AC conversion R12 to 134a
07-12-07, 06:58 AM
#1
AC conversion R12 to 134a
Want to convert my ac r12 to 134a.Bought the coversion for it.I have to switch the the nipple pieces.theres one acess port by the radiator (red cap) and theres one under the intake hose on the body.Which ones the high pressure side?
Ricky
Ricky
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Brownd3max (03-19-21)
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Brownd3max (03-19-21)
07-12-07, 10:03 AM
#7
R12 only damages things if released to the atmosphere, in a closed loop A/C system, not much to worry about - so long as you aren't doing it on purpose, the government has no laws against using it...
R12 is more efficient, this doesn't mean that R134 doesn't work well, as it works great, in a system designed for it... R134 systems have larger condenser and evaporator cores with smaller tube/fin designs due to it's smaller molecular size... The smaller condenser and evaporator cores run out of heat transfer capability at a certain point on every vehicle no matter R12 or 134, the problem is, putting 134 into a system designed for 12 will lower the point at which heat transfer no longer happens...
HCF134A is also smaller in molecular size than R12, which means any potential leaks that may exist will become major leaks. Also, I do not believe our hose assemblies are rated for 134 usage, so 134 may seep straight through the walls of the hoses. In addition to this, the seals and o-rings used in our cars were not designed originally for the ultra tight clearances as a newer 134 system, so you would have to replace and check all of the seals as well.
Another problem - our compressors were designed for mineral oil. The system is filled with a specific amount of mineral oil. Mineral oil is too heavy for 134 to carry throughout the system, so you must use an oil that is compatible with 134. This oil was not originally designed to be used with our compressors (though this may not be horrible), but our main problem is that the mineral oil must be drained and the substitute oil added (typically a PAG oil, however, I'd have to look up the correct substitute). Then you have to get the correct amount of oil in the system, which typically means running it a little overfilled (no way to tell how much is in the whole system for sure), which means running less refrigerant than the car calls for...
There is more, but thats the main stuff...
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07-12-07, 10:27 AM
#8
good source of info mitsuguy....i know r12 has polutants and factory system has mineral oils etc...this is why i cant really find a shop that would recharge it plus they or the tech has to have a refridgeration license..not to mention a lil more on the price for r12. the conversion has all of that stuff that reseals plus its a high mileage type, which most of our rides are..
R134 is definitely more readily available and a DIY job, if i can convert it over.
So, which is high pressure side on the sc3 ? In the front or under intake hose ?
Ricky
R134 is definitely more readily available and a DIY job, if i can convert it over.
So, which is high pressure side on the sc3 ? In the front or under intake hose ?
Ricky
07-12-07, 04:26 PM
#14
once you contaminate an A/C system, you will NEVER find anyone that will work on it without charging a huge amount to clean the system first...
a/c gauges are expensive, and you pretty much ruin a set if you introduce a mixture of gases to it, even air is harmful - it is imperative that no moisture gets in the system... if a mechanic sees that an A/C system has had anything other than R-12 or 134, 100% of the time, they will not work on it - it contaminates their stuff... we have a $1200 gas analyzer for finding this stuff out prior to working on a car...
07-12-07, 08:32 PM
#15
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Brownd3max (03-19-21)