slappy96

1992 SC300 with 160K. I am the only owner..ever and I took the first step today. It all started with a compression check which was suprisingly good. All cylinders 185 or better with only about a 10psi difference. I managed to bust the coolant hose running from the splitter (by the power steering pump) to the throttle body. Needless to say you can't really replace that without taking of the entire intake manifold. So I did it. 9 hours later! I took off so damn many vacuum hoses that I don't know if I'll ever get them back on properly. I want to go ahead and replace water pump, pwr steering and probably the harmonic balancer. I have read these forums and planned for 10 months, but nothing is a substitute for actually doing it. It's super motivating, but all those vacuum lines have got me quaking in my boots when I go to put it back together. Anybody with experience or tips with the vacuum system please advise. My goal is cleaned intake plenum/manifold/throttle body/new plugs and boost logic stage 1. Oh, the oil return drilling is also the other thing that keeps me up at night. Gotta start sometime....

Toshima

Its extremly fun the first time, but can become very overwelleming if you think about it to much. All the vac lines kinda of just reach the only spot the can go to. You will see when your putting back togather. But it sounds like you are having fun and are getting ready for boost. You should also replace the head gasket, timingbelt, and spark plug wires. If they have not been changed in awhile. Good luck and have fun.

Sc dRifta

use post its to mark the spots in your manual so you can easily turn to it. have a tool box with tools nearby and space to lay down parts as you remove them so plan on using a drain box or a towl or something. i got a 3 angle valve job and mild port and polish and refresh head done for $300 if that helps. good luck btw you dont need all those vaccume hose i deleted all of mine.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

Check the underside of your hood. There's a layout of the vacuum lines there.

The Supra TSRM floating around also helps too; since you can read the sections on manifold removal and head removal and figure out what goes where by the pictures.

Gunnar

I have a blown up picture of the underhood vacuum diagram on my laptop at home from when I had my intake manifold apart. If I remember I'll upload it to Photobucket and post it for you tonight.

slappy96

A blown up picture would seriously help. I can see myself getting most everything hooked back up and have one or two completely wrong.

I think it will be a week or two (or a month depending) before I get to putting it back together. Boost Logic Stage II is on the way and I'll probably be sending them my transmission as soon as I can get the thing out. 2.5mm headgasket will take me a while. Don't think I'll be firing it back up until everything is hooked back up. I'm starting to wonder if I should just rent a hoist and take the engine out to do it all.

Also, this forum has some really great people. I appreciate the reply's am taking pictures as I go along to eventually post. I'm sure more questions will follow.

NA....................................and eventually...t

Bean

iTrader: (1)

slappy, thats what I did. Makes working on the engine a lot easier; though there are a lot of things to disconnect when pulling the motor.

Gunnar

I didn't get a chance to upload it last night. I'm trying to find it on google since that's where I originally got it from, but I'm not having any luck.

slappy96

Wow. I got an engine hoist and a stand for 100 bucks. Guy really wanted to get it off his hands (for space). Really good quality hoist. No leveler though.

Now the pickle is getting the motor mounts busted loose. Sounds like most guys do this from the bottom. I really can't get to the driver side bolt from the top.

Great tutorial on supraforums also gave me the idea to remove the engine wiring from the back of the engine bay (unhook it in the passenger side floorboard) so you don't have to disconnect everything under the intake manifold.

Any personal experiences greatly appreciated.

slappy96

Bean,
There is an assload of stuff to disconnect. The exhaust manifold was ridiculous until I decided to just unhook the downpipe and pull the thing up through the engine bay. I've got pretty much everything unhooked except the motor mounts and the trans mount/driveshaft.

Bean...you've helped me more than you know. I've read pretty much all your stuff on club na-t and it's helped me a bunch. Much appreciated.

Any points on actual engine removal or egr delete details would help me out.

Slappy

Gunnar

Search around, I don't remember if it's on here or ClubNA-T but I think michaelvanle has a writeup on deleting the EGR.

aliga

iTrader: (147)

take out the two motor mount bolts from the bottom of the crossmember. i think they are 19s.

hybridrift

^^^^^ Yup 19mm bolts remove from bottom. Disconnect the fuel line under driver side door/fender.

Tranny mount/cross member are 14mm(4 of em)

You dont 'have" to remove the drive shaft, because when you start to raise the engine, the tranny will slide right out of the drive shaft.

Remove the bumper and radiator for easier removal.


Umm, if you have anymore Q's let me know, I just swapped my 1jz so everything is fresh in my head, plus I had to take the motor out and put it in 4 times due to complications. I can swap the motor in less than 2hrs.

hybridrift

oh, and get yourself a leveler! It will make your life a million times easier. You are going to want to raise the front of the engine out first while the tranny follows. You want it to come out at like a 50 degree angle or so.

hybridrift

one more thing. raise the engine sloooowwww. Make sure you are checking that the motor mounts arent bending, because they break...easy. Driver side, make sure its clearing the steering stuff. Passenger side, nothing much to clear really, just make sure its all the way above the crossmember. (not really a big deal if you are getting new ones though)