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Old 05-22-09, 06:29 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by dejacky View Post
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump FTMFW. How would you guys setup your fuel pump to run a 9 volts most of the time and have it switch to preset higher voltage only when the engine needs it? I think this is a good way to minimize heating the fuel from constant fuel pump useage.
Couldnt agree with you more. The Boost a Pump on a denso is my weapon of choice. No need to heat fuel by constant circulation when you only need it about 1% of the time. I am also wiring up a Boost a spark.
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Old 05-23-09, 10:33 PM   #77
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i had to do this on my sc also because the car would die at cold starts... and if i can get it to stay on long enough to warm up it would be fine.... after a while it just completely shut off and will not start... rewired the fuel pump to bypass that ecu and everything was good again
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Old 05-24-09, 10:21 PM   #78
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is it 100% true that if you do this mod your fuel pump might not shut off with the key? i have had some issues with my battery dieing and i think this might be the problem. my car some times sits for months with no use. i think it might be draing my battery. what is the solution if it is?
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with the porsche you'll get more poon... no doubt...

the SC, you'll get no poon... something you might want to think about
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Old 06-15-09, 03:43 AM   #79
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Is this only for SC300? Or could This Apply for the SC400?
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Old 06-22-09, 03:09 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by mitsuguy View Post
crimping wires is not your best bet (please tell me no crimped wires inside the fuel tank?)

you should solder and shrink wrap...

how well does heat shrink hold up in gasoline?

also are you guys covering the stud on the denso pump after the ring is secured?
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Old 06-23-09, 02:23 AM   #81
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I believe that this is a useful mod! I'm not a big fan of walbro pumps as I have had two of my own fail in my s13. Both died after about a year of the install. I have alot of friends who have also had walbro pumps die, but they are cheap. If your pump dies it's 85 bucks to replace it. After my second walbro I put a supra TT denso pump in my s13. Nearly 4yrs later that pump is still running strong!! Skyline pumps are awesome too. If I were super concerned about my fuel system I would simply go external. Aeromotive is a great company. Holley is another, they've been around for a long time. All pumps die whether you run 6,8,9,12, or 14 volts.
I'm not gonna lie here if I needed to upgrade my pump I'd get a walbro, but I know that they are not very reliable. If I had plenty of money to spend I'd go external.
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Old 06-23-09, 04:11 AM   #82
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I believe that this is a useful mod! I'm not a big fan of walbro pumps as I have had two of my own fail in my s13. Both died after about a year of the install. I have alot of friends who have also had walbro pumps die, but they are cheap. If your pump dies it's 85 bucks to replace it. After my second walbro I put a supra TT denso pump in my s13. Nearly 4yrs later that pump is still running strong!! Skyline pumps are awesome too. If I were super concerned about my fuel system I would simply go external. Aeromotive is a great company. Holley is another, they've been around for a long time. All pumps die whether you run 6,8,9,12, or 14 volts.
I'm not gonna lie here if I needed to upgrade my pump I'd get a walbro, but I know that they are not very reliable. If I had plenty of money to spend I'd go external.
Keep in mind, an external still will require an internal pump to be in place and working, or to have a fuel cell / sumped fuel tank... Those pumps don't do so hot when forced to suction fuel... They actually perform alright, but they don't last either unless installed properly...
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Old 06-23-09, 02:50 PM   #83
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LOL does anything last! I completely understand what you're saying. Running an external pump requires alot, but when done right is the best way to go. IMO
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Old 08-21-09, 03:43 PM   #84
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Default Help- camshaft power sensor and ecu/computer

My camshaft power sensor was bad so the car wasnt starting and I just had it replaced. Now the mechanic is saying the cars computer shortcircuited....

Is he talking about the cars ECU? is the ECU different from the "fuel pump" ECU....he had mentioned something about the 12v being part of the cause of the shortage, im not sure what he meant- but someone else on the forums had told me to do the 12v mod, and so after hearing the mechanic I figured I should do the mod myself, just for reassurance....

In any case, my car cost 4 grand, and this guy is telling me it will take another 700$ to have the computer rebuilt (plus 380 for the camshaft power sensor)....i do not want to spend 1000 to fix a car, just one month after i bought, so after looking on ebay i figured i should try and replace the ECU and do it myself....is this a bad idea? can anyone provide instruction on how to go about doing that?

please dont hate, lol, im a noob- any advice anyone can give would be greatly appreciated, i love the car and hope to be able to get running nice and well all bymyself, so that i can work towards modding it into a monster
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Old 08-25-09, 08:55 AM   #85
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I will try this mod today my 1JZ start acting up again yesterday ,maybe that will fix my problem
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Old 08-25-09, 12:29 PM   #86
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i did this mod on my car and it finally started up for me with no issues.
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Old 08-28-09, 12:37 AM   #87
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I got my car back from the shop today after the ECU rebuild...and it seems like theres something with the acceleration, i have to literally like FLOOR the pedal to get the engine over like 2500 RPMS, and ive started getting a strong smell of gas when i start the car/ move it out of P- but there are no leaks, no fluids underneath the car.....the other thing is this light just popped on the in the cluster, its right above where the 2 is on the tach (lol, forgive the crude description) and its like the outline of the car from overhead with these 3 lines pointing downward from each side of the back....i thought maybe it had to do with the brake lights but they seem to be working fine....any idea what the light indicates?
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Old 11-03-09, 02:50 PM   #88
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what r the other two little wires on that plug? i just jumped the two bigger wires & deleted the ecu altogether. cause the ecu could b bad also
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Old 11-16-09, 11:18 PM   #89
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after reading this thread and being directed here from advice before I go ahead and do this on my daily driver I want to make sure I am doing it for the right reason..

My car today began to bogg out while I was hitting the gas right after I started the car and took it around the block on less than 1/4 a tank of gas (not on E) and then once I turned around and went home the problem seemed to go away.. I have also had my car die on my randomly twice in the last week while sitting at a stop light however it usually starts right up fine. Thanks for info!
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Old 11-16-09, 11:55 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by wexpac View Post
after reading this thread and being directed here from advice before I go ahead and do this on my daily driver I want to make sure I am doing it for the right reason..

My car today began to bogg out while I was hitting the gas right after I started the car and took it around the block on less than 1/4 a tank of gas (not on E) and then once I turned around and went home the problem seemed to go away.. I have also had my car die on my randomly twice in the last week while sitting at a stop light however it usually starts right up fine. Thanks for info!
maybe, maybe not... honestly, it doesn't sound like it, but it could be a fault in that ecu too...

other potential issues include the throttle position sensor, the idle air valve, mass air flow sensor, fuel pump, amongst others... there are ways to tell which it is, but most are too lengthy to type out here... this is a reversible mod, so, you could do it, and if it solves it, great, and if not, then you could always put it back...
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12v, 1998, bypass, ecu, fuel, lexus, line, mod, number, part, pump, sc300, sputtering, walbro, wire

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