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A/C quit working, just in time for summer :(

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Old 04-23-07, 07:34 PM
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Y-SC
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Default A/C quit working, just in time for summer :(

Hi,

My A/C finally decided to quit this weekend. It was not blowing very cold last summer but was still acceptable. Now it's blowing hot air. There is no warning signs on the dash and the A/C buttom is lit when I press it and not blinking like some other members having trouble with the compressor. So is it a safe assumption that my compressor is OK and all I need is just to recharge the freon? My car is 92 SC400 and I don't think the A/C has been recharged before.

Also, I am licensed to handle freon (work related) and was able to locate a few 12 oz cans from a local source. My second question is how many cans do I need and how do I know the recharge is completed. I have heard other members talking about a small indicating window on the A/C system where you can monitor the progress of the recharge by observing bubbles through the window but I was not able to find the window on my car. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Frank
Old 04-23-07, 08:18 PM
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vg7z
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On the cans they usually have a gauge with a color zone that will tell you when its full or whether its empty.
Old 04-23-07, 09:18 PM
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Y-SC
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Thanks, man. But how many 12 oz cans do I need? The guy is pressing me to buy 5 cans or more but I don't want to buy 5 cans and find out I only need one. Anyone with hands-on experince can tell me what is the "freon capacity" of a 92 SC400? Thanks again.
Old 04-23-07, 09:50 PM
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MJHSC400
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You have a license- So why the heck are you not using 406A????????

FAR less expensive-- As a matter of fact I would love if you could help me purchase some 406a as I'm having the same problem --

I've got gauges -- I just need a can tap so I can charge it back up--

406a is a direct replacement for R12 yet costs about what R134 does--

Where to buy 406a--
http://www.refrigerantsales.com/autofrost.html

Information-- http://www.yarchive.net/ac/r406a.html


The BEST place to buy A/C system components, IE: driers, compressors, seals, etc-- http://ackits.com/

Here's a quote about R406A taken from the listed info site:
A ternary blend of HCFC-22, HCFC-142b (chlorodifluoroethane), and
small amount of R-600a (isobutane) has been found to provide acceptable
operation on several automobile airconditioning systems designed for use
with CFC-12. Some capacity increase has been noted in most systems, probably
from the blend being non-azeotropic, leading to better utilization of the
condenser and evaporator [1]. This blend features 95% less ozone depletion
potential (ODP) than does CFC-12 (ODP of 0.05 vs CFC-12 with ODP 1.0).
This blend is 55% HCFC-22, 37% HCFC-142b, and 8% isobutane by weight and is
compatible with mineral oils currently used in CFC-12 systems.
Old 04-24-07, 10:29 AM
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You shouldn't need more than 2 pounds. It will be written on the sticker under the hood, or in the owners manual.
Old 04-24-07, 11:58 AM
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1jhazzard
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not to hijack. but i have a 93 sc3 and my ac is out too. these cars i dont assume run off of r134a so what kind of refridgerant do they use. can i do a recharge myself. my car has the 1jz swap done so is there anything with that that would be different.
Old 04-24-07, 12:08 PM
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mkorsu
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Filled mine last year with R134. Should take no more than 1 to 1.5 12oz cans.
Old 04-24-07, 04:00 PM
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mwwfla
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My ac stopped working and wer charged it with one can of the specified freon and my ac worked for a minute and then quit. Does the ac light always blink if somethings wrong with the compressor?
Old 04-25-07, 10:18 AM
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Y-SC
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I have the same question and would greatly appreciate it if someone with hands-on experience can share their experience. I pressed the A/C button this morning and does not feel the A/C kick in or anything mechanical engaging at all. The car feels absolutely the same although the A/C button is well lit and not blinking at all. Is it caused by compressor failure or freon depletion?
Thanks.
Old 04-25-07, 11:29 AM
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MJHSC400
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The refrigerant leaks out-- the lo pressure switch on the compress. engages-- so the comp won't kick in due to a leak dropping the pressure low enough to kill the compressor if it ran--

You've got a leak in short--

NOTE:
It is always necessary to disassemble the entire system and clean with denatured alcohol to remove the old mineral oil before introducting pag or ester oil into the compressor and system along with R134a-- This includes flushing the compressor-- which is most easily done by disassembling it --


BTW: NEVER EVER drop R134 in on top of R12 -- It's known as black death -- It will kill your compressor and you will then know what a mess really is--
Old 04-25-07, 03:17 PM
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You the man, MJH. Thanks.
Old 04-25-07, 06:56 PM
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I forgot to mention you need to pull a 29 in Hg Vacuum for about 45 min after you reassemble the system to check for leaks and evacuate all the moisture--

AND -- you always need to replace the drier when you open the system-- ackits should have them for about $20~ though-- not bad at all--

look here for reputable ac information--

ackits.com/forums --

All you could ever stand to learn about auto a/c systems-- PLUS very good prices on a/c stuff-- seals, compressors, evaporators, condensers, driers-- etc... etc.... vacuum pumps-- all that stuff--
Old 05-03-07, 09:46 PM
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MJHSC400
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No input ?? I really want to get my hands on some 406a -- so much cheaper to leak test your system that way-- waaaaaaay cheaper- No more $50 top offs just to find it all leaked out the next week--

Also called autofrost--
Old 05-03-07, 10:28 PM
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my ac leaked as well.. a tiny hole in the pipe..
Old 05-04-07, 05:45 PM
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Precisely why we need someone with a license to help us get some 406A -- it's much better to use than freeze-12, by a long shot, and is environmentally friendly --

Any help?? The stuff is worth buying as it's about the price of R134a but cools better than R12 --


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