Toshima

First off I have a 93 sc300 5 speed, with a 140000 miles (doing a compression test tomorrow). Performance wise all I have is a intake, and centerforce stage 2 clutch. For my x-mas present my girl was going to buy me a nitrous kit. I found one from here http://www.nitrousdirect.com/importnitrouskits.html. Before I order I have a few questions.
1. Has anyone here use this kit?
2. I searched and i read mixed reviews about dry kits and wet kits. I wanted to run a 100 shot so witch kit would be better, wet?
3. Also say if I were to go turbo later on witch kit would be better?
Also any other suggestions, or thing to look out for please feel free to let me know. Thanks.

Toshima

Know one running a 100 shot in a sc300?

Gunnar

I can't remember his name but there's someone on here who has had nitrous on his SC3 for a while. From everything I've read if the motor's solid it can hold 100 shots all day. I'd suggest searching and doing your own research on it though, I don't have any personal experience with it.

Toshima

I did search but I couldnt find the answers I was looking for post above. Anyone have that kit?

UTSC300

iTrader: (4)

Well first off I wouldn't start with a 100 shot. Slowly move from a 50 and up. Wet kits give more power, and i've heard are safer. Dry kits can cause more detonation. but don't require the hookup of fuel . But that was on my Honda, Maybe the 2JZGE puts out enough fuel to compensate. I would stick with NOS brand from Holley. They have unlimited parts for kits. And when you end up going turbo I would actually turn that kit into a CO2 (carbon dioxide ) kit for your intercooler. It would work out perfect.

Rexn30

Oh, I thought wet kits were more power but hurts your motor more? Not positive tho

forcefed86

100 shot? Why waste your time. You've got one of the stoutest made engines on the market!

I've had several N20 cars and can give U any pointers U want.

First off, don't mess with dry kits if your wanting to start with a 100 shot, I'm sure you'll want to move up to something bigger one day. And why not... the motor can take it!

Some small pointers.

Run premium fuel 91-93 depending on where U live.

Retard timing 2* for every 50 hp( I alwasy 2* for every 75 hp and never had any issues) But N20 tech guys reccomend -2* per 50 hp.

Get colder range plugs. The turbo supra plugs would work excellent. NO platinum plugs!

Make sure you have enough fuel. I'd suggest a 255 intank walbro.

Some sort of knock gauge would also be a good idea just to let you know if your detonating.

Also a WB02 gauge would be a great tool for tuning.

All kits are just as compatible with a turbo as any other. Just stay with a wet kit and a fogger nozzle.


Other than that, you should be good for a 125 shot no problem. 175+ with race fuel or meth injection.

Biggest problem I've had with N20 is keep'n the bottle full... It gets expensieve!



Have fun!

Blk97SC300

iTrader: (4)

Very true- it runs out a lot faster than most people think .

I remember when I had nitrous on my sc300.. pretty fun. Nothing beats the rush of a turbo though

forcefed86

I hear that! I had to make the switch too.

UTSC300

iTrader: (4)

force fed pretty much hit everything on the head. And yes Nitrous isn't cheap. runs out hella quick ecspecially if you have a purge.

Toshima

Thanks forcefed86 I probable wont get the purge kit. But im thinking about getting the bottle heater. Its ether I get the nitrous kit now, or start buying piece for a turbo kit. If I buy the pieces for the turbo kit it might take me 2-3 months to get every thing. If I get the nitrous kits now it might take me 4 months or so to get the turbo kit piece togather.

forcefed86

Don't get me wrong N20 is fun. And if you ever go turbo in the future you can still use the N20 kit.

But the going rate for n20 here is $4 per lb. Avg fill up is $40. At 125 HP you might get 5-6 quarter good miles passes before pressure peters out. Assuming you had a bottle heater you might get 7-8 if your lucky.

So you figure 400-500 for a good kit. Then you figure all the $40 fill ups. (I had a 20lb bottle so my fill ups were $80!) I easily had a 1000+ into it by the end of the year.

Not to mention solenoids crap out on you.

Just something to consider....

UTSC300

iTrader: (4)

exactly, as much as you spend on nitrous you could easily afford on a turbo kit in no time. Thats what I found out with my civic anyway. A bottle warmer is a must , ecspecially if you plan on getting the most use out of it, I believe optimum pressure is what 1100-1300 been a while since I've been in the N2O loop. and them solenoids are pricey bout 70.00-80.00 a pop

crx378

save you money have your girl buy you a waste gate and bov instead

evileagle

Dont worry about the specific parts mentioned for the G35, such as the fuel line adapter and the pod.


Some good info for you guys interested in nitrous



I posted this as a reply for someone who wanted to know further about the right parts and setup for a nitrous system in our cars along with an estimated cost. I decided to make it a whole new thred in efforts to help out as many peeps as possible. Here's it is:


Ok, heres is MY setup along with all the parts I currently am using and where i got them from. In my opinion these are the best parts you can have to make not only a complete but a safe and reliable setup. I consider this the "RIGHT WAY" to do it.

HARDWARE

1) nitrous express kit #20923-10 ($420)
It doesnt REALLY matter what nx kit you get since most of the kits are the same just with a slight variance with fittings and what not. The only guidelines that you need to watch for are that it's for an import, with a 10lb bottle. The rest you dont have to worry about and I will show you why in a bit. Your cheapest bet is to pick up a kit on ebay. I would not suggest buying a used one. I picked up my new kit for 420 shipped, so just look around. Or you can pick one up direct from NX for about $620 shipped.

2) fuel line adapter ($55)
You will need need this so you won't have to splice into the factory fuel line. This will save you from buying a new one "just in case" something happens and you need to return the vehicle to the dealership. If they see a spliced fuel line, they will most likely give you a hard time about it and in some cases void your warentee. You can pick this up at PTP motorsports ( http://www.ptpmotorsports.com/fuliad.html )

3) 2- 5 foot -4an steel braided lines ($35)
This is optional depending on where exactly you mount your solenoids. IT would be wise to mount them somewhere close to the intake, which is where the nozzle will be. I mounted mine by the left strut tower behind the little wall. You can find these all over ebay in various sizes. You probaby want to plan ahead of time and measure exactly to see what size lines you'll need.

ACCESSORIES- You will soon come to find that most of the cost of the system actually comes from the accessories and not the original kit itself. Most of these are only accessories to the kit and are not exactly needed, but can make life easier and help out a tad.

1) Bottle opener ($125)
Its exactly what it sounds like, a bottle opener. This will prevent you from having to go to your trunk everytime to open the bottle. I personally hid my bottle in a compartment i made in the trunk. So this benefitted me greatly. Its probably something that you should get just to make life easier. Search on ebay for one of these. Make sure its a NX opener, those are the best.

2) Bottle heater ($125)
This is a rubbery strapl that gets wrapped around your bottle to heat it up and increase the pressure in the bottle, which will actually affect performance quite a bit, especially if you live in colder regions where your bottle pressure will be too low and you will yield much less results. They come with an automatic turn off sensor. When it reaches a certain temp, it turns itself off. A great investment if you ask me.

3) Purge ($100)
This is a second nitrous solenoid that releases nitrous out of the system in efforts to remove the gaseos n20 and fill the lines up with the liquid portion (which is what you want). Now i cant exactly comment on how effective this is simply because i did not see much of a difference myself. Most people install this just for the looks ( nitrous spraying out of the hood, etc,). Not something you really need.

4) Fuel Pressure Safty Switch ($45)
This is a switch that gets tapped into the fuel lines, and when too much pressure drops, the signal is then cut and disactivated the system. This is to prevent grossly lean situations which WILL cause detonation. Very good safty device for the money. Devenatly something you need.

5) Blow down tube and fitting ($50)
This is a safty tube that gets installed on your bottle in the case of nitrous discharge from the blow off cap. This will route the discharge OUT of the cabin. Most people have this on because its a requirement for some, not all, tracks. Find your local track and see if its something that is required, and make a decision based up that.

6) Slicks/drag radials ($300)
You will soon find that traction will now become an issue. On stock tires it is easy to spin both first, second, AND third. Also pretty dangerous at high speeds if you dont know what your doing. This is where drag radial/slicks come into play. What you want to do is find the smallest size rims that will clear your calipers. 16" rims should do the trick. The smaller, the lighter, the better. What seems to work great are the 300zx wheels. They are a 16x8 design which can be picked up fairly cheap. Find yourself a set of drag radials. They can very in price quite a bit depending on if you get them new or used. Some people use them a couple of times,throw them in the garage and never use them again. That would be a good situation for you to come up on. I see ALOT of these types of situations on my350Z.com . You might wanna check there to see what kinda luck you can get.

***NOTE*** There is a kit by NX called the GEN X2 kit which has all of the above minus the bottle opener. It also comes with a guage that get mounted to the bottle. This is a good idea if you are planning to get most of the above. You can pick this up at http://turboimport.com/catalog/nitrousexpress.htm for $365 shipped OR if you do not want the purge, you can get the GEN-X package for $295 shipped.


ELECTRONICS- These are the various electronic deviced that you will need to not only run, but also monitor your system. Very important.

1) Adjustable Window Switch ($49)
Probably one of the most important and best safty devices you can have. Many people swear that you dont need them; (these are the people that cry about their blown motor shortly after). Its a component that activates the nitrous only if the pre-selected RPM paramaters have been met. With the adjustable unit, you can change the ranges to whatever you want. The range that i currently use is 3000 - 6750. I can adjust in 250 rpm increments on both the high and low. Best place to get this is at www.bakerelectronix.com . Make sure to get the adjustable one and for the the 8 preset increments choose 3000,3250,3500,3750, 6250,6500,6750,& 7000.

2) TPS (throttle position sensor) ($39)
Since our cars do not have a cable linked throttle, we have to go about the factory TPS sensor to activate the system. Well if theres no throttle cable you cant use the switch NX includes in the kit. You need a sensor that will read the factory TPS when at full throttle. This sensor will then activate the nitrous system only if the parameters have been reached, in this case WOT(wide open throttle). You can also pick up this unit at www.bakerelectronix.com. Getting the adjustable unit is an option, its $10 more. You dont exactly need the adjustable unit, but its good to have. This sensor is a must in the system and adds even less room for error.

3) gauges (nitrous, fuel pressure, and an optional air fuel gauge)
You need to monitor your system to see what its doing at all times. One way to do this is via gauges. You will need a nitrous gauge, which tells your the bottle pressure from inside the cabin, so you dont have to go run to the trunk to read it; you will need a fuel pressure gauge, this is to monitor fuel pressure which is very critical in nitrous systems; and the third gauge is honestly just to fill up the third hole in the gage pod(what holds the 3 gauges in the cabin). Its not exactly accurate and isnt made for tuning, but what it can do is easily and quickly notify you of dangerously lean situations. Now when it comes to the nitrous and fuel gauge, they make them 2 different ways. One is a regular unit, and the other is called a "full-sweep". The full sweeps are much more costly, but what they do is allow you NOT to have to run either the nitrous or fuel line into the cabin. Its an electronic gauge that has a sending unit which send the data to the gauge. I reccommend spending the extra money and getting these units so you dont have to have fuel and nitrous a couple of feet away from your face Look all over ebay. The full sweep Autometer nitrous gauge should run around ($200), Full sweep Autometer Fuel gauge should be just a tad bit cheaper, and the full sweep air/fuel gauge can be picked up fairly cheap (~$50).

4) gauge pod ($55)
This is to hold the three gauges inside the cabin. There are not many companies that have a complete replacement pillar. The one i got was through intense power for $55 dollars http://store.yahoo.com/ntnsracing/infuatrpodg3.html . Nice and clean looking in our cars.



Well thats the majority of what goes on in a top notch nitrous system for these cars. If you price that out, it comes out to about $1750. not too shabby for something that can be done in less than a day and have the same potential as any turbo/supercharged system. Contrary to what many people say, who most of have no experience in the matter, running nitrous oxide CAN be very safe and if done safly and correctly will not affect reliability of the motor. Sure you may expect less life time from the motor, but that comes with ANY from of FI. This system has 3 different safety devices to ensure the nitrous will only be engages in optimal conditions.

Any more questions, feel free to ask. Happy Spraying