94lex83457

So, i've had a couple hairline cracks in my radiator, but until today it has never been an issue. Today I changed the oil, and had the car on jackstands and when I finished left for work. About halfway there I noticed the temp needle just under the red bar. Thankfully it never got to the red bar, but it came way, way to close. When I got to work, there was a little steam billowing out of the hood. Thankfully a friend went to an auto parts store and bought me some JB weld, and some sort of epoxy, polymercaptan blend, (I think it is similar to JB stik). I applied it at work, and let it cure for two hours. It worked fine until about half a block from my house when the needle began to climb, but got home in time. I checked out the seal, and it looked and felt alright. I have scheduled an apointment wednesday to have my radiator replaced. I'm looking at about $350 including labor.

Did my oil change and having the front end raised cause the problem or did the radiator just quit? How well does JB stik, or JB weld work, and how long does it last? Since my temp still began to climb after about 3-5 miles do I have an air bubble, or is my temporary fix...too temporary? Should I expect any damage from having my engine running at high, but not overheating temps, (the engine does have 221000 miles)? And the least of my concerns, is the price I am quoted, *which is with a plastic, not metal radiator* fair?

bigmalik00

plenty of miles.... did you check the thermostat? is it a OEM one? that was the culprit of my overheating.

BLK13X

Check your radiator top tank (mine had eroded on both of them), water pump and (more obviously) a screwed drive belt or front bearings (which could cause the drive belt to rub against the faulty bearings and snap... like on my old Soarer )

94lex83457

I know my tensioner bearing is shot, and it squeals like crazy when it is cold, but it hasn't made a peep in a couple weeks. What do I need to look for in the water pump and thermostat?

TMaxxTim

get the engine warm and take the thermostat out, or just take it out and put it in some boiling water, and make sure it opens, then you'll know its good. But if you have it out you might as well replace it as it's only a $10 part. I blew a HG on my 300 because of a bad thermostat.

DIrEctQL

Put coolant in (never use green in SC). Turn it on. See from where it's leaking. If it's getting foggy inside the car then perhaps you blew a heater core which is a common thing in SC.

Chris

94lex83457

I've ruled out a water pump, and took the car around the block. The epoxy polymercaptan began to melt, and steam started shooting out of the cracks. It also appears there are more cracks along the top radiator section.

I know what a thermostat looks like, but where the hell is it? Does it not follow the top rad hose back to the engine? The BHG issue is my primary concern.

Right now I have Prestone 50/50 and it is green. I also had some radiator repair fluid, which seems to have done diddly. Why no green coolant?

DIrEctQL

Green coolant is more corrosive. Toyota uses red.

Chris

TMaxxTim

If you have a 300 the thermostat is to the left of the engine below the distributor.

94lex83457

ah good to know. I'll check the thermostat today, and i'll use toyota red coolant in the new radiator.

Thanks for all the help, this is why I love CL.