Boosting my 95SC4 and some other projects
11-05-07, 01:51 PM
#61
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: california
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looking on doing the same to my sc400 but i think i need to save a lot more money.. let me know how much cash u put on your beast. so i know how much to save.
11-06-07, 10:22 AM
#63
If you look at the 7th pic down, you can see the hex on the coupler.
The aluminum is very thin, and even though I tapped it, there's only like 2 threads in the aluminum. I would not trust this by itself.
KC
11-06-07, 11:10 PM
#64
Yes, massive step and really, the one I was most worried about.
You (Blizzy) specifically, may now decide to again rethink your head unit choice. Like I said, in only took about three hours to do and most of that time was being nervous about drilling the hole and figuring out that the motor had to be jacked up a little to get the pan out.
KC
You (Blizzy) specifically, may now decide to again rethink your head unit choice. Like I said, in only took about three hours to do and most of that time was being nervous about drilling the hole and figuring out that the motor had to be jacked up a little to get the pan out.
KC
Good explanation to Red Phoenix on the reason for not using the lower pan either...For sure, that is trouble waiting to happen...All gravity fed drain designs will face the same challenges to make sure that the drain point is higher than the oil level...
Regarding my post for the issues we faced with leakage, it was a major one...I lost a quart or more per week in oil due to the leaks we were experiencing, not to metion the oil stains that had to be cleaned up from the leaks...If you take a look at my most recent post showing the polished and chromed pieces that I got back, the weld points are resolved, and the welds and welding surfaces were totally clean. I also ran an extra bead along the inside edge of each drain tube to be sure that there will be no leaks...You can see here in my thread on post #951, the second pic down...https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...hlight=sc400tt You also need larger drains for turbos, that is why mine are much larger...
Ryan
Last edited by SC400TT; 11-06-07 at 11:14 PM.
11-07-07, 08:52 PM
#65
Thanks for the kind words Ryan.
For my application, I just couldn't justify removing the sub pan. With your TT setup, you must need a much larger drain capacity than me.
BTW, OMG, your car is going to be so awsome, if you ever get it done. LOL. I wish I had half you budget to work with. LOL.
KC
For my application, I just couldn't justify removing the sub pan. With your TT setup, you must need a much larger drain capacity than me.
BTW, OMG, your car is going to be so awsome, if you ever get it done. LOL. I wish I had half you budget to work with. LOL.
KC
KC: This is indeed a massive step!!! Congrats upon your dilligence and ingenity in deriving your solution, and excellent tutorial on how to get the oil drain done. What a critical thing it is to get the oil drain designed and implemented properly to make sure there is no back up into the drain line once in use.
Good explanation to Red Phoenix on the reason for not using the lower pan either...For sure, that is trouble waiting to happen...All gravity fed drain designs will face the same challenges to make sure that the drain point is higher than the oil level...
Regarding my post for the issues we faced with leakage, it was a major one...I lost a quart or more per week in oil due to the leaks we were experiencing, not to metion the oil stains that had to be cleaned up from the leaks...If you take a look at my most recent post showing the polished and chromed pieces that I got back, the weld points are resolved, and the welds and welding surfaces were totally clean. I also ran an extra bead along the inside edge of each drain tube to be sure that there will be no leaks...You can see here in my thread on post #951, the second pic down...https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...hlight=sc400tt You also need larger drains for turbos, that is why mine are much larger...
Ryan
Good explanation to Red Phoenix on the reason for not using the lower pan either...For sure, that is trouble waiting to happen...All gravity fed drain designs will face the same challenges to make sure that the drain point is higher than the oil level...
Regarding my post for the issues we faced with leakage, it was a major one...I lost a quart or more per week in oil due to the leaks we were experiencing, not to metion the oil stains that had to be cleaned up from the leaks...If you take a look at my most recent post showing the polished and chromed pieces that I got back, the weld points are resolved, and the welds and welding surfaces were totally clean. I also ran an extra bead along the inside edge of each drain tube to be sure that there will be no leaks...You can see here in my thread on post #951, the second pic down...https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...hlight=sc400tt You also need larger drains for turbos, that is why mine are much larger...
Ryan
11-07-07, 09:11 PM
#66
Guys,
Over the last couple of days I have taken possesion of some parts and I thought I'd share.
Intercooler piping. I kinda guessed at it, picked pipes individually. I'm sure some cutting and welding will be required.
Intercooler.
Bypass which will be vented to atmosphere before, and as far away from the MAF as possible.
This is the boost limiter valve I am going to try out. My only concern is that it will likely start opening before the desired pressure, unless there is some design element to prevent it. It's a pretty simple one way check valve. The "release pressure" is adjusted by turning the top threaded portion, which adds or relieves spring pressure.
More pics of valve.
Last but not least, AEM wideband.
I had purchase a cooling fan and clutch on ebay, the seller turned out to be a deadbeat. I am currently trying to re-source.
If I manage to have all the parts in hand by the weekend before Thanksgiving, I will by bolting this baby on!
KC
Over the last couple of days I have taken possesion of some parts and I thought I'd share.
Intercooler piping. I kinda guessed at it, picked pipes individually. I'm sure some cutting and welding will be required.
Intercooler.
Bypass which will be vented to atmosphere before, and as far away from the MAF as possible.
This is the boost limiter valve I am going to try out. My only concern is that it will likely start opening before the desired pressure, unless there is some design element to prevent it. It's a pretty simple one way check valve. The "release pressure" is adjusted by turning the top threaded portion, which adds or relieves spring pressure.
More pics of valve.
Last but not least, AEM wideband.
I had purchase a cooling fan and clutch on ebay, the seller turned out to be a deadbeat. I am currently trying to re-source.
If I manage to have all the parts in hand by the weekend before Thanksgiving, I will by bolting this baby on!
KC
Hopefully! I'm trying to set a new start to finish supercharger record! LOL.
11-08-07, 09:36 PM
#70
I was originally going to install the single sensor in my H-pipe but was told not to. There's not really a whole lot of flow through an H-pipe, it's more for balance. Plus, I think it would be to far away from the exhaust ports.
In the future, I may purchase another wideband unit, but for now, I'm about tapped out on cash. It would be easier to diagnose spark miss or fuel injector problems with two units. Assuming there aren't any problems with ignition or fueling, the AFR should be fairly close on both sides.
I intend on installing the sensor and wiring with enough slack to allow me to easily (in theory) change banks if I'm having any problems.
KC
11-08-07, 10:41 PM
#71
Hey KC another question, with the atmospheric bypass, you might encounter a stalling issue. have you thought about running a blow through setup? In a blow through setup you have the maf plumbed into the IC piping, and the bypass on the other side of the IC. So it would be in this order; Throttle body->maf->intercooler->bypass.
11-10-07, 10:48 PM
#72
Hey KC another question, with the atmospheric bypass, you might encounter a stalling issue. have you thought about running a blow through setup? In a blow through setup you have the maf plumbed into the IC piping, and the bypass on the other side of the IC. So it would be in this order; Throttle body->maf->intercooler->bypass.
It will be a blow through. I am looking into converting to speed density via a MAF Translator Pro or a MAP ECU.
KC
11-11-07, 07:08 AM
#73
Question.....
Installed my wideband (pics later) and at idle I am running very very lean, off the scale of the gauge, 18+ to 1. When I unplug the MAF sensor, it goes to 14.5ish to 1. When I pinch the fuel return line, the AFR goes to 15.5ish to 1.
Assuming the gauge is reading accurately, bad MAF?
Thanks,
KC
Installed my wideband (pics later) and at idle I am running very very lean, off the scale of the gauge, 18+ to 1. When I unplug the MAF sensor, it goes to 14.5ish to 1. When I pinch the fuel return line, the AFR goes to 15.5ish to 1.
Assuming the gauge is reading accurately, bad MAF?
Thanks,
KC
11-11-07, 08:30 AM
#74
I've never messed with the AEM unit, but on know on a lot of other WB02's they need to be calibrated, so check your manual.
Most cars with MAF's can be ran without it, just in case it does go bad, it doesn't leave you stranded. 18:1 sounds right for idle. My 240 runs that at idle. And I have 615cc injectors. When you drive around your AFR's will change.
Ah and to your earlier post, good stuff, be careful how you run the maf to tb, I know maf's need to be a certain distance away from the tb, or it will cause turbulence and F-up the maf reading.
Most cars with MAF's can be ran without it, just in case it does go bad, it doesn't leave you stranded. 18:1 sounds right for idle. My 240 runs that at idle. And I have 615cc injectors. When you drive around your AFR's will change.
Ah and to your earlier post, good stuff, be careful how you run the maf to tb, I know maf's need to be a certain distance away from the tb, or it will cause turbulence and F-up the maf reading.
11-11-07, 11:44 AM
#75
Question.....
Installed my wideband (pics later) and at idle I am running very very lean, off the scale of the gauge, 18+ to 1. When I unplug the MAF sensor, it goes to 14.5ish to 1. When I pinch the fuel return line, the AFR goes to 15.5ish to 1.
Assuming the gauge is reading accurately, bad MAF?
Thanks,
KC
Installed my wideband (pics later) and at idle I am running very very lean, off the scale of the gauge, 18+ to 1. When I unplug the MAF sensor, it goes to 14.5ish to 1. When I pinch the fuel return line, the AFR goes to 15.5ish to 1.
Assuming the gauge is reading accurately, bad MAF?
Thanks,
KC
Ryan