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My NA-T rebuild

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Old 01-13-08, 04:33 PM
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Dx3
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Default My NA-T rebuild

Guys,

Apparently I have everyone confused with my random threads looking for information - so to fix this, I am starting this thread. This will relate to my re-build of my car.

I purchased a 93 NA-T from a member on Clublexus. Although he doesn't come on here much anymore, I will leave his name out of it. After having a fellow CL'er check out the car for me, and tell me how strong it ran and that it was in good shape I purchased the car and had it shipped to Tulsa. As soon as the driver pulled up to my house to deliver it a week later - I realised I had made a huge mistake. Before it was even off the truck - I could see major problems the seller didn't tell me about. Needless to say, I wasn't a happy camper The seller gave me a small portion of my money back, but nowhere near enough to take care of the many problems the car had.

I got to drive the car 3 times in total for approximately 40 minutes maximum. This was about 5 months ago. After stopping at a friends house (LexusFTW) the car wouldn't ever start again. We, along with several other people, troubleshooted for days without ever being able to get it to start. After going through the wiring, it was evident that the wiring had been done by a small blind child with 1 arm. In all honesty, my 4 year old could do better. Wires were openly twisted together, not even taped. Nothing was soldered. Bare wire was sitting next to metal. In short - it was a disaster. In fact, after looking at it, a well-respected Performance shop on Clublexus didn't even want to work on it.

So, I started making plans to get the car in perfect running order. I won't go into too many details, as it is 6:30pm already, and by the time I would be done typing it would be past midnight.

Let's just say, by the time I am finished with this car, that blind child with one arm will be proud of me

First step is to replace the radiator, hoses, thermostat, O Ring and flush the system.

Second step is to replace the engine wiring harness.

Third step is to replace fender, and add the complete 97+ setup - including tails, spoiler, fogs, grill etc etc etc...

Fourth step - tutone interior.

Fifth step - wire and have the AEM tuned.

Sixth step - well damn there's so many to choose from I don't know what to do next!

I will keep updating this thread as I have new information.

Some people may know who this seller was, and as I gave my word, I will not mention his name. I would prefer no-one else did either. Thanks and stay tuned.

Jonny

Ninja Edit - this is where you give me words of encouragement before I give up and set the car on fire!
Old 01-13-08, 04:50 PM
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plex
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Good luck with the build sounds like replacing the harness will help eliminate some of the wiring issues you mentioned. I would save all the cosmetic stuff for last until the car is running properly.
Old 01-13-08, 04:58 PM
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100mgbluep
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Throw up some pics

Once you finish your rebuild we can go cruiz together
Old 01-13-08, 05:25 PM
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TroySC300
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Just focus on how happy you'll be once it's perfect. That's what works for me
Old 01-13-08, 07:42 PM
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Gunnar
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Good luck man. I know the times the car ran before and I have no doubt you'll make it run quite a bit quicker.
Old 01-13-08, 08:02 PM
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na4now
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Please post some pics. Im dieing to know which car you bought.
Old 01-13-08, 08:22 PM
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Sorry to hear about that. I'm with TROYSC300, when it is done you will have the satisfaction of knowing how far the car has come. Don't light it on fire, make the one-armed blind kid proud. Take care.
Old 01-13-08, 09:06 PM
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motorheaddown
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Jonny,

I have some unsolicited advice that could save you hours of work. Consider investing in a crimp tool and heat shrink butt connectors: http://store.nutsandbolts.com/heshbuco.html The heat shrink connectors are expensive but well worth the investment. Plus, the harness repair will take a fraction of the time versus soldering. Crimping is the prefered method of splicing wires, anyway; just ask the FAA. I also suggest staggering the splices on wire bundles for two reasons: 1) it keeps the bundle diameter to a minimum, and 2) if the insulation gets penetrated it won't short circuit to another wire.

These are things I've learned from experience. Just FYI...

-scott

Last edited by motorheaddown; 01-13-08 at 09:10 PM.
Old 01-13-08, 09:07 PM
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DJ TANTRA
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gl man =\
Old 01-14-08, 10:01 AM
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Ali SC3
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you can do eeeet!!
Old 01-14-08, 05:56 PM
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sc250tt
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Man that sucks .Hopefully when you swap out the harness problems will be a thing of the past. Why did they hack the harness if the car is a na-t in the first place
Old 01-15-08, 06:04 AM
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Thank you everyone Progress has been a little slow this week. And by slow, I mean I haven't even looked at the car

Originally Posted by sc250tt
Why did they hack the harness if the car is a na-t in the first place
AEM, DLI, fuel pumps, IAT, MAP, BC, etc etc! Had they spliced the wires correctly and kept it clean, we wouldn't, sorry, "I" wouldn't be in this mess. So for everyone doing a swap - be kind to the next owner and do it yourself, don't have the little blind kid next door with one arm come help

Jonny
Old 01-15-08, 07:06 AM
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joshthorsc
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Sorry to hear that. Hope all goes well for you. After you get it fixed, I know you will be happy boosting again.
Old 01-15-08, 10:59 AM
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Baoser
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YOU CAN DO IT!!!

im partially blind...i wear glasses, and I injured 1 arm...but still have full use of it...haha so technically im a blind kid wiht 1 arm =)
Old 01-15-08, 11:32 AM
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5sp_jzz30
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pics or ban jk


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