I dare you to figure this one out.........
02-11-07, 10:46 AM
#31
Alright, I have it.
The PS fluid is entering the intake and running back through the throttle body into and onto the airbox and down the intake tube nearly to the MAF.
The air control valve appears to be allowing this to happen so after it goes up about ten degrees outside (BRRRR) I'll go back out there and figure it out.
Anyone with poor idle that has already been through every avenue might want to check the air control valve on the side of the PS pump. It has two vac lines and one of them goes directly to the intake. It's that small single hose going dead center in the front of the intake at the top of the engine under the lexus symbol.
The PS fluid is entering the intake and running back through the throttle body into and onto the airbox and down the intake tube nearly to the MAF.
The air control valve appears to be allowing this to happen so after it goes up about ten degrees outside (BRRRR) I'll go back out there and figure it out.
Anyone with poor idle that has already been through every avenue might want to check the air control valve on the side of the PS pump. It has two vac lines and one of them goes directly to the intake. It's that small single hose going dead center in the front of the intake at the top of the engine under the lexus symbol.
fluid will run out. Time to go clean out the throttlebody too. Sorry B
I missed this post before. (that switch ain't cheap, hold your bottom)
Off topic.. I got the humpty thing ... LOL. I'm really not into rap but
digital underground was great, lyrics were always funny, no hateing.
02-11-07, 05:15 PM
#32
02-13-07, 03:19 PM
#36
Driver School Candidate
Foaming at the mouth?
Odd, I've had three eclipses that started doing that..first was my 97 gsx..that one got a brand new pump under warranty. 2nd and third were both of my 1990 GSX's. Seems to only happen when it is really cold too. Fill it up full and it spits back out..sometimes randomly. I'm thinking I have a seal in the rack that sucks air when cold..so as the pump is sucking fluid out of the rack (and it does actually suck, it isn't just residual pressure pushing it back into the return, although that is most of the return pressure), and air is being mixed in with it. The fluid gets aireated and being cold, the small bubbles can't get out of the fluid very fast. Since air does take up space, the reservior overflows until the leak gets sealed up by heat expansion, and then it will settle down and play nice, let you refill it and everything will be fine until the next time it gets cold.. I would bet that if you left this until summer, it wouldn't foam up at all.
Even a pinhole somewhere is enough to cause this. I thought my power steering pump was running backwards the first time I saw this..even the dealership hadn't seen anything like it (when my 97 only had 6k miles on it this happened). For me, changing the pump worked on the 97, and I just live with it in the 90's as they're both winter beaters now. Both pumps are noisy and growl like hell when cold, and they foam just like that..when warm, they play nice..
I'd be looking for a pinhole leak in the rack or the suction side. However, a friend mentioned some internal pressure relief valve inside the pump might be responsible..as it could let air in somehow?
Dave
Even a pinhole somewhere is enough to cause this. I thought my power steering pump was running backwards the first time I saw this..even the dealership hadn't seen anything like it (when my 97 only had 6k miles on it this happened). For me, changing the pump worked on the 97, and I just live with it in the 90's as they're both winter beaters now. Both pumps are noisy and growl like hell when cold, and they foam just like that..when warm, they play nice..
I'd be looking for a pinhole leak in the rack or the suction side. However, a friend mentioned some internal pressure relief valve inside the pump might be responsible..as it could let air in somehow?
Dave
02-13-07, 05:51 PM
#37
im not sure if u fixed your car yet or not but a test we do where i work is poke a hole in the tie rod boots with a small pick, which will not hurt it, and if fluid leaks out your seals(rack) are bad since fluid shouldnt leak out if the seals are good im sure you already now but all that foam is from air in the system
02-17-07, 08:43 PM
#40
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im not sure if u fixed your car yet or not but a test we do where i work is poke a hole in the tie rod boots with a small pick, which will not hurt it, and if fluid leaks out your seals(rack) are bad since fluid shouldnt leak out if the seals are good im sure you already now but all that foam is from air in the system
Yup, we do that at my school also, very good way to check.
02-23-07, 04:16 PM
#41
Keeper of the light
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
OOOOOOOOKKKKK. Here's the fun I have had...
Going on advice from our resident mechanic moderator, I removed the vacuum lines and plugged them leaving only the outlets from the valve on the PS pump open to check for leaking.
Obviously, as we know, it was leaking. The vacuum lines give the system power assist at low rpm (intake sucks air, opens valve, provides more fluid flow). Well my valve was obviously locked WIDE OPEN because I noticed no difference when I removed the vacuum lines. Without that valve, you get full flow of fluid at both high and low RPM. Basically you have superman steering at 80 mph
Well, I know how to drive so I don't need the safety net. I'm capable of changing lanes without the urge to yank the wheel over hard left to merge into traffic.
This is not a needed feature to me.
SO... with this part costing nearly two arms and one leg.... here's how I fixed it
(you knew this was coming)
I took $3.24 to Ace Hardware and bought one automotive drain plug with the threads being (M14 1.50 pitch). Then I bought one rubber stopper in the smallest size they had.
See below. (original valve on bottom)
Going on advice from our resident mechanic moderator, I removed the vacuum lines and plugged them leaving only the outlets from the valve on the PS pump open to check for leaking.
Obviously, as we know, it was leaking. The vacuum lines give the system power assist at low rpm (intake sucks air, opens valve, provides more fluid flow). Well my valve was obviously locked WIDE OPEN because I noticed no difference when I removed the vacuum lines. Without that valve, you get full flow of fluid at both high and low RPM. Basically you have superman steering at 80 mph
Well, I know how to drive so I don't need the safety net. I'm capable of changing lanes without the urge to yank the wheel over hard left to merge into traffic.
This is not a needed feature to me.SO... with this part costing nearly two arms and one leg.... here's how I fixed it
(you knew this was coming)I took $3.24 to Ace Hardware and bought one automotive drain plug with the threads being (M14 1.50 pitch). Then I bought one rubber stopper in the smallest size they had.
See below. (original valve on bottom)