***" threads.

It's a possiblity.........

As far as cleaning mafs..... It's the equivalent of soldering a new tip on the end of a spark plug to get rid of gap..... you get about 8 seconds of joy.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

I can borrow one from a friend or from gazi if anything, but ill try unplugging it and resetting my ECU again.

If not ill have to get that IACV off somehow and see if it needs cleaning, which im sure it does.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Resetting the ECU was the problem to begin with (if it is a MAF issue).............. not going to be a solution.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

Got ya, thanks.

Edit:

No go with that =/

Ill try to get my hands on another MAF tomorrow and see if that changes anything.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

No luck yet. I was trying to get the IACV off. BOOO.

Im gonna try another TB tomorrow instead of the MAF.

Anyone know if the IACV can be clean from inside the TB if I take it off ??

Curry

iTrader: (1)

Cleaned up the IACV this morning, no luck.

Gonna see if I can get a replacement and swap that in there.

Any other suggestions?

Curry

iTrader: (1)

Just swapped another IACV in, same exact issue. nothing changed at all. I'm gonna try swapping another MAF and ECU to see if that does it. If not, im out of ideas.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

Changed the ECU, same issues.

I forgot to mention. When I first got the car the rpm was @ 100 no matter where i shifted. Since doing the valve cover gaskets and tune up the only thing that has changed is the car idles fine in park and neutral @ around 700-800.

When shifting to drive, reverse, L or 2 it drops to 100 and sits there.

The car also has an aftermarket alarm wired in. Not sure if that could potentially cause any issues. It was there when i got the car, no remote or anything for it either.

aliga

iTrader: (147)

try swapping an entire tb, could be tps, iac??

Curry

iTrader: (1)

swapped an iac todd had. I guess i can try swapping an entire tb. If you have a spare laying around lemme know. The tps on the tb todd gave me was busted up.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

I swapped another TPS in today and I'm having the same issue. The engine sounds normal when I shift into drive but the idle is just low. For now im attributing this to the bad cluster.

The thing where the car rpms would dip after taping the accelerator a few times still happens, but not as much as before.

I'm going to see if I can get another TPS and IACV that I know works 100% and swap them on. I'm also going to try using another MAF if I can get a hold of one. Thats about all I can think of.

Gonna hook up my emanage tomorrow and see what my rpms really are reading.

Any other tips or suggestions are welcome.

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

Unplug the MAF while the car is on. See if it changes anything?