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SC300 12v Fuel Mod w/ Pictures - FAQ

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Old 01-29-15, 05:22 PM
  #271  
t2d2
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
maybe the hose from your pump int he tank to the fitting on the top of the tank sprung a small leak?
I changed out both of the short hoses today, from the pump to the hanger and from the hanger to the hard line, and it had no effect. I was really hoping that was it, because the old hoses came off pretty easily.
Old 03-22-15, 03:00 PM
  #272  
OUChase
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Originally Posted by t2d2
I changed out both of the short hoses today, from the pump to the hanger and from the hanger to the hard line, and it had no effect. I was really hoping that was it, because the old hoses came off pretty easily.
Were you able to sort out this issue? I'm having very similar issues as you are. Thanks
Old 03-22-15, 05:22 PM
  #273  
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Originally Posted by OUChase
Were you able to sort out this issue? I'm having very similar issues as you are. Thanks
Nope. It has eluded every attempt of mine to identify the problem... Eventually, I'll have to find a Lexus expert and have them go over everything in detail.
Old 06-20-15, 04:16 AM
  #274  
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The quickest and simplest way to do this without going through all those is simply place a jumper between FP and +B on the DIAGNOSTIC PORT located inside the engine bay. The advantage of doing this is that it will allow you to easily remove the jumper if you decide to replace the Fuel Pump ECU in the future.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-the-time.html
Old 07-12-15, 08:56 AM
  #275  
SUMITRO94
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So the wires that we solder together from the ecu plug. Can we solder and heat shrink them with the wires connected straight from the fuel pump and leave the ecu unplugged?
Old 01-29-16, 04:12 PM
  #276  
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Pictures on the first page aren't loading, any suggestions anyone?
Old 01-29-16, 05:21 PM
  #277  
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Originally Posted by beenlookin
Pictures on the first page aren't loading, any suggestions anyone?
Disconnect battery.
You don't need them, take the rear seat out by lifting the front of the bottom seat fairly hard and unbolt back from the newly exposed bolts. Unclip the plastic rivets of the plastic panel on the rear drivers side. Unclip the harness of the big black box. Cut the green and red wires and solder the both wires together, both wires will be thick. You have now bypassed your voltage regulator aka fuel pump ecu, and have a solid12v circuit to the fuel pump.
Old 02-09-16, 06:20 AM
  #278  
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Originally Posted by bryan767
Disconnect battery.
You don't need them, take the rear seat out by lifting the front of the bottom seat fairly hard and unbolt back from the newly exposed bolts. Unclip the plastic rivets of the plastic panel on the rear drivers side. Unclip the harness of the big black box. Cut the green and red wires and solder the both wires together, both wires will be thick. You have now bypassed your voltage regulator aka fuel pump ecu, and have a solid12v circuit to the fuel pump.

Short and direct... I like it! LOL
Old 02-16-16, 03:14 PM
  #279  
beenlookin
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Originally Posted by bryan767
Disconnect battery.
You don't need them, take the rear seat out by lifting the front of the bottom seat fairly hard and unbolt back from the newly exposed bolts. Unclip the plastic rivets of the plastic panel on the rear drivers side. Unclip the harness of the big black box. Cut the green and red wires and solder the both wires together, both wires will be thick. You have now bypassed your voltage regulator aka fuel pump ecu, and have a solid12v circuit to the fuel pump.

Thanks.

To be clear, there are two red wires, one that is black and red and red and green. I picked the black and red

I did not solder it but it works fine with wire nuts and elec tape.... One question though, does anyone's ECU have a high pitch wine now that it has been modded? I haven't buttoned up the interior yet so the ecu is still exposed which may be the reason why. Driven it about 200 miles no problems though so thats great news!
Old 02-16-16, 04:06 PM
  #280  
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Have not heard any noises from mine.
Old 04-13-16, 11:41 PM
  #281  
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So I did the 12v mod but are we supposed to keep it plugged into the ecu afterwards and are we supposed to keep the efi relay in place from the fuse box? I ask these questions mainly because I did this mod hoping it would fix my starting issue, although I came to realize that the efi fuse 30a in my engine bay fuse box keep blowing every time I turn my key to the on position which I dont know for sure if that was happening before or not, but more than likely it was which is causing my car not to start and probably had nothing to do with the fp ecu to begin with. Anyways does anyone know the root of what the popping fuses might be? I realize this is a fairly common issue but I don't know where the o2 sensors would be burned or even really where to find out where they would be burned by the exhaust causing a short or my efi harness... Or could it have just started Happening because of this 12 v mod?
Old 04-14-16, 08:50 AM
  #282  
Ali SC3
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you can leave it unplugged since you are bypassing the ecu. blowing the EFi fuse sounds unrelated, you have some sort of electrical short somewhere most likely.
Old 04-14-16, 05:16 PM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
you can leave it unplugged since you are bypassing the ecu. blowing the EFi fuse sounds unrelated, you have some sort of electrical short somewhere most likely.
Ya I just can't seem to find anything wrong..I also took the efi relay out and it doesn't blow the fuse but when I put it back in it does... What would that mean?
Old 04-14-16, 08:05 PM
  #284  
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Originally Posted by Volume123
Ya I just can't seem to find anything wrong..I also took the efi relay out and it doesn't blow the fuse but when I put it back in it does... What would that mean?
So I just put back the 12v mod to stock and the fuse doesn't blow but my car still won't start... Could there be a short somewhere in my fuel pump?
Old 09-30-16, 10:32 PM
  #285  
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Cool ;)

Originally Posted by LEXUSver
The quickest and simplest way to do this without going through all those is simply place a jumper between FP and +B on the DIAGNOSTIC PORT located inside the engine bay. The advantage of doing this is that it will allow you to easily remove the jumper if you decide to replace the Fuel Pump ECU in the future.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-the-time.html
Can we just continue to run the car by jumping the Fp & B+ on the diagnostic connector itself (for however long we wish to do so) instead of going through the process of removing the rear seat and splicing the green & red/black wire together. I mean is there a difference in the 2... Like for instance jumping it on the diagnostic block, does that cause the pump to run even if the key is tuned to Off position? I do have a Snap-On diagnostic hand held scanner and I realize that if I would ever need to use the connector I would have to do "ECM" route by removing the back seat, so this would just be temporary...

Another thing that concerns me is that Ive equipped this car with remote start for My wife (it earned me some good time points ) and if it would still work while the key is in the off position.

I just wanna make sure cause I did this and it worked, I could also hear the pump running even with the car running at idle, and my car is loud with dual straight pipe exhaust.


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