DIY 1992 SC400 Alternator Rebuild--
03-06-12, 07:28 PM
#31
The rear bearing is prone to failure, and the condition of the copper rings of the rotor has to be in specs. The stator windings have to be inspected for over heating and being shorted to ground. The rotor windings may be shorted to ground and have to be tested to within 3-7 amp. specs. I the stator is bad it takes spec. tools to remove the rear housing and to remove and install the stator. I always use a new regulator as well.
07-18-12, 07:01 AM
#32
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'92 sc400 alternator
There you have it, a $75 rebuild, I did the labor, and it's back in proper working condition ready to go wherever I want again. WHEW!!
After 35 minutes the alternator was back in and serpentine belt was back in place.
I fired her up and it works perfectly.
No more dimming lights at idle, the blower runs at max speed at idle and doesn't speed up when I rev the motor a bit anymore, showiing that the alt. is producing enough amperage/voltage now to run all the accessories at idle--
When you put the alternator back in , you should detach the alt. wiring harness that includes the positive wire and the wires to the plug on the back of the alternator... This will allow you to have a great deal more length to work with when reconnecting the terminal and plug to the alternator prior to re-installation. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get in there, and you detach the wiring harness where a clip/holder is wrapped around it securing it to the car just under the MAF sensor on the fender well. Doing this gives you 18" of length extra and makes it much easier, though I doubt it's possible without doing this step at all. It is also impossible to remove/install the alternator without unbolting the two p/s hoses parallel to the swaybar from their mounts-- one is attached to the rack/bushing clamp on the pass. side of the steering rack and both are loosened with a 10mm socket fairly easily.
It's not so bad if you do these steps, and the serpentine belt has a trick of it's own to install/remove it.
To install/remove the serpentine belt, you just depress the tensioner arm (spring loaded) very firmly downward while slipping the belt off the topmost pulley on the right, which I believe is just an idler, and when you reinstall, you just route the belt around all the pulleys properly except for the topmost right side idler, and once you've got the belt pulled over the tensioner pulley, which will take a bit of strength and work to push the tensioner arm down enough to slip it over, you can then push down very firmly again on the tensioner arm while pulling up very firmly on the belt and slipping it over the last idler pulley (topmost right one-- again) and you're done.
This belt removal only takes 5 minutes and is ingeniously designed. My particular belt looked ready for another 50k but I may just wait til it breaks, and keep a replacement in the trunk-- or maybe I'll be not-lazy and just replace it in a week or two.
I hope this writeup helps anybody that needs it and feel free to pm with questions.
Later,
Matt
After 35 minutes the alternator was back in and serpentine belt was back in place.
I fired her up and it works perfectly.
No more dimming lights at idle, the blower runs at max speed at idle and doesn't speed up when I rev the motor a bit anymore, showiing that the alt. is producing enough amperage/voltage now to run all the accessories at idle--
When you put the alternator back in , you should detach the alt. wiring harness that includes the positive wire and the wires to the plug on the back of the alternator... This will allow you to have a great deal more length to work with when reconnecting the terminal and plug to the alternator prior to re-installation. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get in there, and you detach the wiring harness where a clip/holder is wrapped around it securing it to the car just under the MAF sensor on the fender well. Doing this gives you 18" of length extra and makes it much easier, though I doubt it's possible without doing this step at all. It is also impossible to remove/install the alternator without unbolting the two p/s hoses parallel to the swaybar from their mounts-- one is attached to the rack/bushing clamp on the pass. side of the steering rack and both are loosened with a 10mm socket fairly easily.
It's not so bad if you do these steps, and the serpentine belt has a trick of it's own to install/remove it.
To install/remove the serpentine belt, you just depress the tensioner arm (spring loaded) very firmly downward while slipping the belt off the topmost pulley on the right, which I believe is just an idler, and when you reinstall, you just route the belt around all the pulleys properly except for the topmost right side idler, and once you've got the belt pulled over the tensioner pulley, which will take a bit of strength and work to push the tensioner arm down enough to slip it over, you can then push down very firmly again on the tensioner arm while pulling up very firmly on the belt and slipping it over the last idler pulley (topmost right one-- again) and you're done.
This belt removal only takes 5 minutes and is ingeniously designed. My particular belt looked ready for another 50k but I may just wait til it breaks, and keep a replacement in the trunk-- or maybe I'll be not-lazy and just replace it in a week or two.
I hope this writeup helps anybody that needs it and feel free to pm with questions.
Later,
Matt
01-02-13, 02:07 PM
#33
Driver School Candidate
amp rating?
I have been to 2 different part shops already and neither can tell me what amp alternator i need to buy for my 92 sc400. Much appreciation for any help guys.
Thank you.
Thank you.
01-10-13, 07:13 AM
#34
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alternator, belt, cross, diy, instructions, lexus, rebuild, rebuilding, reference, replace, rotor, sc400, sc430, serpentine, shaft
