SC300 12v Fuel Mod w/ Pictures - FAQ
#272
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Were you able to sort out this issue? I'm having very similar issues as you are. Thanks
#274
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The quickest and simplest way to do this without going through all those is simply place a jumper between FP and +B on the DIAGNOSTIC PORT located inside the engine bay. The advantage of doing this is that it will allow you to easily remove the jumper if you decide to replace the Fuel Pump ECU in the future.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-the-time.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-the-time.html
#275
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So the wires that we solder together from the ecu plug. Can we solder and heat shrink them with the wires connected straight from the fuel pump and leave the ecu unplugged?
#277
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Disconnect battery.
You don't need them, take the rear seat out by lifting the front of the bottom seat fairly hard and unbolt back from the newly exposed bolts. Unclip the plastic rivets of the plastic panel on the rear drivers side. Unclip the harness of the big black box. Cut the green and red wires and solder the both wires together, both wires will be thick. You have now bypassed your voltage regulator aka fuel pump ecu, and have a solid12v circuit to the fuel pump.
You don't need them, take the rear seat out by lifting the front of the bottom seat fairly hard and unbolt back from the newly exposed bolts. Unclip the plastic rivets of the plastic panel on the rear drivers side. Unclip the harness of the big black box. Cut the green and red wires and solder the both wires together, both wires will be thick. You have now bypassed your voltage regulator aka fuel pump ecu, and have a solid12v circuit to the fuel pump.
#278
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: South Carolina
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Disconnect battery.
You don't need them, take the rear seat out by lifting the front of the bottom seat fairly hard and unbolt back from the newly exposed bolts. Unclip the plastic rivets of the plastic panel on the rear drivers side. Unclip the harness of the big black box. Cut the green and red wires and solder the both wires together, both wires will be thick. You have now bypassed your voltage regulator aka fuel pump ecu, and have a solid12v circuit to the fuel pump.
You don't need them, take the rear seat out by lifting the front of the bottom seat fairly hard and unbolt back from the newly exposed bolts. Unclip the plastic rivets of the plastic panel on the rear drivers side. Unclip the harness of the big black box. Cut the green and red wires and solder the both wires together, both wires will be thick. You have now bypassed your voltage regulator aka fuel pump ecu, and have a solid12v circuit to the fuel pump.
Short and direct... I like it! LOL
#279
Disconnect battery.
You don't need them, take the rear seat out by lifting the front of the bottom seat fairly hard and unbolt back from the newly exposed bolts. Unclip the plastic rivets of the plastic panel on the rear drivers side. Unclip the harness of the big black box. Cut the green and red wires and solder the both wires together, both wires will be thick. You have now bypassed your voltage regulator aka fuel pump ecu, and have a solid12v circuit to the fuel pump.
You don't need them, take the rear seat out by lifting the front of the bottom seat fairly hard and unbolt back from the newly exposed bolts. Unclip the plastic rivets of the plastic panel on the rear drivers side. Unclip the harness of the big black box. Cut the green and red wires and solder the both wires together, both wires will be thick. You have now bypassed your voltage regulator aka fuel pump ecu, and have a solid12v circuit to the fuel pump.
Thanks.
To be clear, there are two red wires, one that is black and red and red and green. I picked the black and red
I did not solder it but it works fine with wire nuts and elec tape.... One question though, does anyone's ECU have a high pitch wine now that it has been modded? I haven't buttoned up the interior yet so the ecu is still exposed which may be the reason why. Driven it about 200 miles no problems though so thats great news!
#281
So I did the 12v mod but are we supposed to keep it plugged into the ecu afterwards and are we supposed to keep the efi relay in place from the fuse box? I ask these questions mainly because I did this mod hoping it would fix my starting issue, although I came to realize that the efi fuse 30a in my engine bay fuse box keep blowing every time I turn my key to the on position which I dont know for sure if that was happening before or not, but more than likely it was which is causing my car not to start and probably had nothing to do with the fp ecu to begin with. Anyways does anyone know the root of what the popping fuses might be? I realize this is a fairly common issue but I don't know where the o2 sensors would be burned or even really where to find out where they would be burned by the exhaust causing a short or my efi harness... Or could it have just started Happening because of this 12 v mod?
#283
Ya I just can't seem to find anything wrong..I also took the efi relay out and it doesn't blow the fuse but when I put it back in it does... What would that mean?
#284
So I just put back the 12v mod to stock and the fuse doesn't blow but my car still won't start... Could there be a short somewhere in my fuel pump?
#285
Driver School Candidate
;)
The quickest and simplest way to do this without going through all those is simply place a jumper between FP and +B on the DIAGNOSTIC PORT located inside the engine bay. The advantage of doing this is that it will allow you to easily remove the jumper if you decide to replace the Fuel Pump ECU in the future.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-the-time.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-the-time.html
Another thing that concerns me is that Ive equipped this car with remote start for My wife (it earned me some good time points ) and if it would still work while the key is in the off position.
I just wanna make sure cause I did this and it worked, I could also hear the pump running even with the car running at idle, and my car is loud with dual straight pipe exhaust.