4urxtc

iTrader: (2)

delete thread!!!!!!!!!!

Joey-E

iTrader: (1)

Congrats man, hopefully you get the issue solved soon. I remember seeing your car on Craigslist off and on. I say dont give up and hang in there

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

None of the wiring from the engine to the ecu was messed with in your harness, just the stuff to the body. I may have pinned that cam sensor backwards not paying attention while we were conversing. Are you finally getting all your dummy lights? How's the temp reading? And is the trans light still flashing?

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Why'd you buy a mk3 ecu? You get a new jumper harness?

4urxtc

iTrader: (2)

So, the update is no engine light, trans light still blinks, temps read fine the whole time. Also, was just saying somewhere the 1st cam sensor is getting a bad reading. The pins are fine I switched the. After you and I spoke the the last time. So the only thing I guess to ask is there a trigger or something inside the valve cover that translates what the cam is doing to the cam sensor? The sensor is brand new also. The other question would be could it still be ecu. Even though I have two of them and it doesnt effect results with running either? It's just weird that as soon as I plug cam 1 in it floods and shuts down. Unplugged though it runs fine. Anyway, as of now it runs but I want to sort out the cam sensor 1 issue.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Your temp always read super low iirc. Was wondering if it reads normal now since they had an alternator wire tapped into it. Again, why did you buy a jza70 (mk3 ecu) ? And are you using the jumper harness or not? Because I'm trying to remember if I bypassed the internal relay circuit by tying igsw/mrel together when originally troubleshooting. If you're getting no cel with and without jumperharness I'd say you have chassis harness problems like I said earlier since you confirmed the bulb was good from recollection. We know for a fact all of your ecu's are good, even the one I ran the wire on to bypass the burnt portion of the board as they all fired my sc, and they all triggered mrel on the cressida

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Starting to think you're having trigger wheel issues on the crank. I still owe you the front main seal job. And I have access to the crank bolt tool and **** now.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

cam trigger is just a tooth on the cam, that shouldn't be the issue.
make sure the wires on the cam sensor are in the same arrangement as the other one, the polarity does matter.

when you pull one of the cam sensors on a JZ motor with 2 cam sensors (vvti has only 1), it will usually be able to run the car for the most part but may revert to wasted spark ignition and trip a code. running on one cam sensor is a safety feature built into the ecu's. I am pretty sure it can still do sequential injection, but the 1jz uses batch fire anyways so It wouldn't make much of a difference unplugging one of the sensors, but it does seem odd that it doesn't throw a code for the unplugged cam sensor. I would double check the polarity and the ecu and confirm that the pin for IGF is firmly seated in the ecu connector.

also how did he check the cam sensor to know its good, I wouldn't go off a resistance check or anything like that, in your case the first thing I would do is swap the working one with the non working one, if the car doesn't run you know your new sensor is bad. if you haven't done it yet I would new parts can be bad on arrival it does happen especially when its just a magnet on a plastic piece that is very sensitive.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

it's not that it doesn't throw a code, it's not regestering on the dashboard. The cel never worked in his car. One of the 1st things I did iirc is to bypass the circuit in the ecu for igsw to mrel, because I've seen that part fail on an ecu and it won't turn on the main relay. Since he wasn't getting a cel (later I find out it never worked) I decided to tie igsw with mrel which turns the main relay on at key on in case the ecu part that does that is bad. still no start. I'm wondering if I didn't reverse that in the jumper harness beacuse doing so, at least on a 1j vvti ecu, makes the car start/run fine but will not emit a cel anymore at key on.

Matt: put the ecu in without the jumper harness in and confirm there is no cel at key on. Then I need you to swap one of the bulbs from a known good dummy light say oil pressure, whatever, into the cel spot, and the cel bulb into the spot where the known good bulb was. Confirm what lights you have now. 100% the cel is wired correctly now, so if it doesn't light up you have other issues. If it does then you have new avenues to check.


So you actually changed cam sensors, not just the clips?

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

it's not that it doesn't throw a code, it's not regestering on the dashboard. The cel never worked in his car. One of the 1st things I did iirc is to bypass the circuit in the ecu for igsw to mrel, because I've seen that part fail on an ecu and it won't turn on the main relay. Since he wasn't getting a cel (later I find out it never worked) I decided to tie igsw with mrel which turns the main relay on at key on in case the ecu part that does that is bad. still no start. I'm wondering if I didn't reverse that in the jumper harness beacuse doing so, at least on a 1j vvti ecu, makes the car start/run fine but will not emit a cel anymore at key on.

Matt: put the ecu in without the jumper harness in and confirm there is no cel at key on. Then I need you to swap one of the bulbs from a known good dummy light say oil pressure, whatever, into the cel spot, and the cel bulb into the spot where the known good bulb was. Confirm what lights you have now. 100% the cel is wired correctly now, so if it doesn't light up you have other issues. If it does then you have new avenues to check.


So you actually changed cam sensors, not just the clips?

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

So did you confirm the bulb for the cel works? Have you seen the light?

4urxtc

iTrader: (2)

I will be trying this out tomorrow or Thursday. I just got back in town so I will be testing this all out to give you reference. I had that ECU when we first had the issue remember I bought it and tried it out. I have only ever had the two ecu's. As far as testing I had it hooked up to the harness and then hooked it to the jumper. I didnt notice any difference but as far as the engine light goes for reading codes not sure if the jumper or straight to the harness is any different. I will check that also. I will also move a known working bulb to the engine light and check that again just to be safe. If anything it is something I can sort through. I have checked the engine crank timing gear behind the crank shaft sensor, It rotates with no issues. My cam sensors are new both of them. The wires are the same so polarity is the same on both cam sensors. Anyway, will look into more of the suggestions you have made. Thanks again, sorry for the late response.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

The gear on the crank turns no doubt, but there's a trigger wheel pressed on to the back of the crank cog that can come loose and cause issues and you having a known leak in that area can't help. Its also something you prob cant see. It was just a thought. But you definitely need to confirm the CEL first. And that ecu you have is jzx90 not mk3. Try ecu without jumper harness.